Wingreen

Check strap: Am I right in saying its the end that connects to the body (single connection), rather than the end that attaches to the door (double connection)y, that needs to be removed, as part of door removal?

Thanks. At least I dont need a new (expensive) part. Having said that, joining the wrires back together looks like a nightmare. Silly question, but, on first look, I can see at least 2 "dead ends" - I assume any "dead end" needs to be reconnected. (I have tried to find a picture/diagram of the relevant wiring - but no luck yet)

Sorted (well, I know what to do - wires broken in door). Cant delete post so....

As above. The electric window switch in driver's door doesnt operate either the driver or passenger electric window. However, the switch in the passenger door does work for the passenger electric window. I've checked the fuses and all relevant ones seem OK. The remote (which I cvan usually use to open and close both front electric windows now doesnt work either. Any ideas?

OK. Ta. Swapping keys now and again seems a good idea.

Looks like it was a red herring (or wild goose chase?). No issues when I tried, nor for nta16. (But Im not going to take any chances - in future, the keys come with me wherever I go).

UPDATE: Just tried now with 2 sets of keys (just in case). No problem. Doors didnt lock. Hurrah! Either I didnt fully recreate the sequence of events that ledt to the problem or, as an earlier person suggested, it was a "fault" that just happened with 2 cars I owned. I'd be interested if others have had some issue though.

Its not the SAFELOCK option. The issue is the doors all locking if I get out of the car, close the door(s) but leave key in the car - which means I'm stuck (unless I have spare keys with me).

Thanks again. In fact, my post was factually incorrect. It happened with my 2011 Skoda Octavia 1.6TDi (which I've now sold) and with my son's 08 Fabia Estate (not the two Fabia Estates). My reason for posting is that I now have my own Fabia Estate and I was wondering whether there was a setting that would ensure this never happened. I take your point that it could be same fault with both cars (bit spooky!), in which case nothing can be done. However, while my new(ish) Fabia is on the driveway (and I have 2 sets of keys), I will try and recreate the problem (I can still get in if it does lock with one set in ignition). If so - surely cant be a coincidence.

Hmmmm. Very strange. Trouble is, it has happened with both the Fabia's I have owned. The other one was an 08 Reg. The sequence on both occasions was as follows. Drive car. Stop. Get out, but leaving keys in ignition (engine switched off). Close all doors. Leave car for 10 minutes. Go back. All doors locked!

A couple of times I've left key in car, closed door and gone to get something. When I get back, all the doors have locked! I understand this is a safety issue (to stop someone jumoing in and driving the car away) but it has caused me huge problems on several occasions. Is there a "setting" I can choose that stops this automatic locking from happening?

I had the EGR "deleted" on my Octavia about 4 weeks ago. Just recently the orange warning light for the DPF came on. I understand that, with EGR "deleted", I cant regenerate the DPF by the option of driving at a minimum speed for a minimum time so the only option would be to pay for a garage to regenerate. Thats going to be about £250 with VAT. Anyone any idea how long a garage regeneration would last, given that my EGR has been "deleted"?

Well, my "friendly neighbourhood" garage guy did - and stuck a few fingers up there but he didnt make any encouraging noises. I might have a look myself when I get a chance - its my sons (old) car and he doesnt live with me and I'm just trying to help him out)

Thanks. Currently, I think its my only choice. Will explore other options before giving it a go. Thanks for your help

The Rivnut suggestion sounds interesting. Never heard of them but I will look into it. The thread on the piece I have (pictured) is fine, plenty of (potential) bite.

The advice re the risks in relation to the dangers with welding and cutting a hole in the metal?

Thanks - if only! I did try that but no luck. No bite. Its possible there might have been a captive nut at one time but it must have escaped!

One of the struts on my Fabia Estate 1200 has broken. Well, the strut is OK but the connector (to the side panel) has come out. See picture. Initially looked like a fairly simple job (just get it back in the hole and get to the other side and screw on the nut. However, I took it to my local garage but he tells me that its "double skineed" - so he cant get to the "other side" to get the nut in place. He suggested only option might be to cut a hole in the (metal) bodywork to get to where the nut needs to be! Only other option might be to weld it back. I did talk to my local "welder" and he wasnt very sure about taking it on as he thought there might be insulation inside (which might catch fire!) and/or that electrical wiring might be behind the metal which would get damaged. Anyone had any experience of replacing one of these? Or any ideas?

