WCKD

Went to the electrician today. As I suspected, a rat chewed the electrical circuit going from the engine bay to the right front wheel abs sensor.

I did that today, jacked the car up on an elevator and the sensor + wire is ok. I think there was a rat inside the engine compartment as I found multiple spots and I think it might've chewed other cables which completely sucks, as you might imagine. Now I gotta go and check every single cable related to abs, ESP, power steering, Tpms etc.

Yeah, you need to get the plastic panel of at first, then remove the rivers by screwing them in with a powered screw driver and get the locking mechanism out. Then you'd have to check the connections on the locking mechanism board. I suggest changing it completely with a new one, as there can be multiple issues with like like perhaps a dying motor.

Hello guys, I own a 2012 Skoda Octavia VRS. Today, after I entered the car and put the key into ignition, the "ERROR: ABS/Stabilization control (ESC)" popped onto the maxi dot and all of the warning lights (ESP, ABS, Power steering, Tpms) turned on, followed by multiple tpms sound beep. I attached a video showing the problem. I drove for a few kilometers, hoping that they would go away, but they didn't. I have done a vcds scan, I also attached the logs down below. It seems like there is a fault with the abs sensor on the front right wheel. Would you have any suggestions I could try before going to the service and removing the wheel? Do you think it's a bad abs sensor or perhaps an electrical issue? It feels strange as the last time I drove it was yesterday night and nothing would signal this kind of issue. Thank you in advance! VID_20220208_191913.mp4 Log-B82KSN-TMBEH21Z9D2020068-164170km-102010mi.txt

Thank you so much for all your extensive help! I will make sure to take a deeper look over everything you said and report back.

I think it's sawtooth pattern, there's more wear on the inner side of the wheel. I think it's finally time for me to pick a new set of rims and tyres for it. Both winter and summer, haha, my wallet will cry a lot

Yes, I put them in the same place as they were removed in the spring. Actually I think I saw a little bump to the inside edge of a back tire. Do you think that can cause such a huge noise at those speeds?

Thank you for your reply! I don't think it's the tires, as I already swapped them from summer to winter ones. It's making the same noise as before.

Hello everyone and happy holidays! It's been almost 3 months since I started hearing this noise. I have a Skoda Octavia 2012 VRS TDI. At first it was not that upsetting, but today, it got worse. It is getting audible at speeds over 60 kmh, and it's dependant on the speed, you can hear and see that at 100 kmh it's getting really loud. Do you have any idea what the issue could be? Thank you in advance!

It was exactly this issue, thank you so much!

Thank you so much, I'll look more into that, I really appreciate it!

Hello, as you can see from the video below, I'm facing an issue with the central door locking mechanism on my 2012 Skoda Octavia FL VRS. There are multiple clicking noises when the system tries to lock de doors. The sound is even sometimes present when just driving, without any interaction with the locking system. Now, I have noticed that my right door is also not being recognized by the canbus (I guess) when open, even if it's open. After I did a VCDS scan, I retrieved the codes listed again down below in the picture. Do you have any suggestion on how I could check the problem further and eventually fix it! Thank you in advance! door switch problem.mp4

Thank you so much, I found out the exact same numbers, indeed my car is currently running 9977 SW, and there are 5751 pre-dieselgate and also another update post-dieselgate 9978 softwares. Thanks for the quick answer.

Hello, Due to how frequent my Octavia VRS MK2 FL 2.0 TDI CEGA does DPF Regenerations (about 150-200km or so), I was wondering if there was a diesel gate software update for it that's been flashed on it. My scan shows this: If it has been flashed, is it possible to flash it to pre-dieselgate software? If yes, where can I find the softwares and perhaps can you tell me if I can flash it with ODIS or how much should a tuner company ask for this kind of a job? Thank you in advance!

Thankfully I have found the solution, and hopefully anyone having the same problem can give it a try, for me it worked. Long story short, it seems like the car had an accident in the back with the previous owner, causing the trunk door to move a little bit into either left or right side, nothing major. However I found that after it got repaired, nobody aligned it properly and the 2 rubber pieces were completely screwed all the way into the trunk. I attached a picture so that you know what I'm talking about. There are 2 rubber pieces helping the attenuation of the closing trunk. They can be screwed and unscrewed by twisting left or right. Mine were both completely screwed in and not only the boot wasn't properly sealing, thus making that rubber vibrating noise with the metal portion they touch when it's closed, but it was also making a really unpleasant sound when closed from any height. I fixed both issues by unscrewing the left rubber more than the right one since it seems like the boot still isn't 100% straight into position after the accident, so I had to compensate more from one side. Since then, I have absolutely no rattle and closing the truck sounds deep, as it should. Thanks for all suggestions either way! I really appreciate the help!

