MassiveJim

If there was a 4wd petrol version I would definitely have waited and got it. I knew it would struggle with 300+ through the front wheels, I only got mine mapped in November though so haven't had any dry days to fully appreciate it yet. Considering an LSD, but waiting to hear a bit about other peoples experiences in my other thread. 4WD conversion would be nice I was considering an S4 when I bought this, but it would have been older with more mileage, and more expensive to run, also boot is tiny on the saloon, so went for the sensible option instead.

That might explain it then actually, the car park would be "off road" so when leaving it I am effectively entering the UK again

Which one did you go for ? How much did it cost inc fitting? Who fitted it ? How have you found it compared to before ?

333 thats good, I had stage 2 with full custom stainless exhaust and sports cat and silicon turbo inlet pipe, running on 99RON fuel hit 320 on the rollers. What power output did yours show before the remap ? Think from memory mine was 235 (that was with the exhaust and intake fitted obviously) How are you finding the power in the wet ? Can't put my foot down in 2nd, and have to be careful in 3rd As for the OP, I have a bit of a woosh noise in lower gears coming off boost now, I just assumed it was normal due to the higher boost we are running.

I seem to only get this when pulling out of the car park after dropping my daughter off at school. Anyone else seen this ? It pops up for about 30ish seconds then disappears again.

Nope, its owned outright Any idea on value ? I imagine the Cat will have more value than the rest of the exhaust Im in Derbyshire, probably 2/3 hours away, but then you are probably 2/3 hours away from anywhere (in the middle of nowhere) Don't think I'll be posting it. It's surely got to be worth more than scrap value ? I don't mind hanging on to it until after Christmas to be fair

Had a full S/S turbo-back fitted. Wondering how much the original CAT, centre silencer and twin rear silencers off my MK3 petrol VRS are worth. Car has done 52k so exhaust is in decent nick still.

we agreed on £50 extra instead of £100 Exhaust was WAY too loud, went from the standard exhaust to sports cat and 3" system through to a single silencer. I drove off and within a mile and a half I took it back, they added a resonator. Then I drove home, its awful to be honest, the cabin noise is really loud at certain revs, particularly around 1800 - 2200, which is the exact rev range 70mph in 6th puts you at. and also most town driving due to the car having the DSG box I was either doing 80+ or driving in 5th most of the way home. I think the actual issue in the first place may not have been the exhaust being too loud, just the cabin noise. Its now booked in to be looked at the week after next, i think they are going to swap the single backbox for twin ones like the original system. (not 100% sure on that though)

Currently sat in Wetherspoons waiting for the exhaust to be fitted. Arrived there this morning at 8am as instructed and Tony (who I spoke to previously) wasn't there but the guy fitting the exhaust said it had been written down as a decat, I explained I had been quoted £850 including sports cat and now he is saying that is wrong, it would normally be over £1000 for that and he is going to have to charge me £950. Bit annoyed to be honest, no proof of what was quoted as stupidly I didn't get him to email me the quoted price

Booked in with Tony Banks in October(the earliest they could do it) Initially when I asked that said it wouldn't be mandrel bent, but when he called back (after speaking to his octavia expert) said it would be mandrel bent. £850 all in for full system including sports cat and downpipe Car will be in there all day, so i just need to find a way to kill 8 hours in Leeds now.

more power (booked in to get it mapped) More noise (currently looking at exhausts( AWD, it struggles in the wet with 220, gonna be a handful with over 300

Get them to refurb them in full anthracite without the diamond cut face. They look so much better. Imo of course

Looking for a place to get a new exhaust fabbed/fitted. It seems that getting a custom exhaust fitted will be cheaper than going for the likes of scorpion / Miltek etc. Any recommendations around the midlands ? So far have quotes from JP Exhausts in Congleton (most expensive) John Ashley Walsall (recommended completely removing rear silencers which sounds odd to me) K'Ford Tyres in Kingswinford (doesn't do downpipes/ sports cat, so would probably work out more expensive to buy a scorpion/Miltek etc and have them fit it for me) Also MIJ in Walsall but heard some bad things about the quality of work down there.

Everything works correctly as if it were a factory option. There is some coding that needs doing in vcds i forgot about that in the guide, I'll add it in when I get chance, but the info is in the vcds sticky already, just need to also tick the option that says memory mirror installed. That was already selected on my replacement module.

DSG or not ? from what I have read the manual VRS clutch isn't really up to the job once remapped and uprated clutch is reccomended, but general conscious is that the DSG box/clutch is fine. Can't comment from experience though as only had mine 6 weeks and haven't gotten it mapped yet.

