pants1984

I've just done the above. The recode box actually already had the same code (258 - 4 door, 4 elec windows). So that part was OK. What I did next was go into the adaptations function, and reset the remote control for the key following this guide: http://wiki.ross-tec..._(Generation_3) After that I kept going up the numbers in the adaptations function as just tweaked any setting I wanted (like turning off the indicator flashing on locking / unlocking the car, etc). So that's it, electrical problem saga over! Hopefully someone else finds this all useful at some point, and thanks for everyone's help. (Now begins the defective Weitec damper saga... I'll save that for another thread if Weitec keep messing me around!)

Is there a guide anywhere to show how you copy the settings from one CCU to another with VCDS? I've done a search but can't find anything.

The new CCU did the trick I think. Battery should last ages now, Just Like A Golf. One slightly fail thing I've done is not got an exact replacement, because my key fob no longer works. I think there might be some other curious behaviour too like the indicators flashing for a good 10 seconds after I've unlocked the car. I need to try and find out if/how I can recode this CCU and copy over my Skoda settings...

Just bought a used CCU from the ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170816451299. So I'll see how that goes in a few days. Just ran a fault diagnostic on the unit in VCDS Lite and I'm getting this: Not very helpful because I don't know if there are really no faults or if it's a DTC / comm error. Sigh. On an unrelated note my car failed it's MOT due to a leaky Weitec rear damper that was fitted under a year ago. I think this one had a manufacturing defect: Bad times. :(

After more interior removal I've got to the Central Convenience Unit (I think). When I take the centre-most plug out of this the draw from the battery drops right down to 10mA. Sweet. The next thing is, how do I work out if this control unit is faulty, or if it's something connected to it?

Just checked the plug in the drivers door. All looks OK: (followed the first part of this great guide http://www.briskoda....ch-microswitch/ ) Also pulling this plug out takes the total consumption from 180mA to 140mA: Damn, I was hoping it would be this plug so I could just WD40 it! More searching.

Hi, I've checked all of the lights, and the fans are all off. The door led flashes when I lock the car with a single click (a double click stops the flashing), and all other electrics work properly too. The only thing that came to mind is that my rear wiper motor seized up ages ago. I thought that could have caused the drain, so I removed the plug. It didn't change anything. But I wonder if the Central Convenience Unit would not shut down if it could somehow detect the rear wiper motor is disconnected or not in the parked position? I have no idea. I think the next step if for me to check the drivers door plugs and keep trying to find the drain. Could anyone tell me where any other fuse boxes are as the drain isn't in main one by the drivers door. Cheers Anthony.

Hi, I'm hoping somebody could help with an electrical drain i've got on my MK1 Octavia VRS. When my car is locked there's a draw of 210mA which is killing the battery in two or three days. I've left it locked for at least 20 mins and the same draw is still there even after all of the systems should have shut down: I've isolated it to this wire. When it's pulled there is no current being drawn: That's not too helpful because I have no idea how much stuff this wire powers. So to try and narrow it down some more i've tested the individual fuses in the fuse box at the drivers door: In that picture i've taken Fuse 14 out (3rd in, 3rd down, from the top left) as this is the only one that seems to change the current draw. When that fuse is pulled I am getting a much more respectable 50mA total draw from the battery - although even that seems a little high: I know this fuse is interior lights (of which none are switched on), but i'm not clear on what else it's doing. To dig a little deeper I tested the current for just this fuse. This is where i'm getting really confused. This fuse only draws a small 20mA. Although the total effect on the draw from the battery is 160mA: So i'm a bit lost on what to do next, and this is annoying the hell out of me. If this fuse box isn't using the power then what the chuff is? Am I being daft and missing another fuse box or something? Appreciate any help! Cheers. Anthony.

Awesome tip, thanks. Just used bicarb of soda on my seats and carpets and they have come up well.

IS it the done thing to put 225/45/17 on the vRS 17" rims. I'm sure I read this it gives better grip somewhere...?

Mine has been mapped. And I put a green filter in for good measure. The sound has improved and the is a nice whistle and dump sound on and off the throttle. I was not too impressed for the first few miles. But then it seemed to get better and better as the drive went on. I think the ecu is fine tuning the new map to my engine. It's a marked improvement from 2K onwards and the power is held for longer. The car feels less asmatic. Off boost performance below 2K seems less torquey but I think I need to give it a few days to fine tune itself... In conclusion i'm happy and it was a fun drive back. Cheers Jabba. :p And ofcourse thanks to SkodiRS.

1) 04 reg Fabia vRS Custom Tonto_kowalski 2) 04 reg Octi PD130 Custom matt@theforce 3) 02 reg Octi vRS Custom Chissey 4) 01 reg Octi vRS Generic Pants1984

Economy and smoothness are my main concerns with getting a re-map. I'm going for a generic jabbasport one in the upcoming group buy. I hope that their maps cut the mustard! As said, with a good map you MPG should not decrease at all (unless your booting it) and the power delivery should remain smooth and consistent with no flatspots. The AFR should not jump around and the engine should be advanced as possible without detonation. A good custom map with a good mapper is a wonderful thing! :p

Wardy perhaps you could list all of the comfirmed people in the opening post so we can see how far we have to go? Unless people are bothered about being anonymous for some reason?

Done. How many do we have onboard now?