Superbsport

Hi @Nkl519 Mine used to shudder hence replacing it all and it's been fine since and I understand it was the flywheel at fault on mine. However, if you've had all that done and not done much mileage since, it could be as you suggest something not put back right. Have you spoken to who did it?

Whilst washing the car this weekend I noticed paint peel off the back of one of the spokes on one of my alloys. Having looked at the others, they too are degrading in places. Theres no issues with kerb rash, literally just the paint on main spokes in places needs repainting. Anyone have recommendations for good place or company to use for these wheel refurbs local to Bradford area?

Correct mine is not a 4x4 just standard front wheel drive 1.4 Tsi Sportline. Used a place in Bradford. First time I've used them, but won't be the last.

Mine has been in today to local VAG specialist. They stayed true to their quote of £890 fitting a new Luk clutch kit plus new flywheel. Said it took about 2 hours to do and shouldn't take much longer for someone who knows what they are doing. Only driven it a few miles so far, but gear changes are so much smoother and I never noticed they were that bad before! Car drives off like it should now. Well pleased.

Been recommended by a friend who uses them and they've been around for years as well, but I've always used main dealer until main dealer quoted me their silly price and it's made me look elsewhere. Will report back when work done, but excited to have no judder after 5 years of never knowing whether each journey will be a smooth one or otherwise!

Update, spoke to a local VAG specialist today and booked in for next week for Luk clutch kit and flywheel for £890 inc VAT!

Did you ever get this sorted Fozzy92? Mine is terrible and Skoda have quoted me £2,300. It's a 1.4 tsi 150ps manual. I've put up with it for 5 years now that I have owned the car, but it's really bad now to the point I need to take action. Only ever let Skoda do work on car to date, but do use independent garage for my wife's Rapid Spaceback so may try them. Want genuine parts. Wondering if it's better to source parts myself and get garage to fit them or have them do it all. Thoughts?

Ok I've done it. Every fault going on dash, but did as others have said left full lock, right full lock and aside from adaptive cruise everything cleared. Plugged OBD11 in found loads of faults so just cleared them and about go take it for a run. I assume these are fault logs due to reset having removed battery. One was steering angle sensor. Only lost trip mileage as far as I can see.

Going to bite the bullet and fit the battery this weekend. I did buy a memory saver, but have decided to follow advice and not use it. However, one thought that crossed my mind, does the alarm go off when you disconnect the battery? Should I remove the fuse first, which I believe is in the engine compartment fuse box?

Did anybody use grease on the terminals / cable clamps when they changed battery? Offered it for £2 at checkout when I bought the battery, so I bought it, but some people online saying no and some yes. Not sure whether to bother?

Thanks for all the help. I've ordered the battery. I've actually gone for another Exide one (Exide EFB EL600), which is updated version of what was on the car originally. I looked at others recommended, but in the end I figured it has last 7 years and still starts the car it immediately, just stop start not working much these days. It's only c. £75 as well depending where you buy from. I went with The Battery Group and ordered lunchtime yesterday and coming today. Still unsure on battery saver, it's not knowing what happens when you disconnect. I'd rather just keep power to the car if I can. I'm tempted by this which I can plug in to either OBD or cigarette power socket. Anybody foresee any issues? https://www.mccormicktools.co.uk/products/sealey-vs2076-diagnostic-socket-memory-safe-eobd-12v-2?variant=41371183775825&country=GB&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy8K8BhCZARIsAKJ8sfS9Ww2HeGrXcFmV5AZAXFMLXgXlWvN9VHk3vZFczPfooGd5tg8DkAsaAsqTEALw_wcB

Thanks for the replies. Just to check, will anything reset when I disconnect the battery? Trip mileage I can live with, but what other settings might be lost that i will need to reset / reconfigure? Battery make wise, the current one is Exide and has done 7 years, so seems quite respectable. I have a vote for Varta, any others to consider?

I had my car in at Skoda yesterday for its service and MOT under the 'All in' plan I have and whilst it was all fine and no particular issues, they told me the car battery was defective and needed replacing and would cost £315 for them to replace with a genuine VAG part. They didn't have one in stock and would have to order it, so I just said I'd keep my eye on it. It all seems fine to me and the battery itself isn't displaying the indicator to say it's defective. Question is what battery to get, I've read people saying got for AGM, but to fair the EFB battery is 7 years old and has been fine until now. The battery is the original one fitted and is made by Exide, but had VW references on it. It relevant numbers are 12V 59AH 320A DIN 640A EN/SAE/GS EFB. I am struggling to find a like for like as most seem to have higher AH nearest I can fine where all else seems equal is 60AH, which I understand would be fine. Also, I understand it needs to be coded to the car, but I do have an OBDEleven with VAG Pro, so understand that is a fairly simple process I can do myself. Also, do you lose anything when you unplug the battery from the car and / or is there anything special I should do to preserve any settings etc? Look forward to hearing thoughts.

