DataLog

Oh ok. Well, I believe that the engine is not tuned up well in general. It's probably running rich. I can sometimes smell raw gasoline at idle. I thought that it determines the mixture based on air intake temperature and intake air pressure. However, I don't see how to fix this if everything seems to be within normal values. I checked with a scan tool. Is there anything else I could check?

So, it's problematic only if it lights up?

Coolant temperature sensor is good. I'm not sure how it would affect oil smell. Also, a year has passed since replacing the coolant and it didn't move a milimeter. So, everything about that is good. I noticed the gasoline smell when I went to randomly check my oil level. But I remember noticing that the level is too high on the dipstick a few days ago when I changed the oil, so that's why I'm also asking if this could cause the smell problem. Could it be a bad fuel injector? Also, my car is often driven in the city and short relations. Is there something else I could check to gain more data?

I didn't put it in Fabia mk1, because I thought it's a general car topic. Still, my main question is about the gasoline smell. I'm not sure whether it is normal.

I checked when barely warm, because otherwise oil is sticking to the dipstick and I can't see properly. But after 5 shots I can read it. I've seen what's the max, and I'm telling you that mechanic put too much (1cm above a point). I was wondering if that could cause any damage that would contribute to gasoline smell in the oil. My main concear is whether this is normal or not. Thanx!

I was wondering whether you can smell gasoline in your oil. I haven't noticed it before, however I wasn't really smelling it that much. I drive my car often on short relations. The dipstick is very difficult to use in my car because oil is all ower it, but I believe that my mechanic put too much oil few weeks ago (about 1cm over the line) . Could that be an issue?

Interesting. I have seen that many newer cars have ECU restriction if EGR is disconnected. In my case there was no noticeable effect on performance, but there is a noticeable effect on fuel consumption. It's not much, but it's measurable.

I think that the best way of testing this is to put a measured amount of fuel in the car and just measure the distance traveled until it's spent. I don't trust the mpg meter that much...

I have to add on the topic that so far EGR delete had significant impact on increasing mpg. It should be also important to note that my EGR didn't seem to have any issues prior to this test. This is, however, first 140km and I will keep testing it for at least 1000km because there could be some error. I also have to add that in that small period of time my car has been idling alot (because we had earthquakes) and it was turned on and off many times.

Thanx! I have already used this chart and that's how I calculated that the rim I want to buy will stick out by 1 inch (based on et number and width). I am not planning to go with ultra thin sidewall, as I will convert it to new dimensions accordingly and make it as thick as 165/70. With higher width, the thickness as a number can be less and remain the same because number 70 is percentage of number 165.

Made a mistake, it is Skoda lol

Thank you, that was actually what I needed. I'm not sure, but I can assume that Skoda would behave similarly to this Seat. I will be looking for Skoda/VW 6.5 max then.

Thank you for the support.

Sorry man, but I am fully aware of the physics behind this, coefficient of inertia and weight distribution. This topic has nothing to do with increasing the efficiency of the vehicle. I am looking for a new set of wheels that I will occasionally use for tests. I will be buying multiple sets of wheels with different weight distribution characteristics. I am not looking for extra power on this engine, and I wasn't asking for it. I'm a chemist with quite a bit of experience in programming and automatization. I'm new into cars, but I'm not unaware, and I make sure that I search for every bit of information I can find on the topic. As an addition, I try to ask questions to clarify things that require experience. I wasn't looking for what's optimal, I was looking for what will fit. I am not sure how you managed to misunderstand this topic, and I am very sorry for that. This is not my first time doing a project, in house, with limited resources. I can't go into VW and ask them to do testing on their vehicles without any prior knowledge or experience. When I want to do something new, or work for a different company, I acquire new skills on my own and get there. Can't stay in one place for a long time, because my hobby is optimization. And there is only so much you can optimize in a company before it becomes boring. If you feel like I'm wasting your time, don't react to the topic. Also, don't waste my time with useless information I didn't ask for. You are a type of person who just waits to "punk" someone he thinks is clueless. You will lose all your friends that way.

I have adjustable shocks. I want to get rid of sidewall flex in the cornering.

