Malch0

Group is same. Group number 10 for bleeding Group number 25 for adaptation

Yes. That is correct for bleeding procedure. It is same. You can see the all procedure

Ok. So I have found same abs modul. Got it on thursday. Today, I started this morning with work to change module. I needed to put jack under motor, I needed to unbolt right and central engine mount in order to be able to get DPF off, and have more access to abs module. Then I unscrewed abs module, got it off, then putted the used one I got on friday, got DPF on again. And reverse procedure. That change of abs module took me 4 hours. Now I have to do coding, adaptation, abs bleeding and steering assist calibration.

Hi all, Since I need to replace my ABS module/pump on my Yeti, and I will probably try with fitting used one, do I just need to get the part that has the same modul number 1K0907379AJ, and get it coded afterward? Or I have to get the abs module/pump where pump part also has same number?

Ok guys. Thanks for the tips and all. I have isolated issue. It is not battery but actually it is issue with abs modul. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt. All other faults are related to abs, after abs shows fault. Now, I know I can change abs module, and it needs coding (long coding) after it is changed. Question is can I use pre-owned abs modul for Audi A3, or Golf mk6 that have same markings 1K0907379AJ?

Left it and measured curent draw according to the diagram. Everything is within specs. I guess it is time to go to electric guy and confirm it. After that, I guess next point will be to have battery checkes under warranty?

Thanks. I got thw point 😉

I checked it while car was running. Now I left the car parked and after 2 hours I will check voltage draw Thanks

Battery coding is not possible. No available channels on CAN gateway. Also I get 14V while car is running on terminals. Battery is new and under warranty. Maybe I should change it under warranty. All points to low voltage before ignition. ABS Module also show deffect, but after ingnition and after I clear codes related for no communication with ABS, everything works. I diagnosed sensors afterward and all is fine. Everything points to voltage issue, but I dont know what to check if there is some voltage drain after car is parked

Ok. Checked all the things and battery disturbed me. 10.54V on battery Either battery is defected, either there is smth that drains it while car is parked

thanks. since it is sunday, i will try to do all you suggested: - after I disconnect ABS ecu connector is it possible to clean it with contact cleaner? - ABS fuse on side of dashboard and the main one under the hood? should I change it both? - how to perform load test of power and ground connections to the ABS module?

That was the first thing I checked, and since battery was original, I changed it. Now since ABS is sometimes working without fault and sometimes not I have suspicion that maybe somewhere there is short ground. I do not know if navigation short ground can be related to that Or can the yaw rate sensor can be the cause?

Battery is 2 months old. I have changed the battery but no battery coding was done

Few months ago I started to have problem where ABS, ESP yellow warning lights are on and brake red light was blinking with distinctive 3 beep sound. I checked for brake liquid level, but found nothing there. Then I changed battery since it was original one (10 years) old. After that I was having this problem only when car was resting for few hours. Today I got VCDS diagnostic scan (I attached complete vehicle scan file), erased faults since first fault was voltage problem. Does any one have idea what would be the cause of the problem??? Also I noticed problem on navigation that is related to "short ground", how to resolve it? Log-TMBLD95L6A6027128-259870km-161475mi.txt

Navigation is irrelevant. I took out the SD card with map