Glad it was helpful and yes I too struggled with that conduit when I did the install, but all in all it results in a good nice professional finish. If I ever change my dashcam, I've found out that Blackvue's newer cameras use updated cables, so I'll have to go through it all again! I had hoped I could just plug and play with new cameras using existing cables.

Hi, I was quoted c. £200 at dealers, which I wasnt prepared to pay. I bought a software update via ebay for a fraction of the cost. Took a punt and it worked aside from the fact I need this last part unlocking via coding.

I have unlocked Smartlink on my wife's Rapid Spaceback 65 plate (MY2016 I believe). However, it only shows Mirrorlink and not the other option for Android Auto and Apple carplay. I believe I can unlock this with an OBD Eleven device or VCDS neither of which I have. I do have a Carista, but don't think this works. The OBD Eleven device needs the Pro pack apparently, but this is c. £100 and for literally a click of a button to activate I don't really want to shell out for this. Does anybody know of any other way to sort it?

Cheers for the replies and tips, I'll see how I get on.

Yes they did, mine is a 2018 MY. The manual just references disabling interior and tilt monitoring through relevant menu on infotainment system, but only option in there references interior monitoring. I guess it has to be assumed this does both, but I'm trying to find out for definite.

Hi Superbrex Did the above work for you on the ferry crossing you did? I am going in a couple of weeks and the manual talks about disabling the interior monitoring and tilt sensor via the vehicle setting menu, but the only option in there to untick is interior monitoring and I wonder if it all comes under that? Cheers

Mine was improved following Skoda doing a clutch bleed a couple of months ago, but still does it occasionally and like you it's mostly when in traffic. It is awful when it does it and as you say if we could guarantee the problem would be solved by a new clutch and flywheel I'd consider it, but can't justify the cost for the risk it doesn't fix it. My bite point seems OK as well. Ruins the enjoyment of an otherwise fantastic car.

Hi Hope no one minds me reviving this topic. Did anyone resolve their broken handle lock mechanism on the underseat storage? Mine is broken with the shorter pin being broken and the longer pin doesn't seem to move the lock on the other side either. I can't find any spares and I've been in touch with Skoda-parts.com who have been really helpful, but they have exhausted all options and they cannot get the parts. Seems ridiculous to have to buy the whole storage unit for some handle pins and lock mechanism if that part has rounded, which I suspect to be the problem. I am wondering about a metal hexaganol bar pushed through the whole lot, has anybody else any ideas?

Hi all Reviving this topic as I am still suffering the clutch judder issue and wondering if anyone else has any further updates. Made it through another year, but it is still the same. Apologies I never reported back post service last year, the garage just commented they noticed very slight judder, but short of strip down and likely full replacement of clutch and flywheel, nothing they can or will do. The cost is just prohibitive, certainly from a dealer and I'm worried if it doesn't cure it. What I cannot understand is how it can do it sometimes and not at other times. For example, gave it a motorway run earlier this week for over an hour, when I initially set off from home it juddered a little, then it went away, then queuing to get on to motorway it started again and did it in traffic when I came off the motorway. Driving home later after being parked for a few hours, it was perfectly fine! Yesterday morning fine from cold, last night coming back from work juddering from cold! It has also been fine for the last couple of weeks up to this week. None of it makes sense to me, surely if there is a fault somewhere with the clutch it should do it constantly. Any ideas?

Hi all I came across this topic after suffering this problem again recently and thought I'd share my experience. My car is a 2018 Sportline with the 9.2 inch glass fronted Columbus unit. Since owning the car from 2 years old, I have experienced drop outs regularly. However, there have also been sustained periods of stable connections as well, with nothing obviously done differently. During this time, I have used connected with a Samsung Galaxy S10, Google Pixel 6, Samsung Galaxy S21 and for the last 2 weeks a new Samsung Galaxy S24. Had the same issues across all phones. The S24 was a fresh install on the car and was stable until last weekend and has been dropping out ever since. The car was in for service last month and all software is up to date on the head unit. I do have to connect with a wire as mine is not the wireless version. I've also bought several cables over the time wondering if it was the cables, but all have been the same. I usually plug in before I start the car. However, today I decided to start the car first and let the bluetooth connect, which it does almost instantly, then plugged in and experienced no drop outs at all today. Glad I'm not on my own, but very frustrating that lots of us are having these issues and it appears to be Android related rather than the car head unit, if the dealers are to be believed anyway!

After lots of looking around, my car ended up in at Skoda for an unrelated warranty repair last year (got the all-in warranty) and I just got them to replace mine with OEM for ease whilst in. The replacement ones have been fine, no squeaks and no deterioration in terms of rust / corrosion as of yet. Price was reasonable as well. Front ones still original pads and discs (pads 60% worn now) and going strong at 44K miles and nearly 6 years old!

Yes the quote was clutch and flywheel. It's in next week for its service and MOT and they're going to test drive it and comment further before I agree to anything. I asked if anything else required not covered under the plan, yes it's due a cambelt that will be a discounted price of £539 because you have the service plan (down from £793). Here's hoping there's no other costs!