Bowders1

I would not be driving the car with that as the next thing will happen is the heat generated through that alt cable will be enough to melt itself completely off the fuse box and you have a live cable floating about in your engine bay . I have seen these arc on the bonnet and could start a fire. once the alt cable has degenerated there is no turning back it will continue to allow resistance to built up at the crimp and make a huge heat build up at the fuse box. hope this helps

Hi buddy how ya doing ....... still got ya VRS?

Hi guys I am still a active member and do still reply to Briskoda folks my update on the RS3 would slightly change now even though I big'd them up well but it's hard to do a full review when you only just fitted em, as tbh the wear on them is not as good as I first expected and as quoted they still suffer from inner wear. I was down to very low tread on 8 months , however my VRS was well modified and I had some caster on front so I can't completely blame the RS3's. They are probably well up there in the top of the reasonably priced tyres for what they deliver. And the fact that the stupid tyres are not symmetrical is a real idiotic approach by RS. (I know I am OCD lol) I won't get them again

Great day folks , Lovely weather.

See you folks there, not in a Octy but i be there...... What time are folks getting there roughly

As I live in Havant i could be around. Who is doing the RR, only one i know is JKM or maybe that unit near Halfords opposite Tesco's Best to text me buddy on 07812031283 i am sure i can be local. I thought that looked like a N249. defo not a N75.

That dont look right to me. What's the part number, should be able to tell from that. I have a spare N75C valve if that is no good... rgds

That dont look right to me. What's the part number, should be able to tell from that. I have a spare N75C valve if that is no good... rgds

pick up a second hand subframe quiet easy tbh. scrapping a VRS for subframe probably a little ott buddy . did you see how bad yours is. most of the time it is just surface rust that can be cleaned up and a bit of paint added . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

if you have yellow DV spring that should be ok . the limp mode will restrict boost to around 5psi. from what you describe I would still suggest bad map. a lot of these so could generic maps can work well on some cars and not on others . especially if some of your hardware is starting to wear . maps tend to expose what is already there but increase it further . most generic maps I have seen cause really bad over fuelling , so perhaps when you de throttle you are bringing fuels trims down to a workable level . fuel pump is another weak spot on mapped cars and 23/24psi boost is on the high region. I would be checking fuelling and logging what is going on at certain revs . I bet your fuelling is all over the place. post some logs and folks will be able to assist better . [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

as above these cars are getting on so std rubber boost hoses are gona be past there sell by date on mapped VRS. Leak test is good idea. But even if ok I would start to be swapping hoses to silicon as a matter of course . Throttle and TIP being the first. Good call on removing throttle and clean with carb cleaner. They get coked up and if not done will be in a dirty state. that alone could cause hesitation . Also see if your car has been part of cool pack recall (maybe still in with a free swap with dealers) I have done a lot of guides on most maintenance for the VRS if you look up my guides in the techi section. be warned you gona spend though [emoji3][emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

hi there a std DV should be ok with the remap, however depends on age of DV as they start leaking and getting weak diaphragm with age. the std DV was upgraded a few years back and is a much better design now. I have a new one if needed. also a remap does tend to kill anything that is weak like DV , N75 and turbo actuators as you are running more boost. so if you don't know the age of those components good idea to replace [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

std is ok on these but most folks fit the Ngk . can't remember for none mapped cars but it is BKR7E for mapped. search threads buddy as covered many times. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

very common on all 1.8t VAG cars. So common AUDI had heat shield fitted to the TT's . you can't get a repair loom only the full loom. It is a pita job and involves ECU and main loom wiring into . Or you could cut it and make join just down gearbox side. most folks just reinsulate where the exposed bits are. I would also recommend fitting either the AUDI TT loom heat cover or the Golfmk5 FYI cable conduit .. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

advise do not just replace fuse box as mentioned generally issue is caused by resistance build up on the alternator cable and the crimps can't pass current through so get hotter and hotter . so until cable and or crimps replaced issue will still be there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

covered many times in the forum. I covered it in a diy guide . look in Octavia technical section [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

you issue sounds just like what I had . I did all the points you raised also. in the end I found my issue to be caused by a poor weld on the roof channel. I think I posted pics few years back. if you lift up the black channel trim you will see the welds . I poured water down that channel and could replicate it . I lightly smeared tiger seal down that channel. I painted mine same colour as car as my ocd was playing up. but it fixed my issue. hope this helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

from what i understand not a easy job. They are glued in so you have to be very careful with a knife and remove std rings and mess with swapping over. A boa sport has nice clocks and chrome rings and i looked at swapping whole dash clocks which is a lot more work too....[emoji30] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sorry gay.......... nice to see new fiddling mods as i am into that. But not this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^^^^^^ yep what Paul states is a good bet.

getting on slowly with it mate . done quite a few mods but miss the VRS. The shear practical use and nimbleness with all the kids I did is going be a tough one to beat. here are a few pics of her. She was just a bog std sticker less orange motor.

sorry for late reply the door card are from a 1.8t 4x4 although they are also in other models too . so you don't need to make them up buddy[emoji106]

you may code a code similar to this : 1 Secondary Air Injection System Insufficient Flow Bank 1 quite common if the SAI has been deleted or unplugged or generally faulty. most folk map out that code when removing or deleting the Sai as fitting a resistor does not guarantee the fault will not appear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi there decatting exhaust will certainly not pass mot. Nothing to do with incomplete exhaust. A cat is needed to get emissions down low enough to pass mot emission test. Most folks feel the extra grunt and turbo spin up is worth the aggro of swapping decat back to std cat once a year for MOT. Some folks also have a modified sports cat that they unbolt decat section and bolt up cat for mot. Also some folks use a friendly garage to pass mot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi mate if you removed all the items including hard lines and hoses you should have a spare nipple under right side of inlet manifold to take new DV hose to inlet nipple. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk