Antscran

Ended up buying a vacuum tester cheap off Amazon as found a crack in one of the hard pieces of vacuum pipe that goes to the actuator. Changed the pipe with some 8mm O/D 4mm I/D silicone for now and can see the actuator move when the wife revs the car to 2000rpm. Checked the vacuum as well and stable at 800rpm and increases with revs. I reset the fault codes and still have the particulate issue as expected, took it for quick drive around the block (only 3-4 minutes) and still only the particulate and radio code shows now on the OBD scanner. However, when I reset the code didn't have my glasses on and had the engine running it said ignition on/engine off and I clicked yes just retraced my steps again, my fault RTFM! So the code appears to be reset but the coil light is still flashing on the dash and the amber yellow engine symbol is still lite, tried reseting with just the ignition on but guess the rest codes are specific to a fault code so now the code is not present on the OBD scanner it cannot reset it. I believe the car is actually in limp mode as cannot go above 2500rpm and makes sense some what after reading other posts and YouTube videos, I tried looking at the dash option on the Autel and had the coil light on for 4 seconds, reverted back to still flashing. Unsure how to rest the dash as no issues so cannot clear anything. Is there a way to do a soft rest of the ECU or clear all codes function, maybe turn it on and off like a PC. Any ideas on how to resolve this?

Probably does just trying to identify the part in the manual, the section I am reading doesn't differentiate between engine size I think the intercooler section differs for 1.2 ,1.6 and 1.4, 1.9. There is also a charge pressure valve, I will have a good look through the manual as given me something to investigate so thanks.

Hi Sepulchrave thanks for the insights and excuse my ignorance just consulted my Haynes manual and the Turbocharger charge control system components. Would this be the Boost pressure solenoid valve? The manual also states that it's important that the vacuum pump hoses are connected correctly to the solenoid valve. Is there a correct order or just that they are fitted securely (which would seem obvious)?

It's was a fairly well known garage not going to name a shame, always had trouble checking the oil myself (accurately) as the dip stick has 2 spigots which locks it firmly but this is a faff without a tool to unhook both sides, I didn't live on a flat area then so only checked when parked for shopping if I remembered.

I know this is very old but believe this was all down to the oil level being too high, I ended up taking a specialist as the oil light came on again with a few weeks of a service, they ran some tests and could not find anything wrong apart from the oil level being too high. Bleed some out and not had this issue since, back again with a different issue now 🙂

Hi all, I have a Skoda Fabia 1.6L Diesel 75bhp, recently had the amber engine fault light come on and the coil light flashes intermittently. Regen is also on Dash display and usually clears after a 20 minute drive but drove for 1 hour the other day and cannot get this to clear this time around. Had it serviced a month or 2 ok all good, guy noticed one of the small thin black vacuum hoses had snapped and it was too tight extended so ordered a new one to fit, the air filter duct had also split a bit so both these were changed at the same time on the second visit along with the brake fluid. Shortly after the yellow engine amber light came on as well as the flashing coil light, he came out and reset the coil light and it said something about turbo pressure. The car also said 70g of ash I think so a regen was due soon and he said will possibly clear once the regen has completed and the car values stabilise, he would need to come out at reset the fault code though. Regen did it's thing although did note it took a long time to clear than normal (30-40 mins) and just not got around to getting him out to see if the faults clear now. The car has been running fine up until 2-4 days ago. Physical Symptoms I have noticed - The car is revving fine although noticed it has idled at 1000rpm sometimes at start-up recently when it usually stays around 800rpm - Some morning can get a bit smokey from the exhaust when cold but this clears with a few minutes of the engine cold light going out, been doing this for awhile now before the service and can get a bit stutter but clears. - Biggest symptom that has occurred in the last few days is loss of power engine revs fine no knocking or other sounds, just very limited acceleration especially in 1st and 2nd gear does affect 3rd, 4th as well OBD data Attached an OBD device which I borrowed from work Autel and setup for a Fabia 2007, Hatchback and CAY 1.6L TDI-CR / 55kW (UDS) (also verified this with a 66kW just to check and same codes). This came up with the following error codes: 01 - Engine Control Module 1 = 2 Fault Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance / fault status 10101111, fault priority 2, faulty frequency 2 Particulate Filter Regeneration Duration Bank 1 / fault status 1010111, fault priority 2, fault frequency 1 56 - Radio = 1 Fault Antenna, on radio - Short Circuit to ground / fault status 01100111, fault priority 5, fault frequency 254fault priority 2, fault frequency 1 Any ideas would be appreciated I am definitely no mechanic but can try and check things and will also drop the guy that did the service a line for advice on what he recommneds. Thanks, Ant

Hi all, I own a Skoda Fabia Diesel 1.6 Tdi (Cr 75). Recently the red flashing low oil pressure light comes on when the car is warm, it happened a year ago once just before a service which I told the mechanic about and he couldn't see any issues. Now (10 months later) it has become more frequent and usually occurs when stuck in traffic or going slow after 15 - 30 minutes or so, seems ok when on the motorway. There is plenty of oil, coolant on short runs sub 15 minutes this never happens so appears to be heat related. Could this be the switch / pressure sensor? One thing I have noticed is I have never heard or seen the radiator fan spin up, probably completely unrelated but wondering if there is an easy check to make on this or perhaps a fuse? Thanks, Ant