WCKD

Will post it as soon as I get the chance to do it again, thank you!

VCDS Autoscan returned no errors at all. The car is as clean as it gets 😔. I know that the guy I bought it from is a director at local Skoda dealership so if you're saying someone messed with byte 18, maybe an engineer from there did. So you're saying there's no setting into vcds to activate drls dimming when main bean is on?

Hello, After a short night drive with my recently purchased Octavia MK2 FL VRS I have noticed that in no more than 10 km I received 5 oncoming flashes from other drivers. I started to debug what could've been the issue, the Xenon AFS Headlights are set up properly as they should be, and since I was only running the main beam, the only possible culprit must've been the DRLs. From what I recon legally, and from what I've seen in many other cars equipped with DRL, when the main beam is on, the drls should noticeably dimm. Well, as you can see from this video of my car, they don't. Has anyone experienced this issue? Is there any VCDS specific coding that may set up the dimming correctly? Thank you in advance!

Oh, I see, I saw some videos right now splitting the headlight apart and got disappointed by this way of doing it. I didn't know it was permasealed. Too bad though, it would've been an amazing light output upgrade. Thanks for your reply!

Hello everyone, I own a 2013 Octavia MK2 FL VRS with OEM AFS Xenon headlights, however, seeing what other projectors output online, I have decided that I should change the oem ones (they are somewhat blurry and hazy) with the ones from Hella EvoX-R. I have read some forums on vag groups that suggest it's a pretty difficult operation that can also result in AFS motor failure and other issues. Has anyone here done such retrofit on OEM xenon headlights? If yes, are there any steps, or tutorial to be taken into consideration, beforehand? Thank you in advance!

Mine's 2.0 TDI CEGA, not EA888 TSI from the GTI. The issue isn't causing anything to the normal behaviour of the car right now, but I knew from my previous cars that it wasn't normal for the voltage to drop that much. The car starts as it should be. Thank you for your replies, I really appreciate!

When I increase to 2000rpm with all the major consumers on, the voltage drops to 13V (sometimes even 12.9V). Actually it doesn't make a difference if I press the accelerator pedal to 2000rpm or just leave it at idle at ~750rpm, it will still show around 13V with all the consumers on. What intrigues me the most is that there is also another anomaly and I don't know if it's related to the voltage or not, but at idle, the rpms fluctuate a lot. I have attached 2 videos here showing the issue I'm talking about. One is a graph with the fluctuation at idle (which seems big to me) and the fluctuation at ~1100 rpm when I have my foot constantly on the acclerator pedal (which has a lot less fluctuations). The other video is showing the fluctuation of the voltage and rpms in the same time, again pretty strange.

The increase is to 1000-1050 RPM. The car isn't equipped with stop-start feature. Thank you for your reply.

Thank you for your reply. The battery light is showing along with the dashboard staging feature when I turn the key to Accesories position. After the engine is turned on, it disappears and never comes back on.

Oh and I forgot to mention that I did a full VCDS diagnosis and there were absolutely no error pooping out from it. Everything was clean.

Hello everyone, I have recently bought a Skoda Octavia 2 FL VRS 2013 2.0 TDI CR 170HP in great shape. However, I have experienced a small issue with it during some of my latest drives. The previous owner has already told me about it and how he tried to fix it but it seems like the issue came back now. The problem is that with no consumers at all, the voltage shows about 13.6V both on the 12V interior socket and on a multimeter reading taken from the battery when the car is running. As far as I knew about this, the voltage should be around 14,5V when the car is running. When I turn on all the consumers, like main beam, high beam, fog lamps, climatronic to max, the voltage drops incredibly hard to almost 12.9V while the engine is running. 😔 I have noticed this issue because sometimes the rpm would go to 1000 rpm when not moving, and I guess it was some kind of protection so that the voltage would not drop even lower. I don't think it was the DPF regeneration which caused the 1000rpm increase, because it was happening far often that it should be. The previous owner told me that the alternator has been rebuild from scratch since he thought that was the culprit. The battery is almost brand new and he also did a test to it and there were no issues there either (there's none now also, with the engine off, the multimeter shows 12.9V on battery). He also told me that a wire, which came from the alternator (i guess) to the engine compartment fuse box (the one on the right side of the engine), was observed during an inspection to be worn out so he fixed it. Then he hold me that the issue was gone for that moment. I don't know how to check for more information but this is all I got for now. Maybe you can help me diagnose the issue even more. Thank you for your time and patience!