LCYCowboy

It turns out that the plunger on the old switch was stuck in. So the length doesn’t seem to be an issue. However, the new switch doesn’t seem to switch (resistance stays the same regardless of the position of the plunger). I fitted it regardless, and it seems to have fixed the over revving between gear changes. I am pretty sure that it still keeps accelerating when you release the accelerator whilst driving though.

Just received a replacement switch from autodoc. Strangely, the plunger is twice as long as the original, and when measuring the resistance across the two terminals, there is no difference when pressing down the plunger???

Just took the old switch out to get the part number and noticed that it is open circuit. I took it apart and the wiper had snapped off. Hopefully a new switch will solve the issues. Being open circuit I suppose it is thinking that the pedal is being continuously pushed. I'm assuming that the ECU makes calculations based on clutch position and speed info to adjust revs? Can't figure out why it is random though. With the switch broken wouldn't the behaviour be the same all the time?

Thanks for all the replies. I have ordered a new clutch pedal switch. It's worth a try, although the car still does the revving while in motion with the car in neutral and the clutch pedal not being touched.

I had this problem and it took months to figure. Strangely, it turned out to be the window control unit. I initially replaced the door lock, the wiring loom, then found some interesting posts and lots of help from Pete pointing to the window control unit. For some reason it interfaces with the door lock/alarm and caused my alarm to go off randomly in the middle of the night.

I'm having the same issue with my manual 1.2. Did you get anywhere with this?

I am at my whits end with this now. I have taken the pedal apart, and cleaned it, didn't help. Then I got hold of another accelerator pedal and put that in, didn't help. I put lots and lots of carburettor cleaner down the throttle body, didn't help. I took the throttle body off and cleaned everything and checked all of the action, didn't help. The really strange thing is that it only does it while the car is moving. If I sit stationary and blip the throttle, it is all normal (engine revs up then straight away returns to 700rpm). If I drive and put the car into neutral and blip the throttle, it sometimes revs up to 5000rpm and stays there for a second, sometimes only an extra thousand revs, sometimes it is normal. Why would it only do it while the car is in motion. Is this an ECU problem? Thanks for any help

We've had this Fabia for 7 years now and it has covered 102,000m. It has just developed a problem. When changing gears, you come off the accelerator and press the clutch, but the revs blip up after the accelerator has been released and and the clutch dipped. It doesn't happen 100% of the time, but very often. At one point, I dropped the clutch at 3500rpm and the engine revved up to 5000rpm (for about 2 seconds). I could be imagining it, but I am sure that if you are driving in gear and come off the accelerator completely, it sometimes continues pulling for a couple of seconds. I have googled and found one Ibiza 1.2 owner with the same problem, but no resolution posted. Anyone clever out there that could help? I have scanned with my OBD reader, and there are no codes. Thanks Neil

Did you solve this one. Mine has done the exact same thing (2008 1.2 HTP). Ignition turned on ok, but then everything went completely dead. Went to get the volt meter, as I put it on the Positive terminal I heard a click and it all powered back up.

Hi, thanks for the reply. I replaced the air filter, but didn't clean the MAF/Throttle body. I'll give that a go next. Thanks

My little Fabia Mk2, which has the 1.2 HTP 70bhp engine has started becoming a bit jerky when coming off the throttle regardless of how smoothly you try and do it. I have done a bit of googling and found a couple of things mentioning the air flow sensor. Has anyone else experienced this? I carried out a full service including plugs to try and remedy this, but this didn't seem to help. Thanks Neil

Thanks so much for the offer. I have just got off the phone with Skoda and ordered a new unit out of desperation. That will have been £500 in total to fix a small problem. Thanks for all your help

Thanks for the info. Reading that is like deja vu. I did take the window control unit apart as in the thread, and tried to resolder the exact same pins (as they did look a little off colour), but this hasn't helped in my case. I suppose it is the £200 for the control unit (they are very hard to get non-skoda as apparently they are used in lots of VAG cars, but are individually coded to different models). Thanks for the help!

Well, I put a new wiring loom in which had no effect on the problem. I then replaced the door lock (the one in the car was a non OEM part), and plugged everything back in and locked it. Overnight it was as good as gold, no alarm went off and I dared to dream it had solved the issu. Then this morning I drove the kids to school and the door open alarm was permanently on again. VAGcom says the passenger door is open, and the minute I unplug the window control unit in the door the warning goes away. The last thing to replace now is the window control unit (which is just over £200). This is driving me insane!

Thanks for this. I'll strip it down and have a look at the weekend. I had just soldered the wires from the new switch onto the wires from the old switch (I hadn't gone into the board). What I can't work out is why the drivers door is now suddenly tripping the alarm. It all makes no sense! Thanks for your help, much appreciated.

I should also add, that the only fault code picked up by a scan is 01598 - Drive Battery Voltage. Overnight I put the battery on charge and the alarm still went off in the morning (whilst still on charge), so I don't think it is a low battery problem

My daughters Fabia (2008) has recently started behaving very strangely. Below is a quick summary. The alarm started going off randomly (usually at night, and it started during very cold weather). I replaced the Siren, thinking it was a duff battery. This didn't fix it and after a couple of weeks of locking the car by crawling in the back and pressing the interior door locking switch by the gear stick (to avoid arming the alarm) the door open warning light started coming on whilst driving. I dug out my old VCDS from my old Audi owning days, and plugged it in to find that the passenger door though it was open. Sure enough, the alarm had also been triggered by the passenger door (code 002). On stripping down the door, I found that when I unplugged the cable from the Window Control Module (is that what the window motor is called?) the door warning extinguished and VCDS said the door was closed. As I had ordered new micro switches for the door mechanism I installed one anyway, and put it all back together again. Now the strangeness begins!!!! I plugged in the window control unit and all seemed fine. I rearmed the alarm and it was fine for 12 hours overnight, but suddenly went off in the morning. At this point I plugged in VCDS and it now said that the drivers door had set it off. I stripped the drivers lock and replaced the microswitch and put it all together. Then the old problem reoccurred where unless I unplugged the passenger window unit the door would not register as closed. So now I have two new microswitches installed, the passenger window controller disconnected and all doors showing as closed. But the alarm still triggers after a few hours, randomly from the drivers door (which wasn't where the original fault occurred). I have run out of ideas. Why would the window controller effect the door opening sensor (which works fine without the window controller plugged in, without the window controller plugged in VCDS registers whether the passenger door is open or closed, so the micros switch in the door locks seems to function). Why would the drivers door suddenly trigger the alarm when the initial problem was with the passenger door? What should I try now?