Harry-vRS

Bump, I know it's probably simple but I just need some guidance any help appreciated

Hi guys, I'm having some issues retrofitting cruise control to my car I've fitted the stalk as I read online all I needed was a specific Steering Wheel control module, this being either Highline or Midline and I double checked this against the ROSSTECH list and mine came up as midline but I'm having some problems as I had fitted the part and the car recognised that it was incorrectly coded so I coded it correctly to the option 4 so it knew it was 'Board computer with Cruise Control system (CCS)' and after doing so it removed the error code and I had no fault codes. Now going further it still didn't work after this and I did some further investigating and found I needed to enable this feature in the engine control module using the 'Coding 2' option but the problem I've got is that my option in VCDS is greyed out as if the control module doesn't support this which is really confusing, my Steering Control Module is 1K0-953-549-AF and from looking on Rosstech (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Steering_Wheel_Control_Module_Versions) mine is midline which is all I need, I've checked my clutch and brake pedals they appear to already have the wiring needed to tell the car when I depress either or so not sure what to make of the problem. Any help really appreciated

Thank you for all suggestions guys, sadly it seems I've found the issue in the locating pin on the VVT solenoid sheered off, I'd expect this to be because of my lazyness in both using the bolt to draw the VVT solenoid on and damaging the locating slot and then accompanied by the fact I timed the head off the block so likely was out of time with the block as I forgot to double check the timing of the camshafts after lining up the exhaust camshaft and crankshaft. So my rush to get it together has caused 2 bent intake valves, anybody any suggestions on maybe what I can possibly get away with replacing to get it running on a budget? How likely are the conrods to be bent or valve guides/pistons to be damaged, from what I can see the intake valve shafts appear straight so far so unsure if they've caused damage to the head itself or they've just been bent at the valve end so obviously not sealing correctly.

Hi guys, Car Details Skoda Octavia, 2006, 2.0 TFSI BWA EA113 I know the title may confuse people and it may seem like possible breaking of the engine during the rebuild, but I promise its a bit more confusing and is the reason for my post. I recently remove the engine from my car to do a few bits to it unfortunately due to unforeseeable events I had to put it back together without replacing much except from gaskets that need replacing. I took the engine out teared down the top end so manifolds off, timing belt, pulleys and majority of coolant hoses, overall not many parts came off fuel rail and stuff did come off but that is about it really nothing mechanical except from camshafts came out and went back in. Now upon rebuilding and putting back together with the new gaskets and ensuring torque specs were all triple checked as it was my first engine rebuild, bearing in mind I never removed anything bottom end related including the crankshaft pulley as I couldn't get to it in time, I found that the car started sounded a bit like a lawnmower without a downpipe on it as I just wanted to ensure it ran before chucking it all back together, it kicked up worked fine did this about 4 times turning off and leaving for a few minutes between due to only having water in my coolant system and didn't want to boil it. On my last start up it ran fine revs were hunting a little bit it seemed but hunting downwards not upwards so kept creeping down I thought nothing of it at the time but maybe it has some relevance, now I revved it on this last time and it cut out around 2-3k revs and I left it at that putting it down to probably not having O2 sensors so doesn't know enough about itself to run correct. Bearing in mind throughout this whole thing it smelt like it was running rich again down to the lack of O2 sensors. I have since been unable to start it, it still spins fine nothing hitting like a valve or something and neither chain nor timing belt are snapped so both camshafts spin and from removing the valve cover they seem to return to the correct orientation with both the exhaust and intake valve lobes pointing inwards and are the same distance from the center using my cheapish locking tool could quite possibly be the problem not having the camshafts timed together correctly, I've also found on some attempts it seems to come even closer to starting when I hold the throttle down as if its not getting enough air to kick up, the starter doesn't register any movement on the dash but the engine kicks up to around 500rpm on the dash after a few seconds of cracking and the engine looks like its about to kick into life but just doesn't quite get there now onto my actual question is anyone able to provide any guidance on where to proceed and possible for secondary timing marks on the crank and exhaust camshaft other than the ones on the accessory belt and came gear. Last note it does backfire a little bit and if I stop cranking at the right time it backfires fully and you can hear it originally sounded like a loud metal clang but it keeps doing it every so often with no predictability. Thanks in advance sorry for the long story just wanted to give everyone as much information as possible.