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Anemicnl

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  1. Alternator has been replaced and car is running properly again. Maybe i should not have replaced the battery because this was the main issue. But it couldn't hurt to replace it after all those years. Thanks for the advice and input RicardoM and Wino!
  2. Yes this is exactly what I meant to say. I'm sorry the autocorrection changed me to be somehow. Makes sense when the brushes are part of the regulator. I'm currently looking for a replacement alternator. I'll update this topic once it's been replaced.
  3. I have checked the voltages and while running the voltage drops to 11.8. Battery voltage before was 12.4V. While checking this i also noticed that the alternator is making quite some noise. As to the fault finding steps: 1 page has be wondering: When carbon brushes are not OK, then switch the voltage regulator? I would expect this to be the other way around.
  4. My car was originally made for the Dutch/european region. Still in Holland now, I will put my battery on a charger firstly. And will then start following the steps. Thanks for the quick replies. Out of curiosity, is the Dutch Garage youtube channel yours? I saw you reference one of the videos somewhere and they were of great help on my previous maintenance.
  5. I think it are. It's a button on the center panel. I just tap it twice quickly. Exactly! Don't own one (yet). But i could borrow one somewhere. Using it should be doable too Checking the alternator is probably step 1 then?
  6. A few weeks ago my Felicia wouldn't start. The battery was close to 10 years old at this point, so I replaced it. All was well for 1 week after. At some point, when driving on the highway, i noticed that the battery light came on (bright, not dim). This happened after i flashed my foglights to signal someone. I didn't have time to inspect it yet and i needed the car again. Since nothing seemed to be wrong, other than the light being on, i decided to just drive. Even though the car started just fine, about 2 kilometers after it started stalling while i was driving. I had loss of torque at around 3000rpm and then the engine stalled. Lights, radio and such were still working at that point. The car started again and i drove home. I am wondering if the stalling and the battery light are connected, or that it are 2 seperate issues. My first thoughts are: - Bad alternator -> but last time this happened the battery light came on very slightly and it got worse. No fully bright like this time. - Belt tension or worn belt? - Dirty MAF or Throttle body -> this would mean the battery light is another issue, i can't see these being connected. - Fuse or relay blown? Im very curious what you guys think.

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