I agree. However, my main goal is achieving better handling. Thick and narrow tyre (such as the one I have now) has a lot of flex in cornering. My current profile is 23.1 inch diameter total (rim + tyre). I have taken measurements and I can go to about 25 inch comfortably. So the thickness will be there, that's not the problem. My concern is whether wider wheel (7inch) with the same offset (35mm) as stock 5 inch wheel will fit on the brakes. I found that Fabia models also come with 6 inch ET 37 and ET43. I'm just not sure if it will fit 7 inch ET35 (because this will cause the rim to stick out by 1 inch). I am not concerned about the wrong speedometer reading due to overall diameter increase (however it will probably be precisely on point when I increase it).

My Fabia is currently equipped with 5Jx14 ET35 rims (57.1mm hole). I was wondering if it could take 7jx16 ET 35 rims. I couldn't find any specification as to how much tolerance is allowed. This would make the rims stick 2.5cm more. It wouldn't bother me, and it seems to me that there is enough space (current wheels are a little bit inside), but I'm not sure if there would be any problems with the brakes or steering. Also, would there be any problems with drum brakes. If those rims would cause problems, what kind of problems would they cause? I need somewhat quick answer because I found a quality set at a decent price point. I will adjust the tyre dimensions to fit the car.

My mechanic put Mobil 10W40 Wtf?

The above post should've been two posts but it merged them. I made a mistake.

Probably due to higher rpm, but shouldn't the vacuum per stroke be greater in diesel engine? My mistake. I was going by the high compression logic.

Probably due to higher rpm, but shouldn't the vacuum per stroke be greater in diesel engine?

Unfortunately I won't be able to test this properly without additional modification. I've scanned the codes and it turns out that EZQ engine determines whether there is EGR flow by measuring the temperature of returning exhaust gas. This means that the engine is aware that the EGR is closed. I am not sure what the ECU will be doing now. Maybe it compensates for it, maybe not. In some cars ECU can even reduce the power if EGR is disconnected without a remap. I could trick the temperature sensor, but I don't want to do it now. I talked to my friend mechanic, who is also tuning cars and he personally doesn't see the purpose of EGR in petrol engines. It's a different story for diesel engines because they emit a ton of NOx gases. I also don't see the point of NOx reduction in gasoline cars as NOx is already very low. Combating vacuum losses for efficiency makes sense, but those losses are not as significant in petrol engines as in diesel engines. I will still proceed with the test to see what will happen with the fuel consumption, but the test will not be relevant for every car. Only this particular setup. So far I haven't noticed any change in power, but removing EGR should give an increase in power in older engines. Especially if you have an old school vacuum operated EGR, because the gas pedal can't shut it off electronically. You can only shut it off with completely opened throttle.

Yes, that's true. EGR delete greatly depends on the type and age of the vehicle you operate. For some vehicles, delete can bring more power and better fuel economy, for newer vehicles it doesn't make a significant difference. I would just like to add on the topic of power of EGR that I personally don't believe that Fabia MK1 injects different amount of fuel into the engine depending on the existence of EGR valve because it doesn't have EGR valve flow sensor. I also don't believe that they would risk leaning out the mixture if the EGR breaks down. So my logic is that fuel consumption could be better for old AZQ engine, because the injected fuel will probably be the same, however it could be combusted better without the EGR valve. Newer engines with EGR flow sensor would correct for this and there wouldn't be any reason for a delete. But we'll see after the test. It's a very controversial topic and I think it's controversial because there is truth to the both sides. That's why I don't want to be rigid about it.

If you've read my reasons, and If you've read my conclusions you wouldn't say that. I found no positive effect after disconnecting EGR valve from my car. Also, Wino had a contribution to this. My reasoning didn't apply to the properly working EGR valve. I didn't trust my EGR system. I know that there is a lot of controversial thought on EGR valve, and everywhere I look I see someone arguing about it. Not everything is black and white. EGR main purpose (besides emission control) is almost like adjusting the cylinder size depending on the load, and it is a pretty neat invention. However, you can't really just say it's more efficient without describing why and where. Higher efficiency does not mean less burnt fuel. You can have higher efficiency and burn more fuel (well made race cars are very efficient but they burn fuel like mad). Given that the engine is optimized for these parameters, it will reach highest efficiency when the engine is as hot as possible and the intake is as cold as possible, because it will get extra compression from the expansion of gasses. Of course, knock should be avoided at all cost. I think that the main relevant discussion about EGR has more to do with carbon buildup on the valves, and in my opinion the car manufacturers should've used another route to reduce emissions and increase efficiency just for this reason. It is a fact that higher temperatures prevent carbon buildup.

Please read the whole thread.