pancakeroll

Can anyone share the BCM pinout for a Yeti? I can't find anything easily or complete using Google. If there is any difference, I am in need for a pre-face lift (2011) Petrol. TIA.

Thanks @Joel SHOEMARK this is a great guide. I've just bought a genuine fitting kit, like this one, as new old stock but it's missing the fitting instructions. Does anyone know where I could download/source a copy from?

Hi, I've just bought the genuine Skoda electrical components (wiring and controller) to fit a 13 pin towing connection into my Yeti from a lad locally. Everything is new, unopened in the box but it's came without the instructions. A case of he took it out years ago to read and it's now sitting somewhere in a box / pile of paperwork in his house and hasn't been located. I assume he's not going to find it any time soon or it's found it's way to landfill. So, is there a way for me to access this online as a pdf? I've recently bought a mk3 Renault Twingo and the fitting guide for every genuine upgrade / accessory is available to the public from Renault's website. No paywall or logins of any sort, no complicated conversations at a service desk to get access. Just go on and download - is there such a thing for Skoda? ...or somewhere else? I'm struggling to find anything. The kit I've bought is for a non factory tow prepped car. Thanks!

Can anyone provide the charge pressure lower stop / upper stop voltages for the 1.2 TSI, please. I've spent a whole evening looking online through various forums but have not found what VAG suggest they should be for each state.

I'm not fussed about what you wrote, I don't care. I'm focused on finding out info about this issue and fixing it and I wanted to clarify what I wrote, if it was not clear, and nip in the bud a possible pile on of evangelists come to tell me that I shouldn't expect a nine year old car to have issues. When that is not my point... You call your car "relatively new", but it's nine years old! So, "relative" to what? Do you really expect nothing to go wrong with a car that, to my mind, is relatively old? I don't think any other brand or model is likely to be much better. Flame ? - I'm just answering the above. As said, I have went through many cars not seen this many baked-in faults come to attention during ownership of them, so disappointing to find it with my first Skoda. You are framing me as angry / offended ??? ...I'm not. Perhaps it's all to do with the tone you read a post in. Cheers.

Thanks e-Roottoot With no "official" recall and the stories of dealerships fobbing off owners when alerted to the clatter from that thread, I would presume that many of these have not been addressed in the wild. Going forward, if I am reading what you are saying right - buy 03F198229A? - as mine is pre 11/2011 and fit. Should I buy the Revised Timing Cover and Oil Pump Chain? I read the convo about MANN-FILTER W 712/94 playing a part in resolving the issue. The kit for vehicles made after 11/ 2011 03F198158B seems to offer a lot more. Has anyone figured out why these extra bits are given in that kit and why some report more success with removal of noise and problems with 03F198158B on pre 11/2011 cars? I really do appreciate yours and anyone's help in finding the best solution for fixing this. Thank you and thanks for taking the time to respond to this.

