Danayess

Hi - yeah OTA update. Once completed it did a spinning wheel on the main display for about half hour while driving and then after a stop and a start all seemed to be working. I only noticed the HUD not working when I was about an hour into a 4 hour drive. When I got home I also noticed the boot kick thing also not working and the keyless entry also failed. The next day the car briefly went into limp mode which cleared as soon as I stopped and started the engine again. Booked it into Škoda for a repair. Later that afternoon the car failed completely - flashing screens, e-brake cranking in on start and then releasing, Christmas tree of cautions on the display and then complete failure.of all power. Seemed like a dead battery which would have set me back £200 but obviously everything had been working absolutely fine until the OTA update. Wife came home in our ‘good’ VRS and I did a jump start. Car lit up absolutely fine first time. All warnings went out after a bit of a drive, the HUD is now working, all the extras are working and the car has been running absolutely fine for the last couple of days. Pure mental. Apparently garages are saying the system can sometimes have a sh@t fit and just meltdown. However - I’d have had it towed if I didn’t have another car to jump it from and then I’d have probably forked out for a new battery which while possibly compromised seems to be working okay.

My hope is that the battery is goosed - there are similarities to when I’ve had a dead battery before but the normal signs aren’t necessarily there. Every start has been immediate or ‘strong’ until now so it’s odd that it would just cliff edge like it appears to have. The only thing that is different to my normal usage is the update which killed off the HUD and some other optional extra electric items; and the cold weather. I’ll update when my good VRS gets home and does a jump on this niggly new one.

My car appears to have developed a bit of a similar fault. I posted on here yesterday saying the HUD on mine wasn’t working but since then it has developed. Yesterday while driving it went into limp 1500rpm mode randomly. I stopped and switched off the engine, started and immediately was okay again. Last night I observed random lights on the back coming on and off while the car was parked. And finally today when I went to start the car the e-brake engaged and dragged the pedal forwards and backwards a few times then displayed a red warning saying get to garage before the entire display and infotainment system went off. Now the car is completely bricked and I cannot start, stop, lock or basically anything, I don’t suppose this has happened to anyone else has it?

Hi all - I know it’s a bit of a first world problem but here it is: I updated the software in my Mk4 VRS Petrol (if that makes any difference) yesterday. Now the HUD doesn’t work and is displaying a ‘Sorry this function is unavailable’ message when I try to change any of the settings within the Vehicle menu. Is this happening to anyone else? I’m happy if it is a brief glitch which will be repaired by another update but if not I’ll need to book the car into the garage (yet again - it’s not the most reliable VRS I’ve ever had (my 2012 is still running like a steam train)).

In conclusion...now that my car is back on the road and stopping well. Many learning points from this event. 1. When you think you’ve done enough homework - do some more. 10mm is a lot when it comes to brake discs - if in doubt ask before buying - saves a lot of trouble in future and pandemic trips to Eurocarparts. 2. Wear gloves 3. If it doesn’t look right it probably isn’t. 4. M14 Spline Socket + 375mm 1/2” breaker bar will get bracket bolts off working from underneath with axle stands - be prepared for some serious stress positions. Adequate space for only about 1/4 turn at a time. Be patient. Thanks for the help - can’t believe I was silly enough to think it was going to work when it was so blatantly wrong - always a good day to learn. Thanks for the help and comments.

Don’t worry I had zero intention of driving it with the discs grinding. Instead I double checked my work and discovered I’m a massive moron who went and bought the wrong sized discs. I’m off to euro car parts to exchange. Sorry to take up peoples time with unforgivable buffoonery. 🙄

Clearly the newer is bigger but I don’t have a new Skoda one to compare the old one to. Put the old one back on and clearance is fine between bracket guides with no rubbing at all. The only thing I can think of now is that when the disc is seated and still rotating just prior to tightening up the bracket - as I rotate the disc and it rubs against the bracket some very fine waxy white powder is filed off by the abrasion it can’t be metal filings unless the disc is made of an extremely soft metal. Is this a coating of some kind and could it just be that as it gets driven it will file down? I’m clutching at straws with this as despite my lack of experience changing discs I’m pretty certain the wheel should still rotate once it’s fitted regardless of any factory coating that might be applied. Is there something I’ve completely screwed up on and I’m making a totally school boy error? Am I now looking at being the first person ever to discover Brembo brake discs don’t fit Skoda Octavia saloons from 2012 - as far fetched as that might seem?

