PeterGAH

Thanks for that post RaduZ I have just been affected by this error in my Octavia 111. The transmission lets go, also ESC, then TPMS then stopstart. After stopping and restarting its ok again for a while. After recording incidences the weird thing is that it only happens at 11:00 in the moning for 30 mins. If I avoid driving in the time window there is no problem. So I will find out if it is the motor relay as its in the dealer tomorrow.

Aluminium y joint now fitted. Petergah

I have found the leak. It is a y shaped connector between expansion tank and engine part 1J0121087E After a run on a hot day the heat soak raises system pressure and coolant squirts out of a hole in this plastic connector. A new aluminium one is on order. PeterGAH

Where does it spit out? The cap does not have a relief valve. PeterGAH

I m losing coolant but only when heater is on. I got the low level warning 12 months ago. Topped up and it went for a month Put some radweld in and it went for 3 months. The coolant drips from front bumper right side after a run on a hot day. From time to time I noticed the curry smell in the car. Recently I noticed that smell as I set cabin temp up from 19 to 24. The leak Is related to the heater being turned on. There is pink residue on a component inboard from coolant reservoir and lower down. It has what looks like a hex cap on top. Difficult to see this item under a mass of pipes. What is this part. Any of above sound familiar? Peter

Quick Update on this topic I took the car to have the Terraclean treatment several thousand miles ago. The result I did not expect was reduced oil consumption This process presumably frees off gummed rings!! PeterH

EVentually the CEL came back with same code groan After thinking about getting Combi valve changed I used Wynns EGR cleaner squirted into the inlet tract Have not seen CEL for 4000 miles - I think it is sorted now as we go past 209000 miles in this astonishing car. See you at Gaydon Peter H

Eventually after seeing engine light with code 16795 on a regualr basis and asking this forum I concluded it was the combi valve stuck. I asked the dealer to change it but they didn't want to do it. I decided to try EGR valve cleaner from Halfords Used this product with a friend keeping the revs up while I suqirted it into the intake tract (Filter removed). Result !!! after some initial very strange running for 50 miles or so I have now not seen the fault code come up in the last 4000 miles I would say that is a result I think it was Wynns EGR cleaner or Halfords own PeterH

Thank you very much for this. Excellent. Now to get it changed. PeterH

I was having the Secondary Air pump changed to cure a Engine light and they found the removed pump was full of water. I have poured some of this water into a glass jar and it has a brown sediment that settles out. The sediment is attracted to a magnet and smells of rust. In this forum there is a thread dicussing this problem and it was caused by a "combi Valve" I have asked both my usual repairers to change the combi valve and both say they don't know what I am talking about. My question is simple. What is a combi valve called in Motor Trade speak or the skoda Parts Catalogue? PeterH

Thanks and yes - you are right and I know this! Must have suffered a mental aberration! So I cleaned the Left side headlamp with T cut Significant improvement. Then I changed the LH headlamp bulb which was the 11 year oldoriginal. (I have had the car from new) I just fitted a standard H4 - not Xenon or Nightbreaker. This was because I had a new H4 in the garage. Huge improvement. So my conclusion is that Bulbs wear out as well as everything else. Now I will do the Right Side PeterH

My engine started pinking under heavy acceleration. I cannot find my original post of a couple of months ago. Anyway someone suggested having a Terraclean treatment. So I did Since then I have floored it a few times and guess what? The pinking isn't there any more Actually as I drove away from the Terraclean Dealer I could feel the engine was much smoother than before. The egnine has covered 176000 miles so I suppose the combustion chambers were a little cokey and the injector spray patterns erratic. So thanks to the contributor who suggested Terraclean. It seems to have worked. It was £108.00 Find dealers at Randstad www.randstadltd.co.uk/ PeterGAH

Thank you all for all your replies. The above link covers H7 bulbs - mine are H1 but only for main beam and dipped is the problem No one has yet been able to advise the location of the earth point. I have a feeling HID, although certainly very bright, are not legal in my Mk1 Octavia as it does not have automatic headlamp levelling. (The manual levelling doesn't work either). I will try changing the Dipped bulbs, which are H4 PeterH

I have now travelled over 4000 miles with no CEL after fitting a used Secondary Air Pump that I cleaned and then replaced rivets with nyloc nuts and setscrews. So further thanks to Paul Dazzle for that excellent diagnosi and cure - :sun: Peter H

Hi All My dipped lamps are poor and a colleague thinks the earth may have corroded as the car is 11yrs old. Does anyone know the location of the earth for the circuit that includes the lamps. PeterH

Cleaned up an old MAF with electrical contact cleaner spray. Swapped it over. That seems to have solved the 17536.

I obtained a used Secondary Air pump (New are over £300) and sure enough it was grinning at me around the joint where some of the rivets had given way. So you were spot on guys. I was able to pull out the old rivets with a Chipboard screw and pliers. The most secure ones came out by twisting the point of the kitchen scissors in them. They are made of very thin weak aluminium. In fact the Aluminium had corroded about 5 mm down the rivet so some of the heads just fell off leaving me to pull the rivet out the other end with the chipboard screw. As I removed the 6 rivets I replaced them with 4mm x 40 Metric machine screws washers and Nyloc nuts. they are all in a kit from homebase at £5.99 My local independant Mercedes Audi VW garage swapped them over and I kept the one taken off. It is the same, grinning at me where at least 4 of the rivets have failed. I have not seen the DT Code now for a large mileage of 380 miles so it was arriving every 60 -80 miles. I think the failed rivets cause an air leak to the inlet system which means the CEL doesn't arrive until the engine is warm. However it is one more problem solved it seems. Thanks again for all the most useful help. Peter H

Brilliant Thanks. It seems the point in the journey at which the CEL comes on is not related to the part at fault I will go through the various checks and see what the rivets are like - The pump rattles like crazy on cold switch on. Thanks again

I understand from other threads the Secondary Air Pump can start coming apart and cause this code. As this works when the engine is cold then seems to shut off does the arrival of a CEL long after starting provide any additional clues. My simple brain tells me if the pump is faulty the CE light should come on when the engine is cold and the pump is running. I am pretty sure it will be more complicated. Any pointers as to which part needs replacing would be most appreciated For the moment I just clear the code and it stays clear for about 200 miles. PeterH

Fordfan was right. A new oil pump solved it. The fault code persisted after 1800 clean miles and eventually after an oil change the oil pressure went completely Big STOP 2 miles out from garage Towed it back and changed oil pump and hey presto 16396 is solved as the better oil pressure now tensions the cam to cam drive chain properly. Now we have a 17536 - so inlet breathers, MAF etc next. Its an old engine so stuff is to be expected.

Thanks - Sounds a good idea - Is it difficult to remove ?

I have now determined the component that is emitting the groaning on cold start is the Throttle Body. It didn't groan this morning as the temprature was 8C Any further thoughts on this or is it most likely the secondary air pump much lower down. PeterH

Many thanks for replies I have not heard of Secondary Air Pump before so that is very helpful. Regarding the starter motor, the noise is not immediately after key release. It starts after a few seconds of running. I will watch out for that dry starter bearing however as the miles pile onto this car. PeterH .

This is an AUM 1.8 Turbo 150BHP engine. There is a component located above the alternator and presumably part of the air intake system. Who knows what it is and why it could make such a horrible noise for a few minutes on a cold start. I have 164,000 miles on the clock. Thanks PeterH

I asked to keep the old one when mine was replaced. Recently I cleaned it up with electral cleaning aerosol and swapped it for the newer one for a test. The old one now works perfectly and I still have the newer one in the boot. PeterH