Let me clarify. I know saying anything about the brand on a members forum is going to have certain members rushing out to protect it. So I better take the time... You call your car "relatively new", but it's nine years old! I am not saying my particular car has rolled off the production line but that the design and technology of the car is in the last 10 years - we are not dealing with Lucas stuff from the 70s. In terms of having inherent flaws baked in to "a service-free" item like the cam chain failing prematurely due to cost savings, that must have amounted to pennies, that is incredibly disappointing from a brand like Skoda and from a mother-ship like the Volkswagen Group. For it to be hidden both internally and a dealership level from owners previously is ridiculous even if the cost had been shared at 60/40 70/30 split to resolve. The games that Skoda played, from what I've read, at shifting costs for their mistakes / cost-savings to dealerships is appalling. The thought of a part like this failing in the fast lane of a motorway is ridiculous = this is an act of cost-saving beyond belief (that dies were used beyond tolerance). It's mispractice on a product which is far from cheap. Also it is quite obvious the brands under Volkswagen Group, Skoda in particular do share a lot of parts from their global parts bin. Therefore issues like the above and the speedo LEDs prematurely failing and continued to be used in other model platforms, thereafter, is inexcusable and should have been rectified. So, "relative" to what? To the cars I have owned over many years, most that have never been newer that 10 years when they have reached me. Currently we own cars which I would say do not have a reputation of reliability or friendly-ness to the bank balance. An old high mileage A4 (2006) and a second generation Smart Fortwo (2002). In the six odd years of ownership, of both, only repairs I can think of have been the belts for the Audi (done as it neared 100,000) everything else tyres, wipers, brakes and lightbulbs = 28,000 miles since I got it. Smart - clutch actuator (common), windscreen wiper linkage, tyres brakes and lightbulbs = around 20,000 on the Smart since we got that. Both had been dealer serviced previously and have been serviced by an indie Merc / Audi guy I've used for over 10 years on my cars after that. They start and stop and apart from leaving the lights on one time I've never needed a tow truck to visit either of them. Over that brands being French (Peugeot / Renault), british (Rover ...and MG), Hyundai and several early Volkswagen's. I think it's fair to say I can compare older old-old cars to what I consider a more recently designed car, which should have less issues than those ones did (at their some times high miles). The Hyundai without a doubt being the best of the bunch and never asked for anything in over 40,000 miles I put on it, over the 20,000 it came with - nothing needed other than servicing and tyres / brakes - which really does say a lot. My points of comparison across these failures (on the Yeti) is that seem all to be due to bad design or penny pinching not just wear or tear and were known or demonstrated to be a failure point then hidden by the Volkswagen Group and at dealership level. LED backlight cluster failure - I've not had one tungsten bulb fail on any car I can think of. Choice of fix is remove the cluster and replace it for new (£££s) / drive hundreds of miles to a recommended repairer to fix or for I to remove the dash cluster, break it down and remove and replace the cobs - thankfully I will be able to do that. As I've read that's happened across the Octavia and Fabia ...and Golf range = it's not hard to see this is another product of penny pinching. One Way Oil Breather Air Valve - poor design, commonly known to fail in early polos(?) as it's unsupported = why was it carried over in the same design to the Yeti and other newer cars? Turbo actuator failure - One of the guys at the Skoda parts desk said it was a common problem and in some cases can stick and fracture the turbo casing = new complete turbo. My mechanic had never seen one go (electronically) like mine had and thankfully was only water ingress or just poor manufacture / early failure. I've also noticed mine is missing the protection across the HT leads, which Skoda knew failed prematurely due to heat and replaced with an item (with protection) that they said was to stop rodents from chewing through them! So they didn't have to admit for a recall. regardless of mileage (which you don't disclose). Don't disclose? - wow you make it sound like I'm hiding that on purpose. Miles was just over 55,000 when I collected - which I think you will agree for a nearly nine year old! car is not at all high. Considering it was run by the one family since new and serviced at a respected local independent garage which have now retired, apart from a bit of previous light parking damage on the passenger front corner, 4 matching tyres, clean interior - it had all the hall marks of a well looked after family car. In terms of the chain I was interested to see "toothed belt" ticked in 2012 in the logbook, wondering if it had been picked up and "repaired" in a recall, it's only in recent weeks have I heard it start to clatter and through these forums made aware of it. The Turbo actuator failing gave me an opportunity to ask my mechanic who confirmed it. Do you really expect nothing to go wrong with a car that, to my mind, is relatively old? No, of course not! Do I expect that the failures I am experiencing now which are problems that were known about (over this model and others) at the time of manufacture and in terms of the chain months after it rolled off of the production line and for it not to be handled by a recall during the warranty period - yea that's bad. It sullys any repute of the brand and would make me consider (if I had the money) to never buy new from them. To be honest - I'm not interested in going back and forth the good and bad of makes, brands, models. I could waste hours saying one thing and someone else thinking another - I just want to find what is the best steps to sort this car out now and I welcome advice on that subject and not anyone else jumping in on the subject feeling I've soiled the name of Skoda and that I'm bang out of order to yadda yadda a nine year old car. Cheers.

Awesome - okay great... Thank you! I will keep that in mind when I next phone them! Cheers!

Chaps! Thanks I've been held up with work + life, cars not turned a wheel since it's came back and I've finally had a chance to read that whole thread. e-Roottoot - thanks! I'm a lot more clued up but not fully for going forward. Considering I've been knocked by several of the "known" issues with the Yeti in the first few months of ownership - I can't say I'm impressed at the early stages of having the car. From rust on the drivers door ...I now know what zink inclusion is! = (a common problem). LED behind the speedo needle failing ...the day I drove it home! = (a common problem). One Way Air Valve on the breather hose breaking ...a couple of days later! = (a common problem). Turbo actuator failure = (a non-common problem)? I await the Loom to go in the drivers door. ...and now to find out about this, I'm stunned, never had so many known issues on what is to be fair a car that is relatively new from a brand who should know what they are doing using parts that have been surely in circulation in other VAG part bins. So picking myself up from this, what should I do? It seems from what you are saying e-roottoot is that I should fit 03F198229A as my car - I believe and will double check is a build date of early 2011. But from that thread there is also a suggestion that this could not be a complete fix and that 03F198158B can be fitted to my pre Nov 2011 and this "repair kit" has more opportunity to fix the issue? I'm also looking at needing... MANN-FILTER W 712/94 = Oil Filter? 03F109 210C = Revised Timing Cover? (perhaps not if I fit B?) 03F11522 = Oil Pump Chain Castrol Edge 5-30w 504.00 = Complete Oil Change "special grease for the camshaft and sealent for the cam cover" = ??? - User, MiniMoke I'm going to check the air filter and see if mines is a "M" or "S" in the meantime. Thank god for forums like this and people like you guys who understand all this stuff. I really appreciate your help on this. Thank you.

