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Hello, I had typed a reply but doesnt seem to have posted,no its not just when clutch is pressed its anything really,i drove it today and got alot worse,cutting out and missing on aceleration,engine management light had came on so i was thinking ok thats some positive but after left car for 20 mins and restarted the engine management like disappeared so not sure if stored fault till can get to garage,but got alot worse for sure as i thought seemed to be when car got good running time but now even after 15 mins driving from cold it is shutting off and missing when driving 😞

Hello all again lol i have a skoda octavia 1.9 2009. 144k miles ...serviced recently and new fuel filter this week along with new timing belt .. so to start i broke down last Fri (8 days ago) it started by missing when acceleration and few miles later just conked out AA man cleared the fault and when garage got it they couldnt find anything wrong,the car was running fine and in fairness the mechanic kept it for 2 days himself and drove wicklow to wexford and no problems, i took it back on weds and id say i done 100 miles and was no trouble so i was due timing belt in few k miles so i brought it back thurs and got that done...collected thurs evening,no issues and went to work earlier,driving for around 3 hrs and same thing happened as previous fri when stopped,,just conking out usually when i was coming to a stop,it would restart each time but gradually as night went on it got worse,restarted all the times but the last time was bit harder to get it going,it feels like its missing when acceleration sometimes but not all...no engine management light up tonight,im thinking it hasnt even logged a fault because no engine management light...totally random it conks and then runs fine even coming to a stop,,,then just acts up again...pleaseeeeeeee has someone any ideas,my head is wrecked

Hello folks, I have been having issues on starting,it is very very intermittent meaning after 3 hrs driving it will just give problem,i changed ignition switch but did not help and no fault codes coming up at all,car is driving great and no other issues . i changed crankshaft sensor last yr,temp coolant switch,and starter..i might add i am by no means mechanical minded haha i done some investigating yesterday morning and found main earth lead was a bit corroded on the chassis under battery tray area which is connected to the gearbox from what i can gather research online,i cleaned it up and lastnight it just gave 1 start issue once after 4 hrs and went fine for another 4 after it...i think it has made a significant improvement, as i said im only an not great with mechanics and locations but can the other end of the earth lead which apparently leads to the gearbox be accessed from engine bay or do i need to go under the car?i have obviously no ramp,i have looked online but cant see any videos or steps to get the job done...any advice please ? and of course do you think the earth lead is the culprit ? before cleaning yesterday after a few hrs i would have been cranking quite hard to get it started. The video is lastnight after cleaning, (the oil like flashing is sensor which gone since before last service,the guy was meant replace sensor in sump BUT FORGOT) lol car start.mp4

Hi Aj,thank you for the reply i am not losing much now at moment,leak is very little fingers crossed stays thats way for while ha! yes the mechanic was saying may aswell change clutch while it is all out,just hoping will last few mths way it is,if leak gets worse and lowers oil right down while parked i might try another leak stop product just dont want to add now as added one already on full oil thats in it,as you say maybe try thicker oil if starts losing more as wks go forward,expensive job to get done so trying drag it along tks again for reply.

Cheers, no I wouldn't add additional stuff to oil, was great it had stopped leak for near two wks, then just started again. Literally just few drips now so will take while at that rate to need a top up but I will keep close eye on levels.

Haha oh seems have gone that way, I have it close to 3 yrs now and all problems just happened in row in last few mths :( runs great apart from this leak, just hope to get a bit of time before need to repair it, wondered has anyone had similar leak that's just kept leaking small for a while ha.. Well I'm praying

Hello, I have a slight leak coming from crankshaft at gearbox end,sorry im limited mechanically wise lol i had brought to garage a few wks ago and he suspected was coming from crank shaft seal,he removed pan cover(bottom plastic cover?) and got engine steam cleaned down as was fairly messy to be able to see better,in meantime i added a bottle of stop leak and leak stopped after a few days and there was nothing on sheets paper i was leaving nightly under engine so i thought wow this is a blessing but 2 days ago slight drip on paper like really small run,i brought car over to garage and confirmed crank shaft seal,he said he has seen these leaks stay very min for long time and as it is alot of money to repair which money is fairly tight at moment,so at present i have got the cover put back on and just going to check oil level regularly but im bit worried about it,anyone any advice on this?apparently gearbox,flywheel would need be removed to get seal replaced so i can see would cost alot,also he said be just aswell changing clutch while everything is out,i suppose im asking could i expect to get another while the way it is before job needs to be done? Thank you, car is skoda octavia 1.9 tdi mk2 2009 with 115k miles on clock.

Very good,tks

I really havnt a clue but im curious how does that work?sorry lol

sorry its 1.9 tdi,so the seal would not be gone from wear and tear you mean?have had no issues with temp or air flow ect,sorry i am not very good with mechanics of cars just basics.