Hello, everyone! A couple of weeks ago I noticed a strange noise coming from the back of my Octavia MK2 FL VRS (you can hear it from the attachment below). It seems to come from the boot lid, as I had a friend sitting in the back of the car with the back seats down, and he told me that somehow, if he gets his head into the boot he can't hear it at all. In the front and back seats however, the noise is become quite irritating to say the least. It is not a loud one, it's just really prominent at low speeds. It can be heard the most when you sit on the back seat behind the driver seat and it's somehow coming from the top plastic surrounding the third brake light or from the sides in the same area. I have removed everything from the boot, including the spare wheel cover and the sound is still present. I really seems like it comes from the boot lid, however, I have tried to replicate the sound with it closed, trying to literally bounce the car up and down but hadn't had any luck. Here's some quick information on the sound behavior: - It can be heard at low to medium speeds 0-30mph, anything higher and the road noise wins over. - On the recording I was literally cruising in 1st gear at 1000 rpm in order for you to hear it better - No matter what surface the car runs on, whether it's really smooth (like an underground parking), or a little bit rough, the sound is present, although it seems to be even more audible on rough asphalt - My rear wash fluid line is detached as no fluid can reach the rear windscreen, (maybe it can be related to this, I read its a common problem on MK2) - I have tried to clean the rubber that encloses the boot lid when it's shut (right near the third brake light at the top ), however it didn't seem to make any difference - If I shake the boot lid when open, I can't hear any noises, they're just audible when the car is moving with the boot lid closed I really hope you can help me find the source of this noise as it's driving me crazy. Thank you in advance! Rattling_Squeaking.m4a

I have fixed my drl issues mate, from a previous post. It was not the byte18 coding, one of the wires from the drl was removed from the DRL pin and that was causing the issues. Thanks!

Hello, Can anyone provide me a clean Autoscan (original) for the Skoda Octavia MK2 FL VRS 2.0 TDI CEGA? Thank you in advance!

Hello, mate, I have recently done an Autoscan of the car. You can check it out here. There's only one error with the aux cable because it was an open circuit since it was not connected to the phone. Otherwise everything is OK. I have to mention that coding the DRL dimming option from the message above didn't have any effect, so I guess the issue is with the byte18 you mentioned. Will hopefully drive it to the dealer on Monday and see if they can help. If you find anything interesting on the Autoscan let me know. Thanks!

Yep, that's the normal behavior. Mine remain at full brightness all the time. I just hope there is a setting into vcds that can fix this, otherwise I need to go and make the dealer a visit hoping that they can fix it with Odis. I have read some forums and someone found this picure. I wonder if this will fix it. Will try it out when I'll receive my vcds.

Indeed, this is a very detailed answer, thanks for the clarification! Yes, I have the headlight switch you mentioned. I haven't tested with sidelights or dipped beam yet since I like to keep them on Auto. But on Auto, The DRL isn't dropping in brightness when the dipped beam automatically(the xenon) switches on. Will test it tonight by manually switching the lever to dipped beam position, but I recon it won't do any difference.

I'm sorry, I'm not really familiar with the terminology you're using here. I know only of main beam (the d2s xenon bulb), the high beam (the h1 halogen bulb), the DRL's and the fog lights (hb4). I don't know of any other lights on my Octavia 😂 And the issue is that as far as I know, while having the main beam) the xenon bulb on) the DRL's should dim considerably.

It's in the EU 🇪🇺 regulations that the DRL's should dip when having the main beam on, since they glare a lot during night time. The main purpose of the DRL(DayTime Running Lights) is as the definition says, that they need to run during day time only, and eventually dim as they go through the night. The Headlights do levelling dance only when the car starts, mine was only on ON position without having the engine started.

I have recorded another video showing the issue, as you can see, when the main beam is on, the DRL's won't dim. Proof here

A phone camera won't be able to capture the intensity correctly when filmed from the front. For example, when the xenon main beam gets turned on, the camera automatically corrects the intensity and makes the DRL seem they dim a little bit, but in reality they don't. The main idea is that my drls remain on at full power no matter what.