nihtila

Sounds very familiar to my issue earlier in the year, barely noticeable difference in driving. Never updated my case but the turbo was indeed replaced in the summer; no tricks mentioned here or elsewhere found after hours and days of Googling helped. Was around £1250 in a small garage in Edinburgh. Was rather ****ed off (and still am if I think about it), 65 plate and around 25k miles. But **** happens I guess, at least now I remember to do some spirited driving every now and then. Still not much miles coming though, especially given the situation in the country now. Repair bills like that hurt but I'm a bit surprised Skoda are offering you even 65% so I'd just take it and take the hit. Of course you can try some tricks suggested here but it may be the case that it works for a while and then the same again as seen here, and then Skoda not offering anything anymore.

Just a small update from my side. I checked the actuator arm and it feels completely stuck, I cannot move it by hand. Also it doesn't move when turning the engine on/off or throttling. So I will try lubricant if it helps. Given it feels completely stuck I don't have high hopes.. or even if it works, for how long time. Anyway, useful data to have and hopefully it means someone could just fix/change the actuator instead of the whole turbo.

Yes I did clear that HVAC fault and another related to CAN gateway from April. At least they didn't come back after the first drive. And thanks for the VW specialist info. That's useful as I don't really know such places here. I can try contacting them with the turbo fault info if it doesn't go away and ask what they think. As you mentioned software update.. When Googling I remember seeing something related to a 1.2 turbo issue also in some older software version. Probably not a solution but could try to find something or does it ring a bell?

That's what I thought after browsing more that night. Interesting though that our VW code was the same but OBD code different.. HVAC was as follows, and had happened before any of these turbo codes. 590081 - Control Circuit for A/C Compressor B10A9 11 [012] - Short to Ground Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 57 Mileage: 40323 km Date: 2020.06.25 Time: 15:44:11 Compressor shut-off requirement: Compressor activation: malfunction in activation path Compressor current: actual value: 1.275 mA Compressor current: specified value: 0.000 mA Voltage terminal 30: 13.3 V Didn't do any Googling on that. Will see if it comes back.

Thanks for all your input, we're learning.. So, for someone who doesn't know anything what he's doing is it ok to go there spraying that stuff and moving that rod by hand? If I find the right place. Although not sure my fault is the same as the code is slightly different and it does run normally, at least for now. The quote I got was £1230 (so a bit less than original guestimate of £1400) including turbo 'remanufactured unit', oil feed pipe, oil filter, oil, and work.

That's disappointing to hear the issue is back and worse 😞 Also went for a spirited drive last night again after clearing the fault. Unfortunately the light still comes back after these trials. So we'll see how it develops.. still works normally but of course the light on your dashboard doesn't exactly give confidence. Quite disappointed as well.. This is actually my first car I bought a year ago although have had licence for 15+ years (so needed to learn to drive again, also as I come from a right-hand side driving country). I knew mileage would be low as we cannot commute by car, and quite frankly I don't want to depend on a car. But it's quite crap that you just cannot have a car for occasional use as it breaks down for not getting enough mileage, as I now keep reading more and more regarding different possible issues. Need to change a battery to a 3yr old car was a bit disappointing, but changing a turbo would be way more than "a bit" disappointing. But let's see. If it continues could still try to find a specialist and give the information I have and ask if they want to check other alternatives than changing the whole thing. I'm an engineer but in electronics and unfortunately cannot do a thing with cars.

Or is this number just referring to where the fault is, and code is P334B? In which case it is different.

So nothing was done at garage at this point, they just cleared the codes - but lights came back immediately. Haven't been driving much but went twice for an evening ride using higher revs etc. All seems to be working normally. I just got VCDS today. All this is new to me so don't really understand much.. Read the codes and the engine code (there was also a fault in HVAC and CAN) is indeed the same as yours, 16434 - Charge pressure control actuator. I guess I will clear the codes and go for a ride and see if they come back. If yes, try repeating some spirited driving and try again, and hope they would eventually stay off. If not.. I don't know yet.. In case someone understands more, and for archiving, here is what it reads: 1 Fault Found: 16434 - Charge Pressure Control Actuator P334B 00 [237] - Mechanical Malfunction MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 3 Mileage: 40348 km Date: 2020.07.02 Time: 09:16:04 Engine speed: 996.00 /min Normed load value: 52.9 % Vehicle speed: 0 km/h Coolant temperature: 61 °C Intake air temperature: 22 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 11.520 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Charge pressure actuator: specified position: 140.00 % Bypass valve f high press turboch turbine inlet: actual value: 94.98 % Charge pressure actuator: adaptation for lower stop: 2912.8 mV Bypass valve for high press turbocharger turbine inlet: status-Bits 0-7: 0 Bypass valve for high press turbocharger turbine inlet: status-Bits 0-7: 0 Bypass valve for high press turbocharger turbine inlet: status-Bits 0-7: 0 Bypass valve for high press turbocharger turbine inlet: status-Bits 0-7: 55 Bypass valve for high press turboch turbine inlet: uncond volt: 2749.6 mV Charge air pressure: actual value: 975.78 hPa

Wow, this is quite a match. I've got a 65 plate mk3 Fabia with 25k. A few days ago EPC light came on, along with start-stop error. I don't have error code reader, but today my partner took the car to (independent) garage. On the way also engine light came on. The car seems to behave normally otherwise. We've driven a few small rounds since the light show and EPC does come on every time; didn't dare to go on bypass or so not knowing what's the problem. So the car is at the garage as we speak. They just called, saying about turbo issue. Said it seems to work so they don't know if it's a sensor or other milder issue, or something worse, and that would be up to us if we want to fix it (so not pushing too much). We're waiting for more information but they guestimated the fix is replacing the turbo and cost in the £1400 ballpark. As mentioned here as well, my driving style is also very fuel economical with low revs. And also we use the car very little; did only 3k miles in the year we've had it now. And recently even a lot less due to lockdown. So I will definitely need to try these tricks mentioned here before giving a green light for a new turbo. Even if it doesn't help, could still try to find another opinion if there are cheaper ways than replacing the whole unit. I just don't know much about car tech so cannot argue much. Btw, the garage said start-stop error comes with EPC light and doesn't necessary tell anything about fault in the start-stop system, just that it is disabled. Not sure this is true? We did have a battery issue in the car a few months ago, and indeed that didn't cause the error but just a symbol that start-stop was disabled. Battery was replaced back then and it has been fine since.