briskodafan

And now, let me tell you about the changes after I changed the battery. I wrote my first post (in despair) the day after I changed the battery. Nothing seemed to have changed then, but in these days I have noticed a clear improvement (although both the EML an EPC lights keep turning on -and off!- from time to time). First big difference: the car has not stalled any single time in these 12 days. Not even when the EPC light turns on. This was simply imposible before I changed the battery: the car stalled seconds after the EPC light turned with a 90% probability. Now I feel no noticeable behavior when the EPC light turns on. Furthermore, the EPC light turns on less often now. It's been off for more than a week. That was unbelievable before: it usually turned on every day or every other day. Why should a new battery cause this improvement? Does that give you any clue as what could be still causing the problem? Thank you SO much again.

Your question is the most difficult to answer, @AnnoyingPentium: I see no way to check whether there is any breaks in the pipework because I have no access to a car lift. I suppose the only way to properly check for breaks is to visually inspect the pipework from underneath it, isn't it? Any other approach like kneeling and trying to spot some smoke popping out of the pipework? Thanks!

At changeover I left the battery disconnected for a minute or so. I agree with you that it costs nothing to let all the circuits discharge, so I removed the battery for about 24 hours, turned the lights on after disconnecting it, turned them back off, reconnected the battery and wiped the error codes before I started the car. The EML and EPC lights were off, but unfortunately they reappeared 4 minutes later. The airfilter was changed on April 2021. The electric cables seem OK. No fur or rust on the pins inside. Both MAP and oxygen sensor cables are secured to the car. However, I've noticed the D-connector the oxygen sensor connects to has the tab broken. I mean, the tab you put your finger on to press and release the connector. However, the connector seems to be firmly locked to the oxygen sensor connector. Do you think the broken tab may be causing bad electrical connections anyway?

@Wino, I'm happy to know the MAP sensor is OK just clipped in: you have saved me time by discarding that hypothesis. Thanks! Regarding the spark plugs, they were changed on february 2020.

Thank you, guys! You are great! I was clueless and you have opened some new paths to an eventual solution. In the past few days I've been collecting the information you asked for and making tests trying to identify patterns, because after I changed the battery there ARE some changes in the way the car reacts that seem positive to me. Let me first answer your questions:

Dear all, I own a Skoda Fabia 1.4, Hatchback, petrol, motor BBY 1.4l 4LV 55 kW, year 2004. In 2019 the EML light turned on. The official Skoda garage said it was an sporadic problem with the oxygen sensor. No distinguishable consequences for more than a year. Afterwards, the EPC light started to turn on too, with the engine stalling (most of the times) right after the EPC light turned on. Turning off the car, waiting 10-20 seconds and starting the car again solved it for some days. I checked the fault codes and I had these: P0135 (oxygen sensor), P0106 (MAP sensor) and P1183 (???). So, I replaced the front oxygen (lambda) sensor and cleared the errors. A couple of weeks later the EML light turned on again, but this time only one error remained: P0106 (MAP sensor). I also replaced the MAP sensor and everything went OK for a month or so. Then, the EML light reappeared: P0106 MAP sensor error code again! The EPC light and engine stalls returned some weeks later (only P0106 fault code). But last week, the motor started jerking and I found I had P0106 and some new errors: P0135 (Oxygen sensor error was back!!!) and P1178 (???). P0106 fault code appeared recorded twice. Searching here on Briskoda, I saw similar problems were caused by an old battery. Mine is 3 years old and was giving 12.02 V with the engine stopped, so I decided to change it. With the new battery the problems (EML and EPC, fault codes P0106 and P0135) are also there. I would say they appear earlier now: some seconds after starting the car rather than some minutes with the old battery. I feel hopeless now, because I see no other way to solve the problem. It's getting worse and I've run out of ideas. :(( Do you have any clue what can be causing this, given I have already changed the oxygen sensor, the MAP sensor and the battery? The alternator seems to be working OK: I get between 14.2 V and 14.4 V measured on the battery with the engine started. When I replaced the MAP sensor, it was surprising to see that although the sensor was supposed to be screwed to the motor with two screws, it had none: instead, a plastic-like clamp hold the sensor in place. I supposed both methods would be equivalent and then I checked the MAP sensor from a friend of mine's Skoda, and it was also screw-less. Do you think the situation would improve by putting two screws to the MAP sensor? Many thanks in advance...

Thank you!

Same question here. Unfortunately, the image seems gone. Would it be possible for you to re-post it? Thank you so much!