So I have now resolved this, have posted a guide here

I haven’t ever written a guide before so please bear with me I will try and keep this as short and simple as possible, and I won’t go into detail in every area as there are loads of guides out there already for door card removal etc. The main focus of this guide is the wiring side which is where I initially got stuck. I now have a fully working reverse dip mirror on my passenger mirror with no errors. I can confirm that this works 100% and you don’t need the memory module on the drivers side. If you later wanted to add power folding mirrors or auto dimming mirrors this module will handle that as well (although I don’t personally plan to add those and you would then also need the drivers side module) What you need: 1 – Memory mirror motor and wiring loom - 3D0959578C 2 – Memory door module - 5Q4959592B How to do it 1 – remove door card and door mirror 2 – replace mirror motor with new one 3 – snake the new wiring alongside the existing wiring and connect the additional wires into the 16pin connector that goes in to the door module 4 – change a few settings with VCDS Parts needed: Memory Mirror motor, part number 3D0959578C, The standard mirror motor has only 3 wires in its connector, the upgraded one has an 8 pin connector and uses 7 wires. I got this one from Ali express which includes the 8 pin connector and the wiring which was longer than I needed, also was pre wired with the correct pins on the end to insert straight into the 16 pin connector that goes in to the door module https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32350405340.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.49254c4dP8nHxR Memory door module, part number 5Q4959592B. I picked one up 2nd hand on ebay for £15, and there are loads on there. The job can be made slightly easier if you use a set of plastic trim removal tools like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12Pcs-Car-Trim-Door-Panel-Removal-Molding-Set-Kit-Pouch-Pry-Tool-Interior-DIY/154017521367?epid=12022344510&hash=item23dc28ded7:g:yXoAAOSwtPlbYVfh but it can be done without. Step1 - remove the door card, follow this guide Removing the mirror is easy, from memory there was just a single screw holding this in place, I managed to remove it with a torx bit, but that wasn’t the right bit. Once you have removed the mirror housing, you can strip the mirror down, replace the mirror motor with the new one and feed the new wiring through the mirror (just follow the old wiring). I then snaked the new wiring alongside the old wiring and wrapped it all in cloth tape. The exisiting connector was just tucked away but if you wanted to you could remove it. The Wiring I found a few guides on line with wiring instructions but none of them worked. A lot of them referenced pin 12, my module was missing pin 12 so I knew these guides weren’t for me. The wiring for me was as follows (16 pin is door side into the module, 8 pin is the connector that goes in to the mirror), there are a number of wires that go in to the mirror that aren’t on the motor connector, these should be left untouched. On the 16 pin module they are PIN3 – black/blue – common ground PIN15 – Red/black – heated mirror PIN11 – Yellow – indicator So onto the 8 pin connector Mirror controls, these 3 wires replace the original 3 wires, so these will need removing from the 16 pin connector. Mirror number, Colour, 16 pin connector number Pin2, White > Pin7 Pin6, brown/white> Pin5 Pin8, Red> Pin8 This leaves 4 wires yellow/white, blue/brown, grey/white, grey. These wires handle the x/y co-ordinates on the mirror, 1 set handles the position reporting, and 1 handles the return values, if you get these mixed up the mirror displays erratic behaviour and whenever it tries to move it will go in seemingly random directions, I resolved this by swapping around a couple of the wires and came up with this Mirror number, Colour, 16 pin connector Pin1, Yellow/White > Pin14 Pin3, Blue/Brown > Pin16 Pin5, Grey/White > Pin4 Pin7, Grey > Pin13 I have done these 4 from memory as I stupidly forgot to take note of the final wire positions before I put the door card back on. Untested are the other positions on the 16 pin connector (taken from a german forum), these might be useful in future for anyone wanting to add the other features 1 orange boarding spot + 2 black / gray mirror dimming 6 black / green mirror dimming 9 pink motor mirror folding mass 10 gray motor mirror folding +

More questions now I have had more of a chance to look at this. So the standard door controller definitely doesn't work, it only has enough pins to support the 6 wires that already go in to the mirror (3 for mirror, 2 for mirror heater, and 1 for indicator (Shares ground with heater) I bought a memory motor from ali express, and the pinout guide suggests that one of the pins from the 8 pin connector mirror side goes to pin 3 on the 16 pin connector, but that currently has the shared ground from indicator and mirror heater. I did see if the motor itself worked by putting the 3 mirror pins into my existing controller and it did but left right was reversed (I could probably live with this if everything else works ok) Did you buy your mirrors with looms, or did you have to do any of the wiring manually ? I'm getting a feeling I will have to buy a used mirror off ebay with the loom etc. o get this working, I am now waiting on a passenger side 5Q4 door controller to arrive to do some further testing.

@SashaGrace Do you happen to have the wiring diagram for the pinouts from the 8pin to the 16pin door connector ?

Thanks for that Sasha, Did you need another door controller then or did the standard one work ? I've found a guide for a Golf that only used the replacement motor but obviously that was a golf not an octavia

Amazing, Can you give me any more details ? I'm not bothered about folding mirrors (well not for £150 a pair anyway) i did check your Octavia mod thread but didn't see this mentioned in there. I have a proper Ross-Tech VCDS cable and have already activated the dipping mirror but as most people report it doesn't dip enough, does it need any further coding than what I have had to do to enable the "poor mans" version of this ?

@SashaGrace and @MagL3V Did either of you guys get this working properly ?

what did you glue it with ? surely these small plastic tabs must be available from somewhere