Funkystanley

Thanks Softscoop. Its a Sachs clutch, which i'm led to believe are good quality. I did return it to the installer, a reputable guy in Sheffield, and he said he carried out tests according to VW/Skoda guidelines, and that it wasnt slipping......according to the results of the test. He did say that the rear brake being 'stuck on' might have caused the 'difference in performance'. Needless to say ive now paid £370 to have the caliper, pads & disk replaced......but still have a slipping clutch. I'm going to call the guy today actually.

Hi all i had a clutch and pedal assembly fitted about four months ago and recently its been slipping when put under a bit of load (mainly 3rd & 4th gear) at 2000rpm, just before turbo kicks in. I took it back to the installer and he told me he's tested it according to VW/Skoda recommendations and there's nothing wrong with it. The offside rear brake caliper however, was catastrophically seized so pads, disk and caliper needed replacing. He suggested that maybe the clutch slip was due to the brake locking on! I sort of agree with that theory but didnt think (non-knackered) clutches were that weak that a binding brake would cause it to slip. The car rolled ok on the flat! I had the brake sorted but drove the car away and the clutch is still, what i believe to be, slipping. The engine hits 2000rpm, rises rapidly to 3250rpm then (keeping the gas pedal at the same level, ie, not dropping off the gas) once the road speed catches up a bit, drops back by 500rpm.

I'm thinking the same Urrell. Many manufacturers use third party suppliers anyway and i've heard VAG use either Sachs or LUK.

Ok, i've got a couple of quotes back from Autohaus Dolby (which i'm happily going to use). On for £590 for a Sachs kit and one for £675 for genuine VAG kit. Which one would folks go for? I believe Sachs are supposed to be good but would it be better to go for the genuine VAG for 80quid more? I'm keeping the car long term so would prefer to not have to worry about the clutch again.

No fluid leaks Gissin

Yes, its a 5-speed. What is the CSC btw?

Ahh, yes, 'common rail'....wondered what the CR stood for. Not sure what trim it is actually. Its not slipping yet but has been heavy (putting pressure on the pedal) for some time and now when i dip the pedal it feels as though i've got a floor matt stuck under it. I'm sure that i've seen somewhere that the stealers are quoting £1100!

Its on 112k and 9 years old. I do a lot of town work tbh and live in the hills of Sheffield so the clutch does get a bit of a hammering. I'm hoping to take it to a place called AutoHouse Dolby in Sheffield as they have a good name. They're highly thought of on UkPassats. Or theres a place called VolksTek in Dronfiled (between Sheffield and Chesterfield). Ever heard of these mate?

That trucks DEFO gonna fail its MOT.....did you see the tread on the nearside front tyre??....it was well below the legal limit!!

Cools, thanks Gissin. If i take it to a trusted indy i hope they'll advise if the DMF is bugg3r3d, and replace that at the same time. I've read on some forums (UKPassats) that sometimes the solid mass replacements can be a bit iffy and not give the reliability of the DMF, is the success rate with the Octavia better then? Sorry for posting in the Yeti forum, i thought i'd posted in the Octavia forum (cant get the hang of this technology thing)

Umm...not sure. Isnt it 'CR'?

Its the 1.6TDi CR 105bhp.....i believe its the 1Z?

I'm not sure if it is or not Urrell,but it would be great if it was as they're bloody expensive arnt they.

Hi all. Can anyone recommend a good indie to swapout the clutch on my 2012 1.6TDI CR Octavia? Anywhere around the Sheffield/Derbyshire area would be great. Also, rough prices and any other useful info. etc. would be great. I'm assuming its best to get clutch kit, DMF and slave cylinder all done at the same time?? Cheers Rob

Sadly theres no instructions (or very minimal) but yes, thats what the vendor said. Yellow for memory,switched (red) and ground (black). Its a YYKJ brand double din unit YYKJ Headunit. I'll try and get some pics when its light outside.

Thanks for the reply Langers. I've installed a new live from the fusebox but i'm assuming then that the red and black are to be left in the plug?where does the new ignition live connect to? Whats a CAN simulator?where can i get one of these?easy to install?

Ok. Finally found some time to try and get the stereo working. I contacted the vendor who advised to put a ignition live to the red cable of the new HU and a ground to the black cable of the HU. Did that but now get no power at all (fuse8 checked and replaced) . I pulled the pins from the plug of the new HU to create ignition live and ground connections, would this cause no power? would i have to cut the car loom (where the red and black cables connect to) to create the ignition live and ground? I've got a wiring diagram which shows the pins on the car loom having a 'canbus +' and 'canbus-', would these be the ignition live and ground that i need? I've also looked at possibly needing one of these ISO adapter would it just be easier to create new pins and put them back in the socket to use this?

A 15amp fuse under the bonnet blown, the good lady is mobile again now. Thanks Liger. Stereo dosnt work at all now.....but thats something i can work on in time.

I havnt. Thanks for that Liger1956.....will pop out now.

Hi everyone. I'm in desperate need of some help please as i've killed the other 'alf's car I installed an Android based double-din head unit to replace the Swing head unit and was attempting to get it to power off with the ignition. I pulled a pin from the connecting socket that had a '12V' identification in the wiring instructions but now i've plugged the head unit back in and tried to switch on the ignition (and was hoping this would provide power to the head unit only when the ignition was switched on) but now it's dead.....no lights on the dash when i either insert the key or turn it (to engage the starter). I was thinking i might have blown a fuse while fiddling with the wires to the stereo loom but i've checked them all and none are blown. Anybody any ideas please? does anybody know which fuse would deal with general ignition?

Cool. Thanks for your replies guys. I've got a full sized spare so will swap it over to see if this helps at all and then drop the offending one in at AP then. Cheers Rob

Cool,will do.

Hi all. Can anybody recommend a good wheel repair company near the Sheffield area please? I was driving home in the snow (thanks, council, for not gritting the roads.....despite snow being forecast) from work on Friday and the front end locked up as i was entering a left hand corner at low speed. My offside front wheel hit the kerb square on and bottomed the spring out and now despite it driving fine, i get a resonant hum on most road surfaces at anything above 45mph. I'm thinking the wheel is buckled slightly. No other symptoms apart from the humming. Want to try and nip it in the bud before any strains are placed on wheel bearing or CV joint.

Drilling three holes about 7 or 8mm in diameter will allow you to get a waxoil flexi lance into the sill and then poke the lance around reaching all the areas while blasting the gunk at some increased pressure. Drill them centre and about 150mm from each end, at the lowest edge of the sill. Dont forget to rust-proof the holes properly (seperate issue altogether but epoxy resin, albeit a bit expensive for these small areas is ideal) before plugging with some simple rubber grommets to stop water ingress once the fluid is injected to your satisfaction. Good idea to plug the two other holes while injecting into one also so that you get a good flood into all areas. Take a look at rust.co.uk as they have a new product that allows you to flush cavities out prior to treatment that primes/treats any existing rust. I now a thing or two about how to fend off rust as i own a 1962 VW Karmann Ghia AND converting a 12year old VW Crafter into a campervan.

Having taken a torch and my best reading glasses i think i might be able to remove the little white plugs with a plastic trim removal tool.....they're pretty gunky under there.....good detailing brush and some APC will get them nice and clean me thinks.