Thank you so much. After your initial reply I did google the issue and, as you say, the first port of call should be to check the battery voltage (prime suspect given your reply and my recent issue with low battery voltage). Apparently second port of call could be to check alternator. Last port of call is anything that these warning lights might suggest - real risk of spending repair work money unnecessarily, especially if it only becomes a temporary fix, based on a reset.

Thanks. Really? They dont seem to be related issues. Funnily enough I had a problem with my battery recently. Had some help on here when I posted a query in relation to it. Briefly - battery had run down due to not being used for weeks and weeks (Covid restrictions). I thought I had charged it up fully but it wouldnt hold the charge. Anyway, I was advised to REALLY charge it up - ensure on for hours to get maximum voltage. Since then it has been fine. Are you saying these warning lights might just be a battery related issue?

ANOTHER UPDATE: (Though not sure anyone is reading this....but who knows). Took it to my local garage. They couldnt determine the potential issue using their limited computer aided diagnostics. They took it to a garage they use which has more sophisticated sodtware/analysis. Initial thoughts (although by no means conclusive) was that it might be something to do with one (or more) of four(?) sensors in the exhaust system. Got my car back but it has been booked in for more work (to check out that theory?) next Wednesday. Well, wwhen I used the car yesterday - the orange "Control system for exhaust" light (after displaying, as it should, when ignition on) then went out and stayed out. Fault cleared I thought. Hmmmm. Then, after about a mile, the "Glow Plug System" warning light started flashing orange. Car was still working fine though. Anyway, I stopped to do some shopping. When I started up again, all warning light now gone when car running - and havent been seen since. Very strange? Or does this point to what the problem is?

UPDATE: Took the car for a 40 mile return trip down the local expressway. Kept it at a good 70 mph. Light still stayed on. No limp mode though. Doesnt look as if it is anything to do with fact that it hasnt had a long run over the Covid era. Still a puzzle - and a bit worrying

The Control system for exhaust warning light on my Skoda Octavia 1,6 TDi Elegance 2011 hatchback came on in August 2018 and it went into limp mode. I had the catalytic converter replaced (Invoice relates to EGR Valve etc) replaced in September 2018. Nearly £600 including labour. I havent been using my car recently (due to Covid restrictions) so only using it on short runs. Today, on a short run, the warning light came on again. Didnt go into limp mode but light stayed on, even after restarting. I can only hope that its not another problem with the catalytic converter - but its worrying. I was hoping someone on here could put my mind at rest on this. Could it be that it hasnt been used very much? Maybe a short run isnt heating up the engine/exhaust/etc enough to ensure the cataltytic converter is working? Is there a simple soultion/resason? Or am I going to have to pay out another £600 or so to get it fixed?! Aaaaargh. Any comments would be useful. Thanks

Wino - can't thank you enough for all your help. I would have struggled alone, so your knowledge and expertise has been a real godsend. I'm sure I'm not alone in having been helped on here by you. Over and.......hopefully....out!

Looking good? 6 Feb: 9.30 (6.7 deg), 12.53v 6 Feb: 13.30 (7 deg C), 12.50v 7 Feb: 9.00 (4.9 deg C), 12.47v 7 Feb: 11.30 (5.5 deg C), 12.47v 7 Feb: 15.30 (4.8 deg C), 12.47v 8 Feb: 9.00 (3.3 deg C), 12.44v 8 Feb: 11.00 (3.9 deg C), 12.44v 9 Feb: 9.00 (1.8 deg C), 12.42v 9 Feb: 11.30 (2.9 deg C), 12.41v 10 Feb: 9.00 (1.8 deg C), 12.39v 10 Feb: 11.30 (3.6 deg C), 12.39v 11 Feb: 10.00 (1.8 deg C), 12.37v In total, the battery has lost 0.25v over 9 days. That looks quite acceptable to me (but i know nothing about these things). If so, I'm beginning to think that the whole thing was a false alarm. No battery problem, no parasitic battery drain (just the normal from running basic required functions) and that the issue was entirely due to the fact that a run down battery (because of sitting around doing nothing because of covid) was never properly charged up by me?