Hi J.R. I was just searching about upgrading the battery on the Yeti, is the 096 battery the one to go for, to replace the original? I see you're running a 4x4 - diesel? I have a 1.2 petrol but would assume the bay is a shared VAG part amongst them all? I also wanted to ask about the plastic box did you find an answer in the end? Thanks!

I bought a Skoda Yeti (2011) fitted with a CBZB engine. A recent failure of the turbo actuator has had the car in the garage, discussing the clatter on start up with my mechanic of 10 years we've both decided the chain should be changed asap, the discussion was to get genuine Skoda/VAG parts for the change over. I'm not driving the car until I've worked out what to get - that's where I've became a bit stumped. I saw a kit online... https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/collections/skoda-engine-parts/products/skoda-timing-chain-kit-repair-kit-timing-chain-1-2-tsi ...but a quick chat with the service manager of the local Skoda dealership says this code is not compatiable with the build week of my car ... this kit only covers cars built later on in the year (chain, tensioner and sprocket codes don't match coming up ending in J rather G, if I remember correctly) and his system says it's not compatiable as is pointing me to all the parts as seperate items. Seems a world of information about this engine and the timing chain issues with it, getting a bit lost in my old age. Can someone point me in the direction of more to read / help me out? Cheers!

Thanks! Turned out the original turbo actuator was electronically reading incorrectly and bringing everything down by 5 volts. A new turbo actuator fitted later and it's sorted. I now have to sort out the chain which is starting to clatter and I would like to fit an uprated battery too for the winter. Preferably the largest Varta/Bosch that I can, as I don't have much trust in the Halfords one currently in there.

We fitted a dash cam yesterday with a battery monitoring box. Car was fine and we had it running off and on while fitting. Next day - got to the bottom of the street, stutters and off it goes with EPC light showing. Standing voltage of the battery was 11.8V VCDS is showing the following... 1 Fault Found:6557 - Sensor Reference Voltage B P0653 00 [036] - Voltage too High Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 90738 km Date: 2020.08.24 Time: 20:30:31 Engine speed: 1228.00 /min Normed load value: 8.6 % Vehicle speed: 0 km/h Coolant temperature: 30 °C Intake air temperature: 24 °C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.116 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Engine speed: actual: 1216 /min Readiness: 0110 0101 I tried jump starting (from another car) I notice that it's switching off (EPC illuminates) when the choke goes in. Therefore I'm thinking the battery is weak and I'm running on the alternator, when the choke goes the base level of the battery is consumed completely and is not receiving a charge strong enough, and this is throwing up the EPC error. Strangely (and don't knock me if I'm wrong here) it still cut out while the other car was connected, I would have assumed it shouldn't have done that as the other car was providing charging or is it that there is just not enough risidual charge in the battery to keep the engine going? I'm also wondering if this is a sign of a HT lead fault as other describe with EPC light? I'm considering tomorrow (in daylight) removing the battery and sticking it on a trickle charger to see where we go from a fully charged battery. I'm on street parking. So will I have issues locking / unlocking the car after battery is remove. I'm planning on locking all doors using central console button (MFD to manual unlock). Remove battery lock with drivers door and when return unlock with drivers door. Also with the battery removed do I have the potental of the alarm going off. I've ran an Audi before and I'm aware there is back up battery on the alarm sounder. It looks from research tonight - The Yeti is the same. As I'm several streets away I wouldn't want the alarm sounding as I will have no way of knowing. Thanks in advance.

Can anyone help or point me at the right topic. I've picked up a 2011 Yeti with a Bolero fitted but no bluetooth. I already have a Ross-tech cable so can code it in but I'm not sure which BT module to buy. I see many of different ones on eBay and the cable set. Can anyone advise which of the VAG boxes would provide BT Handsfree and streaming capabilities to the Bolero. Thanks!

I collected a Yeti a few weeks back. Yesterday got in the car and just before I pulled off, gave the windows a "skoosh" right in front of a chap as he was crossing the street. Next thing he comes over arms flying... "there's fluid coming out the bottom of your car!" Peek under the bonnet to find the headlight washer hose had blew off. Knowing the bumper had been off before I bought it, I'm sure the last garage hadn't connected these properly. Question is should the blue collar on the hose connected be in or out to secure ...the other side is pushed in - considering that this one blew off I'm not sure if that's right or wrong - can anyone advise?