LesCM19

I've put the old droplink back on until I can find Nylocs to replace the nuts that came with the new ones that keep coming undone, even with another nut on top. Not normal M8 threads that's for sure.

Regarding fitting a new droplink, why does it say in the Haynes manual to only tighten the bolts with the car on the ground?

Whatever the local tyre garage did while I was at work this morning lasted all of 2 miles which begs the question "what did they actually do that made it go away and why didn't it last?" Yes they did the droplink up to (presumably) the correct torque but that's all. Anyway, for the sake of £17 of their labour (15 minutes) I do feel a bit vindicated now in terms of my own mechanical 'skills'.

Well, after popping a new drop link on the n/s and putting the calipers temporarily back together with the old "bolts" I wasn't surprised during a test drive when a new metal on metal knocking developed after a mile or so, more noticeable at slower speeds and hardly at all when cornering. A bit like when the exhaust was contacting the subframe but more tinny and not through the floor, more like top of the wing from inside. "That'll be the rubber sleeve I damaged letting the metal bush touch the caliper" or so I thought, with the noise coming up through the strut however it's still there after fitting the new pin kit. Sounds like a floppy shock and there does seem to be more movement in the spring on that side when I grope around with the car being bounced but could it be the drop link? Not being able to get my bloody great torque wrench in there I just did it up as tight as I could. And can a ropy shock fail just coz the car's been jacked up and the suspensions been dropped down a bit?

Brilliant news, at least I know I've got the correct pads.

The look like they should be parts of the front/rear window controls, from under the switch, the square brass things sitting on the greenish circuit board and the rubber pad on top. But then it needs to go into the switch assembly. This might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpAiCz8Ftgw

Reading this, I'm curious as to how you manage to make the car go backwards at all.

My 2007 1.2 12V used to go into limp mode occasionally under heavy load (eg blasting through roundabouts) until I changed a coil pack which appeared to have been cracked and "repaired" with a soldering iron. Changing the plugs also stopped the uneven idle it always had, to the extent it would often cut out idling in traffic.

Will do. Just to reiterate about the gap with the pads, in that picture of the top of the nearside brake unit, the top ear of the outer pad on the left in the pic is snugly sandwiched between hub & caliper whereas the inner pad is only touching the hub. Just seems odd how it's not touching the caliper too. Seems to work ok.

Didn't have any problems getting the "custom" bolts out but had to trim the rubber sleeve off the offside too. This was the top bolt on the offside as I found it. Obviously too much effort was required to nip it up. I suppose he might have been a bit wary of it contacting the pad, it does come right through the caliper if done up 'properly'. By the way, does that inner pad look right to you guys? There's about 5mm clearance between both 'ears' and caliper body, top & bottom. It's the same on the nearside and the outer pad in the photo wouldn't fit in the inner position anyway. ...and then when I refitted the nearside I noticed he'd helpfully added his own plastic sleeving to the top bolt bush. Literally carved from a Fairy liquid bottle or something. Brakes are actually great as always. Knocking noise I wanted to investigate while replacing discs (I suspected a rattling caliper after reading this post, especially as it seemed to stop under braking) seems to be worse, more like a duff shock now. Maybe shock is under different forces as I'v done the droplink on that side, too. But will invest in a caliper bolt/bush kit first obviously

Bottom bolt is 12mm head. Oh well, it's off now 🤣

Had look with a mirror beforehand and true enough, it's not an Allen key hex head it's a normal bolt 🙄 which is what was puzzling me.

Well, precisely. Haynes manual says remove protective rubber things, they're like a sleeve over the bolt head that goes right inside, hence my difficulty in getting them off. Sleeve over bolt head means can't get a socket on 🤔 2nd photo shows one partly out bit it ripped in the process 😎

Having trouble with the 7zap website, not accepting my Vin this time 😒, are these the right ones for FSII calipers? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281216735752?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Cars+Type%3A1.2|Plat_Gen%3AMK+I|Cars+Year%3A2007|Model%3AFabia|Variant%3APetrol+Hatch|Engine%3A1198cc+47KW+64HP+AZQ%3BBME|BodyStyle%3AFWD+I+6Y2&hash=item4179d2da08:g:ebgAAOSwqglhl7a~&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAO%2Fh%2BkKaiqBxny%2Fsg4pgsFZfHTX2o%2B%2F2xRmPiHyazjWdBxLCbuTaEp7N2sWMPcbCVLPbRukBkCZDmwJvThkt1FhbvCDI6OrdXIW9CKTB3hxlMkZk80H4EY%2Bc6fr7%2FZvQ3IJdWGYykbfZFhj2lrdoxddp126n2YMSaNdWwNEoamFXW%2FCwVa8zo6BGQDAzg3jItPECX8agT3O93p6mvLBmQSVgMUMgGI2KyC9yw%2Bg1sXa6BW0eOp%2BIqIAQHTb2cN4uxSrM5inCx5HXsy1NZgwJtE7d9DQdheJOOqtM8pgB7UzKQYmZxIF05Y6TqP7Qmh0Fd1n%2BELL9lzpTEV9AQKfWYJM%3D|tkp%3ABFBMrtKVrLJj Ideally if someone can give me the part number that would be awesome. And is there a trick to getting them off without ripping? They go down the bolt shaft a way?

Maybe they just reused the old nut? The offside is well rusty compared to this. I'm not doubting that they changed it but it looks like the boot has slipped out of the groove in one place and off.