Bowders1

For some folks that may have developed a small leak and wondering where it is coming from, chances are, it may be from the Coolant sensor housing or Coolant house flange as is is so called. Certainly if you are loosing small amount of water and no immediate visible signs are apparent Leak's start occurring because the housing rubber seal gives up over time. I found this out when my car started over heating badly in traffic caused by a couple of things. Firstly the leak in the housing that reduced the cooling fluid and then as the car started getting hot the fans were not cutting in and thus causing rapid surge in heat. Fixed fans(top fuse box issue) and then went about replacing housing which i will show few pic and instructions on. I already have top engine cover removed, and when removed the small front engine cover to expose Coolant Temp sensor and housing I could see where coolant had been leaking. Good thing about keeping car and engine bay clean, I can see straight away where a leak is I could see coolant marks / spots on the side of my cylinder head. (note SAI valve removed makes it easier to see also) Gear and linkage also soaked in coolant. This is what a a bad one looks like, can see rubber seal has packed up. This is the new replacement one P/N 06A121132AP (less than £12 from TPS) To remove old one you need to get at the gearbox side of the cylinder head. locate the temp sensor and pull out the clip holding sensor into the housing. You will loose a little coolant. removed temp sensor You can leave connected and put to one side Then you need to pull off 3 hoses from the housing(one at each end and one at the bottom. If you have std hose clips, you will need some mole grips or adjustable wrench/pliers to compress the hose clip and slide along off the housing pic of the 3 hoses Then remove the 2 allen bolts (top and bottom) Clean up area around the housing to ensure a good seal. Replace is reverse. Be careful not to over tighten and not to crack the plastic housing, the rubber seal will do it's job to stop water loss. test for good seal and no leaks before you re fit covers. hope this helps......

Hi folks here is a DIY thread on replacing Rear axle bushes. (with links to pics now fixed) It is not hugely technical job but you need patience and plan for not having car done in a day. I think I could probably do the Job in 4 hours now providing no unplanned issues arise. And with this pics and instructions you should do it quicker than I did on my first attempt which was approx 7 hours. Although this did include taking pics and fussing around with other area's to sort whilst car up in the air. Main Tools needed. Sockets and spanners: 14mm (Whiteline RARB bolts/nuts if one is fitted) 16mm (rear shock lower bolts/nuts need replacing) 18mm (axle bush bolts/nuts), 19mm (home made bush installation tool) Drill and Drill bits Grease WD40 Hacksaw Home made Bush installation tool. Trust me you need it or get the laser or Sealey item for VW. Like this one : http://cgi.ebay.co.u...atchlink:top:en I could not justify the cost for one time use so made one up out of a long bolt couple of nuts from B&Q and some thick metal brackets from Wickes all costing approx £8 Parts Used Rear axle Bushes 6Q0 501 541E Skoda Fabia VRS Bush Euro Car parts p/n 610780015 £24.86 Bolts and nuts Bush Bolt – N10409903 (x2) Bush nut – N10106402 (x2) Lower shock Bolt – N90517304 (x2) Lower shock nut – N10286110 £11.70 I went with the Fabia VRS bush, as believe it or not is stronger than the Octy VRS one and more solid design Here is a pic of the 2 side by side. Fabia then Octy Here is a link to the VW site for more info and some alternative bushes to consider like the Leon Cupra R one although is very similar to the Fabia VRS one. http://uk-mkivs.net/...spx?PageIndex=2 So here Goes. The route I took was to jack car up and support both sides on axle stands (my axle stands have groove's in for the sills so could support on the still no worries) I think I followed the manual to a certain extent but I did one side at a time, so I did not completely remove beam, Thought I would show just how low the front end is with the back end jacked up. (Like a hover) Here is the axle bush and bolt shown that will be removed Support the beam on the side you are working on with a trolley jack Remove the lower shock bolt/nut (these will be replaced with p/n listed above) note I have a Whiteline RARB so that box bracket needs to be removed also. Now I unclipped Rear handbrake cable from it’s position on the beam. I then unclipped the metal brake line that is fitted into plastic clips along the Rear beam to brake caliper, and then I prized off the brake line seating clip on the bracket that sits on the front of the beam, and used a hacksaw to carefully cut a slit through the bracket and bent it outwards slightly to allow the metal brake pipe to be moved out of the bracket so not to be strained when beam is lowered. This method stops the need to re bleed system. Pic shown of bracket. With the lower shock bolts removed then undid the axle bush bolt/nut and removed them I lowered one side of beam on trolley jack which gives enough room to get to the bush. (checking any restrictions like brake lines were not being strained) Pic shows the metal brake line out of it’s clips and the axle bush exposed Drill out the rubber section in the old bush. I found gradually drilling these out and then whacking out the centre piece the best way after trying other options. Most of the VRS bushes are plastic sleeved so once the centre bit is out you can wedge a flat screwdriver between the sleeve and axle lip and tap it through this will collapse the sleeve and make it easier to knock out Old section of bush and sleeve removed Bush housing aperture cleaned up and greased ready for new bush. DIY install tool that is now needed The new bush ( I used a Fabia VRS one which is the same style as the LCR and ICR) they are different part number and prices. As the golf forums are all using the fabia VRS ones I went with this. The standard Octy VRS bush is the same as the Golf ones that I checked out and there is a obvious difference between them and the Fabia ,LCR and ICR Bush. You can follow the link post above to see the options and description on the available bushes. Also in page 4 of that link below it is CRUCIAL that you fit the bushes in the correct way. From inside of the beam outwards and the correct orientation of the bush inside the beam aperture. see here: http://uk-mkivs.net/...spx?PageIndex=4 The bushes were not going to go in without that DIY tool not in a million years. It is crucial to get the bush in centrally which took me a few goes of tightening it , undoing it and tapping it central and then once central the bush started to wind in. Used lots of grease to line the axle bush aperture and then lots of WD40 on the bush going in. Then when i reached the end on the DIY tool ( approx 30mm ) hammered home the rest of the bush to close the gap Pic show the bush and install tool set and ready to tighten up to wind bush into slot bush slowly going in Fully home Note the correct orientation of the bush(key slots) in the axle Beam repositioned and new Bolt/nut fitted. (torque 33lbs, then turned further90’) Refit Lower shock with new bolt/nut( torque 44lbs although I ended up a little less as thought bolt would snap, checked and correct to manual, but seems too high to me?) Refit the brake lines to there position and hand brake cables and job done. Whilst car was in the air, the Rear springs, RARB and shock's got a good clean and the Rear beam a scrape and waxoyl. Well was the hard work worth it I should say, as the car feels more planted and having had a few brisk runs no more banging and loose feel. Hope this helps folks