Update - part numbers confirmed with Brembo website as being the correct ones for my car (apparently). Bearing seems okay - hub rotates freely when spun with no abnormal noise. Disc touches bracket at the exact same place on top and bottom so alignment looks fine. Loosely fitted both discs and the problem presents both sides. Shape and size wise they look pretty much the same as the old ones - however when fitted there is clearly a difference in size when seated vs the old discs. Pics below for clarity.

Thanks for the responses all. AJ will check wheel bearing this morning when I measure up the discs to double check they are definitely the right size. J.R. the washer is a curious one - I’ve not seen any pictures where the retaining bolt has a washer. However all four of the bolts (both sides) have identical ones which are very difficult to remove. The type that get screwed on rather than slide over during installation so I have to assume that they are supposed to be there. Thinking more about some of the rage fuelled waffle I put on the first post I’ve come to realise that there is nothing I can actually do to adjust the caliper bracket outwards as it sits flush to the wheel hub assembly, adding washers would only move the bracket inwards which will make the problem worse. The only solution is to confirm the parts are indeed correct and then see if I can get them moved inwards themselves to create the required gap. My confusion is that I seem to be the only person that this has ever happened to.

Not a stupid question at all - they are identical visually and measure width wise pretty much the same given that the old ones are worn to hell having been on for donkeys - I suspect that they are the originals - god bless Skoda reliability. The wheel mounts onto them with no dramas at all. The packaging, sizing and look against the old ones seem to indicate they are correct. I’ll measure the hub to outer ratio tomorrow to see if there is a depth difference as I’m all out of ideas at this point.

Hi all - sorry if this is an old thread or previously answered but I’m just about ready to rampage. I’ve spent an intermittent three days replacing discs and pads all round on my petrol 2012 Octavia VRS (1Z3). I’ve used the extremely good guides on this website throughout. The fronts are on and working like sea anchors. I’ve now ground to a halt with the rears. I’ve managed to loosen off the caliper bracket M14 bolts (with a little help from Amazon and Halfords). I’ve greased, bandaged, mopped up blood and sweat, my kids have learned a new barracks vocabulary which made my wife’s eyebrows go right up and now I’m completely at a halt. Here’s the problem: The new Brembo 1Z3 disc - as compared to the ticket in the windscreen is grinding against the outward side of the caliper bracket once the bracket is tightened up. I thought maybe it might loosen off if I put the wheel on and torqued it up to 120 but no joy. 90 odd kilos of me standing on the side of the wheel won’t make it turn. It is stuck - the handbrake is off, the piston is wound right back so the pads fit. The wheel won’t turn. variables - I have replaced everything except the caliper bracket, caliper and caliper bracket retaining bolts (the poxy M14 ones that need their own adaptor for and need a small breaker bar to fit around all the brake and suspension bits). I have also reused the washers that were previously attached to the caliper bracket retaining bolts. Could this be the problem? Has the bolt itself stretched and now by tightening it, it has pulled the bracket too close? Should there be a small spacer to make the disc a mm or two proud of the car so that it doesn’t catch? There is nothing else in the box to indicate washers or spacers or anything to recalibrate any gap. The 19 year old in me that used to cut around in a Saxo VTR says - get in drive it off and let them bed in. The thirty something says that’s a silly idea and probably will cause a fire. Has anyone else had this problem? Please let me know if you need any more gen. Thanks for reading. Below is a picture of the problem. Left of shot is outboard. You can see there is a significant gap.