BrumTom_

I have the same unit as well and the steps you have outlined are how I work mine. However, in the videos its been shown pressing CD does not cycle to the AUX setting and there is no AUX setting in the menu.

If you're confident to could you take the radio out and inspect the wires going into the rear of the radio? If the AUX option isn't showing up on the menu then the radio doesn't know it's an option so something is most likely going to be wrong in the wiring loom somewhere.

they wouldn't come up from pressing CD alone, you need to press the menu button to get the buttons to the side of the LCD to show the aux on/off option

Have you tried just pressing CD a few times? Posting a video of you demonstrating trying to get it to work and having no luck might help people diagnose if there's something more funky going on

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2014-697/6/601-601060/#6 It looks like it's numbers 6,7,8 on this page, all have basically the same part number. Not sure why the last letter differs, hoping someone more knowledge can explain that and if/what the differences would be between them.

Why would you put it length ways

The sill on these has a vertical bit of metal coming down you're right, that the jack in the boot has a slot for but the axle stand does not. If you bought the halfords ones suggested in your other post I believe there was rubber pucks you could buy on ebay that had that cut out in them, might be wirth investing in those. You could also put a piece of wood or something else solid undernteath the trolley jack before you start lifting in order to increase the height it can go to, this might give you the extra bit that you need to place in the locations suggested above, please make sure thought that this is absolutely stable both before and during the lift as well as while any weight is being supported as there is inherintly more risk of slippage with this approach if not careful as you're adding another object into the equation. I only mention that as I had a similar problem to you and that was how I overcame it. Don't try this without someone else backing me up, I could have been accidentally making rookie mistakes that were more dangerous than I realised at the time.

That's the sill, that's where the jacking points are that you'd commonly use the little jack in the boot on when changing a wheel at the road side. Perfectky fine place to put the axle stand It's designed to take the weight of the car.

Thin metal?

Thank you! Will find a similar screw in local hardware stores

Pretty sure the last few pictures posted by the OP show a massive hole in the exhaust? In between the two parts of the clamp.

This is the screw in question (not a great picture I know). Just found in service manual it says fuel filter every 60k, so it is due one.

You sure? This is a 13 year old and 63k mile fuel filter.

Hi all, I have gone to change my fuel filter and the head of the screw has fallen apart when I went to unscrew it. Seeing as I will now need to drill the screw out and buy a replacement. Does anyone happen to know the specs of the screw required? I have a 1.2 htp BZG.

I have an obd reader and it shows no codes at all

I left my battery disconnected for 10 minutes and then went for a drive, the problem was still there for me (although it did seem to be less severe). Is that long enough for the ecu to completely lose power? I'm not sure on the level of capacitance in a cars wiring, but I imagine it's not insignificant

When I do this I'll need to find and enter a radio code right? Is there anything else that I'll need to do afterwards?

Just took it for a long drive, after about 45 minutes the rough idle returned. Maybe I have another vacuum leak? Or maybe it's another issue entirely.

Mine was just push fit on both ends, so had to walk it out/off of the connectors on either end, not sure if your's is the same or not

It says next to the relevant pictures in my post. Me too! It's mainly because of your help which is greatly appreciated. I do not know who they were, but apparently they didn't mind too much about brake performance...

Have you checked your hose yet? Part number is: 6Q2 612 041 AL. I'd recomend getting it from mike at cloverdale car parts, that's where I got it from

@Wino I unfortunately think this is worse than your example. The end that goes into the inlet manifold Eitherside of the valve The end going into the brake booster was not cracked somehow. Checked the date of manufacture and it's 2007, so this has been with the car for it's whole life. New hose is installed and hopefully the car is now happier as a result. Cheers again all for your help.

Hopefully so, when it's been swapped I'll take all the tape off and see what the full extent of the splits are, will post a picture if folk are interested.

Update, that hose is absolutely split to buggery, there seems to be about 3 layers of electrical tape spanning the entire length of it. I checked both sides of the non return valve and they both had massive splits at the back, could actually feel one them through the tape now I knew what I was looking for. It has been taped back up and a replacement hose has been ordered from Mike at cloverdale. Thank you to both @Wino and @sepulchrave for your help with this. Hopefully this is the only hose of mine that is split and the vacuum leak is no more.

Right ok, so although it doesn't actually move, it fixes something? I'm lost, this far outside of my knowledge