gromr123

New Barrel in, and it works a treat. Was testing the chinese one on the bench and sure enough it doesn't re-engage the lock when you remove the key. Something in the mechanism is sticky, you have to give it a bit of a wack before it clicks off. The proper VAG ignition barrel is a much higher quality part, it's night and day. Moral of the story here is that cheaping on some parts often doesn't pay off.

Still would have been more than I've spent so far, by quite a margin. I'm an engineer, so tinkering and fixing is what I do, I don't mind getting my hands dirty, fixing it and learning from mistakes. The Amazon one got me out the woods as I could get it next day, meant I could drive to work the next day. However long term it's clearly not a viable solution.

Slight update on this. The Amazon special ignition I bought on Prime is starting to play up. When you remove the key the ignition doesn't actually click off without having to twiddle the end of the ignition barrel. Figured I'd just bought a cheap nasty aftermarket barrel, so I've bought a used ignition from a Skoda breaker that is much much smoother than the junk tier one I bought. However there is one slight difference, it appears to have an extra solenoid on it. From some Googling it appears it's from an automatic car and is to stop the key being removed until the car is in park. However my car being a manual I guess I can just leave it disconnected and it will not cause any issues? Could remove it completely too.

All fixed. The ignition switch it self appeared like it wasn't clocked in the right position, so wasn't sending a signal. Reset it, checked it with a multi-meter, and re-assembled and car now starts! ESP light has gone now too, I think that occurs when you disconnect the battery and it goes off after about 100 yards.

That would make the most sense, especially as I've had it all apart. It's certainly possible that the switch hasn't be put back together right, or is simply just broken. Hopefully the new barrel will solve it.

Hi and thank you! Nah absolutely nothing happens, no sound, no clicking of solenoids. Leading me to think it's more of a immobilser issue as the car isn't even trying to start.

Yesterday I went to start my Yeti, and the key didn't want to turn in the ignition, there was quite a bit of resistance. I gave it a bit more force and the key turned, and the car started. However, now the key wouldn't turn back, meaning the car wouldn't turn off. It felt like if I forced the key, it would snap. It's a Manual 170 4x4, so I stalled the car in gear to turn the cut the engine and called the AA. The AA guy said that the ignition barrel was broken and needed replacement. I was quote £300 for a new one. I decided to give it a crack myself as it seems it's pretty common and plenty of replacement parts and guides out there. I removed the steering wheel, airbag, the stalks and then the barrel. I used a chisel to loosen the anti-tamper bolts and dropped down the barrel. Then used a little bit of a metal to release the locking cylinder from the barrel, which allowed me to finally remove the key. Then I drilled out the little metal cover on the barrel which allowed me to fully disassemble the barrel. I reassembled it all again, and now the key turns properly. Now I'm not sure if it's 'fixed', but the mechanical movement of the barrel seems to be working again now. However after re-assembling the entire barrel and steering wheel assembly, the car won't start. Ignition turns on and off as expected, but I get a 'ESP: error' and when I try and start the engine, nothing happens and the dials just turn off. I checked the battery voltage and it seemed a little low, so I charged the battery and now it's fully charged an on 12.8V. However no change. I do have a aftermarket barrel on order, which should be here in a day or so, so I'll try that soon. Is there any other reason I would be getting this error? Could it be an imobiliser problem with the key transponder?

Every since I got my Yeti 4x4 170 almost a year ago, it's on the rare occasion stalled immediately on startup and flashed up "Engine Fault: Workshop". Then if I turn off the ignition and restart the car it always starts up no problem. I've since had the software rolled back to pre-emissions fix and had a remap applied, which I did wonder if it would make the problem disappear, but it's not been the case. I'm not sure if there's any real pattern to it, doesn't seem to be temperature related. It might happen once every 2 months, might happen once every few weeks. Again it's not a regular issue, but I'm not sure if it's the early signs of something going, EGR etc. Not had a chance to get it plugged in and have any fault codes pulled, which may well help diagnose the cause, Anyone experienced the same?

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I've been experiencing this on my 2010 Yeti. Fans blow nicely for a short while, but then it seems to taper off until the flow is next to nothing. I can crank the fan speed right up and it doesn't really change the amount of air that blows out the vents. It also seems to make a bit of a weird Woooshing noise as if the airflow is being partially blocked. I tried the 'Recalibration' trick, but it didn't fix it. I assume the Fan Flaps aren't behaving as they should do, but whether it's the flaps themselves or whatever is controlling them I'm not sure.

Hi all, I've got a 2010 Yeti 4x4 170. It's been having issues with the clutch losing pressure slowly. A few months back the pedal stayed on the floor after a motorway stint and I ended up having to bleed the clutch from the master cylinder under the airbox which sort of fixed it, but not much air came out. However there was still a fair bit of dead pedal travel and it felt a bit 'off'. That was a couple months ago and today I'm noticing the clutch starting to feel a bit soft again when it comes back up, similar to how it did before the pedal stayed on the floor. I happened to be dropping the little Mx5 off at a garage today and spoke to the mechanic about the Yeti, who turned out to be ex-VW. He said it was very likely the slave cylinder leaking which is quite helpfully inside the gearbox. If this needs replacing then you'd be looking at gearbox off, and obviously you might as well change the clutch and DMF too. £845 is the best quote I've got so far. Has anyone had this issue? It's still got pressure, but seems to be losing it very very slowly overtime. The pedal has about 2 inch of travel before it engages which feels pretty weird, it hasn't gone away with bleeding. Annoyingly Its come up a day before we are due to go away to Yorkshire for the weekend, so I'm hoping I can re-bleed it later to nurse it along a bit longer until I can get it to a garage next week. Thanks

I've just picked up a 2010 Elegance in 4x4 with the 170hp engine. It's an absolutely fantastic car and drives very nicely. I'm now looking at changing the head unit for something a little more modern. The general concusses is that the RCD330 plus is the go-to plug and play headunit for this kinda era of VAG cars. Seems to tick all the boxes and is pretty affordable. No DAB is a little annoying but it'll certainly be a massive step up from the Bolero unit that's in the car currently. Has anyone fitted one to this year or Yeti and could confirm whether it work with the steering controls, the parking sensors etc. Where is the best place to buy one from? Aliexpress/ebay is cheap but I'd rather order one from closer to home If it doesn't cost a fortune more! Thanks