DutchVRS

Hi, I didnt replace the speaker cabling through the door, its already 1,5mm2 OFC, so no use to do this.

Thanks for the insight! I monitored the cycles of the CTEK and mine used actually goes first upto 14.8V, than slowly goes down, and end cycles remains at 13.6V. Now booked a service for 10th of May, earlier not possible. lets see what they say. I still strongly have the idea that my battery was damaged from that 1 night draining to 3Volt. If I now read out battery voltage (car parked for 10 hours) 12.2V and its not even cold. As the dealer says with their tool the dont see if settings are on ''wet'' or ''fleece''. Would you do the change to fleece yourself with OBD?

Well the Skoda/vw dealer here is not using any other diagnostic tool😬 He doesnt want to add my read out stating 'wet' in obdeleven. As skoda factory doesnt care about that. But still..in these new cars when all systems are shut down, an AGM should read 12.5 or higher when fully charged right? When taking off a ctek charger after completely full this battery drops in 2-3 hours to 12.2volt. I have also a wireless measurement device on my battery mounted.gives same values as my fluke meter.

But thats the strange thing..when measuring voltage while driving its always between 14.2 and 14.6V. An AGM should not be charged much higher either right..? Wondering if the 'fleece' option also changes the current of alternator..

Just an update here as I still have loww voltage. After all systems are shut down battery voltage is 12.2V at nights at 10 degrees. It went down to 11 at freezing a bit. Anyone with a VRS who wants to measure his voltage? Attached 2 pics. 1st the factory battery. Clearly states AGM. And 2nd is screenshot obdeleven. Parameter on Wet. While it should be on fleece right? Dealer states he does not see these settings with their tools. They do it with official battery program tool and only sees some digits during the learning process of a battery. Also they state they can not use obdeleven or vagcom or vcds info to send to skoda factory for claiming.

Herewith an update now also with the new STEG mss1 tweeters setup and the cover panel in the booth 😎 Have also different bigger tweeter mounting caps (a pillars made for those) but now actually liking this look more.

There is already a hole to use, exactly, under door sill panel running to back.

87mm should easily fit, you can cut off the standing edge. But the grill pattern will block a lot...

Its behind the breaking peddle, but its best to remove battery, to have easy access from engine comparment.

Quick update. Need to do some minor adjustments and allignment but almost ready with the top panel for carbon 👌🏻

Luckily you can catch the tweeter cabling at the amplifier location. So that can be used👌🏻 For the center, i will try a 22ohm 10W resistor. Lets see if it works😄 Ps. I will place my new tweeters still off axis. I dont want to put them too much in my field on the road.

I want to add that in the standard sound system there is 1 dashspeaker. I took it out yesterday as it messes up the sound imaging. However, it immidiately gives SOS errror as this speaker is linked to that functionalilty. I have now sound deadened the panel, so you can not year that speaker so much anymore, but will try to replace the speaker with a resistor and lets see if it tricks the system.

Quick update: Started with the front door midbass replacement. I guess when having Canton, the middriver is just hooked up in same wiring as the midbass driver (but with a high pass /low pass filter on it). 1. remove handle gentile starting at bottom with a wig, work upwards, dont be too afraid using force 2. turn at the bottom of the panel the hexagon head 3. remove screw behind small plastic clip at side of panel 4. remove the 2 bolts behind door handle 5. work with a wig unclipping the white clips (some will stay on the door, you have to remove the later and put back on panel before mounting again). 6. when all clips are loose, use gentile force to move panel upwards 7. undo all cable connectors, can be some work 8. dismantle the doorhandle cable Finish before applying sound deadening, degrease the panel work VERY well, at bottom they use Vaseline against corrosion protection, avoid rubbing it out Apply sound deadening (for now I did not take out the complete plastic panel with the window mechanism, the doors already are having great structure). Apply foam deadening behind speaker mounted the speaker adapters for 16.5cm midbass drivers mounted the speakers and added foam arround the speaker Apply sound deadening at the panel (all kinds can be used, but I prefer to first listen to rattles and hear what I should add and where. I blocked off the original midrange places with sound deadener to avoid it having it work as a leakage Put back the panel Rear panels: 1. remove handle gentile starting at bottom with a wig, work upwards, dont be too afraid using force 2. turn at the bottom of the panel the hexagon head 3. remove the 2 bolts behind door handle 4. If possible (can be done later), remove the electrical window panel, remove the switch from it 5. work with a wig unclipping the white clips (some will stay on the door, you have to remove the later and put back on panel before mounting again). 6. when all clips are loose, use gentile force to move panel upwards 7. undo all cable connectors, can be some work 8. dismantle the door handle cable 9. take of panel before applying sound deadening, degrease the panel work VERY well, at bottom they use Vaseline against corrosion protection, avoid rubbing it out Apply sound deadening (for now I did not take out the complete plastic panel with the window mechanism, the doors already are having great structure). Apply foam deadening behind speaker mounted the speaker adapters for 16.5cm midbass drivers mounted the speakers and added foam arround the speaker Apply sound deadening at the panel (all kinds can be used, but I prefer to first listen to rattles and hear what I should add and where. Remove the original tweeters by drilling the 3 glued joints Glue in the new tweeter Place and wire the passive filter Put back the panel

Again a few steps further, ****load of work. Now amplifier allignement and graphics work. Lots of sanding of plexi edges and mount programmable leds. Than time for the cover panel.

Thanks for sharing your experiences. Do you have an mk4?

Hi guys, Last week I had an over the air system update which resulted in the battery being at 5Volt in the morning after. Had to jumpstart it, recharge, went to dealer, did battery check and they said it was still good and couldnt find a leak, so they think it was the system running when engine was off for the update. However, now still seeing +/- 12.0V after 1hour parking the car. Can I ask some of you to also measure the voltage on the battery after it being parked for lets say 1 hour? I am doing some tests, but if more cars are seing just 12.0V, batteries wont last long as normally it should sit arround 12.4-12.7 charged. Guessing there are systems (maybe due to update) drawing current, which shouldnt be so much. Hoping not to end up being parked somewhere with a flat battery. I am also making another note about this to Skoda dealer so they can open a discussion with distributor/factory.

Sounds good, however I would go for 1 line higher when looking at ESX. No full door insulation needed; only use foam damping, more is not needed for such speakers. Only my recommendation is not to use an underseat subwoofer but please go than for a small 8inch in the boot that you can take out if you need the space sometimes. Underseats will not sound at all in the range of freq response compared to boot subwoofers.

Hi guys, Unfortunately I have issues with my suspension. Having a rubbing sound when turning steering wheel, also when parked. Now after a few investigation it looks like my development springs of Cobra are too short..as with the absorber loose next to the car mounted with the spring, the spring can be turned by hand. So..we now think this is creating the sound. Who has experience with H&R springs? And no noise heard while turning slowely?

Quick update. Waiting now for the subwoofer amplifier

How is the picture than made of Bolix? I see a screen mirroring right?

Hi! which modules or codes you used for this screen mirroring or youtube possibility?

Thanks! I can not confirm yet about rear door speaker size. I will take off doorpanels next week👌🏻

Quick update👌🏻 1 amplifier to go. Than starting all plexiglass work. And speakers replacement.