Duffman21

Stumped again.... I'm getting that weird tapping from rear C Pillar sort of area when the fan is on at around 4. Open the door, air pressure obviously decreases and noise stops. Close door and starts. All the drains checked for blockages (which they weren't). Anyone know for sure what causes this noise? I've shot a video but not sure where to upload to share. Cheers, DM

I know the point you're trying to make, but a climate control system doesn't include a bilge pump.

Not sure I do, but you're entitled to your opinion nonetheless. AC is a widely accepted form of taking warm air and cooling it. If you're suggesting that manufacturers have now disbanded this notion against something called 'climate control' and reckon we need to dry out the air that comes into cars, then that a new one on me. Bottom line is, with the techology available, cars should be sealed enough to not have moisture build up. My old Audi had double glazing for heavens sake! The big problem that this thread relates to, is the poor design and build quality that leads to leaks in Yeti's. Fix the leak and you wouldn't have to have a degree in heating engineering in order to keep your car from fogging up. Additionally, AC units should be built to work without the need to run them constantly. Sure, gases may need purged/recharged, but seals getting corroded from lack of use? I've old VHS tapes in the loft that are about 30 years old and I'm sure they'll still work fine if I dusted them off. Fix the leaks, negate the need to **** about with CC or AC.

I must admit in my going on 33 years of driving, I have never used AC in the winter. I find that when you start to use AC that when you switch it off and use regular fan, things tend to steam up even more. AC should be pretty much outlawed.... you know the amount of Co2 and heat that AC units all over the world create? Wear less clothes FFS (haha)

Well, as I live in Scotland and not Portugal, our need for aircon is limited and tbh, the dry air that air conditioning of any variant produces, isn't all that great for your health. Much better to have a bit of moisture and humidity and just open the sunroof, windows if you get too hot. I had a motorhome and when driving to France, it's use decreased MPG by about 5 MPG. It was crazy inefficient. Anyways, back on topic, has anyone else had/heard of leaks into footwell from air conditioning units? I thought I read that in some other thread.

Maybe a grippy Scotsman but I never tend to use aircon as it consumes more fuel from the higher output of energy consumption. I went for a drive last night for 45 mins with aircon on at warm temp and no sign of any leaks but then again, it might now have had time to accumulate enough condensation from the drainage point of view.

And Yet(i) more evidence that the pipe is the aircon water drain. https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/yeti/heating_ventilation_air_conditioning_system/heating_air_conditioning/air_conditioner/climatic_air_conditioning_system_with_manual_control/check_condensation_water_drain/ I think I'll check this. I did accidentally have the aircon on a few weeks back (not the sort of thing I have on in winter and only use when it's blisteringly hot). As I couldn't find any obvious panoramic sunroof issues, I reckon this may well be where it's came from as when I bought the car in Oct it had that 'wet dog' smell to it so I think it might have been damp for some time with me only realising couple of weeks ago.

Part 30 forming the air conditioning perhaps? Water drain? Looks very similar. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/yeti/yet/2012-666/8/820-820012/

Anyone know what this black tube is that sits just left of the clutch? I tore out the sodden soundproofing and insulation on the firewall.... in the airing cupboard now attempting to dry out. Still no idea where the water came from but all sunroof and drains are accounted/modified now as a pre-emptive measure. Wonder if that black tube is air con? IMG_3950.heic

Lads, I've removed the headlining. On first inspection, the rubber/plastic grommets that go on top end of drain pipes look good, certainly no obvious gaps but have applied RTV sealant as a pre-emptive measure should the perish in future. No sign of blockages on drains - blue through them with air hose and also just a good old lips around the orifice blow (gads!!). No sign of headliner having water ingress..... either outside (which I would have noticed before removing it) or from the inside after removal. Have applied Captain Tolleys as precaution although again, judging by the comments, it would seem if that is the cause of a leak, it would be running down the headliner (or I may be mistaken)? Air pollen filter is dry. No signs of scuttle drains being blocked or water on inside of engine bay. With the amount of water that was in there, I am a bit lost as to where it could be coming from therefore. What was that telltale sign when the fan is on and it makes that tapping sort of noise? And the other thing I've still to discount is the aircon. Anyone know where I need to check if that is leaking when turned on? Cheers guys.

Have they quoted you a price?

So chaps.... the drain at the rear of the sunroof... is this accessible via the tailgate or is this only via the removal of the headliner? And where does the pipe exit the car so I can ensure it's not blocked?

Ouch! My one is self-isolating in my garage right now - very much taking a breather (and trying to dry out a bit). As I said, not sure what to tackle first. I'm loathe to pay any mechanic, let alone the £113 an hour the Stealer wants just for labour!

How much were the rubber seals and do you have a part number? Presume the sun roof has to come out? How was the water getting in then if the drains weren't blocked?

Cheers Muppix. I think I'll start with the scuttle drains tomorrow. Easiest of the lot I guess. Car had been sitting with a fair bit of snow on it over last 2 weeks so assume the sun roof wasn't really the problem as the temps were so cold the snow wasn't melting. On occasion though, I had started her up and gone for a drive and there would been thaw from the front windscreen into engine bay, so it does seem slightly plausible. Be interested if anyone has photos of how to quickly assess if drains are blocked before I tackle them from inside (ie the rubber grommets). Cheers