Hello again 😞 I developed a leak which has been ongoing for few wks so it has got worse and brought to garage,I actually had 2 leaks,one at oil filter housing which is fixed now but noticing i still losing oil on ground i brought back to garage,leak is coming from crank shaft seal which he said the gearbox would have to be removed to replace the seal 😞 I know im looking for a miracle here but is there any cheaper option like a sealant or the leak stop solution?I'm guessing it would take a good few hrs labour to remove gearbox and replace the seal?anyone any ideas on time involved or rough price?I have the car near 3 yrs now and always serviced and looked after by me anyway,very disappointing as i've had a run of problems with it in last 6 wks 😞 has anyone had this problem before,is it common?Really appreciate any advice 😞 my heart is broken ha and my wallet.

Hi thanks for reply,problem was found today,apparently the timing had went out a bit 😞

Hi, was colour grey in it since I bought it 2.5 yrs ago so replaced with grey, why do you mention green lol? I have had it in diagnostic machines few times but no faults coming up whatsoever 😞 so puzzling cause problem just came into it overnight, it was starting extremely easy till 3 wks ago and cold starts are as normal, split second and fires

This the box so not sure how good this brand is, I wouldn't have thought be much difference? Again no fault logged

Hello, I am really really stuck on this now,4 wks ago my skoda octavia mk2 1.9tdi 2009 would not start when engine was hot,cold starts no problem whatsoever,since then i firstly changed fuel pump as i rushed into panic,did not work. So after searching through forums and forums and some mechanics,i have since changed the coolant temp sensor,the crankshaft sensor,and on friday changed the starter motor and also the fuel filter.also had battery tested and tried to start when engine was warm with power pack,all through this if i disconnect the coolant temp sensor the car starts hot or cold but i know im only by passing the problem doing this and need to get to the bottom of it. I am spending an absolute fortune and getting nowhere there is no fault codes coming up on diagnostic machine,the guy who done the starter on friday thinks it is the injector seals are worn and not getting enough compression to start when engine is hot,that all sounds real but my question is if it is the seals worn then how is it if im disconnecting the coolant temp sensor the car will start no problem,if the seals are the problem then why would disconnecting the sensor have any effect and would it not mean if the seals were the problem then the car will not start warm regardless of coolant switch been connected or disconnected?if there is a air gap created from worn seals surely that air gap will not suddenly seal if im disconnecting the coolant temp sensor?i can not afford to keep trying things and to be honest no sane person can keep pumping money into the car hoping the next fix will solve the problem,can someone please advise or help if have experienced this before ? Thank you for time to read big rant ,i dont think cutting wire looms and by passing the coolant sensor into tricking the ecu to think its cold starting is the answer,surely the underlying problem needs to be found?

Has anyone actually found the fix for this lol??? this ongoing with me for last 4 wks,have changed fuel pump,coolant temp sensor,crank shaft sensor,starter motor,checked battery,absolute madness! some say cut wires in and put in a bypass relay switch to trick ecu to think cold starts but seriously the problem must be something and solution surely isnt to cut wire looms and install a make shift button???

is that not masking a problem though?how did the problem suddenly come into the car 4 wks ago.I contacting a re-mapping company and they said the problem is mechanical and not software.

would that pass nct/mot test yearly though?

Jr I have changed the starter on Friday, the battery has been tested, crank shaft sensor was changed last Monday, I have took any advice on board and followed through.

This is actually a different mechanic lol he advised me not to change starter but i was convinced it was the problem,i just dont understand if it is the seals then how would disconnecting the coolant temp sensor by pass the compression problem if seals are damaged?are you thinking the battery maybe faulty when suggesting the bump start?i did check battery and tried to start with power pack when hot but no luck

Hello, I really need some advice,i have a hot start problem on skoda octavia 1.9 tdi 2009,i have changed coolant temp sensor,crank shaft sensor,fuel fitler,and now put in reconditioned starter but the problem is still present :( the mechanic thinks it is worn injector seals and not getting enough compression when warm/hot so will not start however if i have the coolant temp sensor disconnected it starts hot or cold,my question is if worn seals how would disconnecting the coolant temp sensor suddenly fill the gap where seals are worn and possible letting air in?if the problem is the seals should it not start when warm/hot regardless of sensor disconnected?apart from hot start the car runs prefectly fine,the problem came into it 4 wks instantly there was no lead up to bad starting whatsoever,starting cold it turns first turn,it has 118k miles on clock so fairly low milage.

Hi Hi,i went into a garage and he reconditions starters,he said it was unlikely the starter to be causing it and said injector seals could be worn well he was very confident lol,after so much research about the starter issue i said id go ahead and put re-conditioned one in it and after him saying the problem will still be there he went ahead and done it,soooooooooooo i have got good improvement with re-conditioned starter,it will start when hot whereas before i had to ,labour the starter,after a good 2 hrs back and forward driving though it would not start,i think i the starter was weak and in glad i changed but worn seals on injectors seem to be the rest of the problem probably the main problem so i will get the seals done,