Rubinetti

No evidence of significant leak, no pools or even oil drops below the car when it is parked As it seems it could be associated with motorway driving, may be it is being burnt at higher revs but oil fumes are less visible from the exhaust when traveling at speed ?? Bithanks to both of you for contributing….

It’s 08 with 90k miles, more than I thought. On a recent (largely motorway) run of around 400miles it went through close to a litre of 5w30…

Is there a known issue of “higher than normal” oil consumption on these engines? I put higher than normal in quotes as I am basing this on all other cars I have owned in the last 30 years that use very little oil, compared to my son’s Fabia 2 needs the oil topping up frequently, seemingly particularly long runs on the motorway. It’s not excessively high mileage, and the exhaust doesn’t seem to show any sign of oil smoke as one might expect if say the rings were tired. I have searched the forums for high oil consumption for this engine and couldn’t find anything but that could be my poor search skills. when looking on the wider net I found a report of someone with an 07 Audi with presumably the same engine with a problem with the oil breather pipe, but this may be a red herring as it said that the problem was fixed by an upgrade from 08 onwards… any thoughts or suggestions of things to look at for a possible easy fix? Its a problem they will live with sooner than parting with a load of cash…

I have the glass from the old door (rear drivers side) - both the wind up window and small fixed quarterlight, available (free) for collection in NW Leeds if they are of use to anyone…seemed a shame to junk them with the damaged door….

Job done. For future reference the bolt securing the check strap to the car is an M8 spline. The “hinge” swap was straightforward following the advice given earlier in this thread - a 13mm spanner/socket to undo both bolts and the door lifts up and off …anyone familiar with the pintles o.n the rudder of a sailing dingy should recognize the concept. I got a complete door, so did not have to swap the glass across, but with the harness cut at the hinge so I elected to unthread the harness out of the old door, which was not too difficult with the door card removed. Overall the biggest challenge was finding a door that vaguely matched…. thanks again to all who took the time to post

You are very kind to take the time to share this information. I won’t have ready access to the car until I am ready to start the swap, so you wouldn’t happen to know of the top of your head what bits are needed to removed the pivot bolts? Am seem to recall they are TORX on the top but don’t know the size….are they captive underneath? As an aside, I am finding it a real challenge to find a door in the 9102 shade “Diamond Silver” Lots in Brilliant Silver A7W /9156, which I believe is a lighter shade……how much lighter I will be finding out unless I hit lucky… thanks again

Thanks again for the helpful feedback. I have found a nearly complete door, seemingly in good nick except that it’s not clear if the big window glass is present. Is it a big job to swap the glass from my old door - I am referring to the main opening window, not the fixed quarterlight which is there in the “new” door. Does anyone have instructions on how to do it ?

Thank you both for the useful feedback. Mrgf - I was aware of the potential in buying a stripped door, which although I could strip everything from the old door, it sounds like a lot more work, so a useful warning. The car (my sons) has manual windows, which I had thought about, but was not aware that some had speakers and some not so hadn’t looked too closely. I will be wary on both counts. Urban Panzer - thanks for the advice. Do you happen to also know what size torx the screws are that hold the hinge to the door? (I don’t have ready access to the car prior to starting the job).

Thanks for the information. Can I imply that it is a reasonably straightforward job without any hidden pitfalls? Is it better that I leave the hinges on the car and unbolt them from the door, or will I need to get access to the head of the bolt securing it to the car from the inside? Maybe for adjustment ?

New joiner so apologies if there is already a post on the this forum which I failed to find. I need to replace the rear passenger door following “hit and run” damage which twisted the frame. It looks like there are a number suitable on eBay, so am wondering if it is a straight forward DIY job. Looking at the photos on eBay it looks like they simply cut the wiring harness ..... I presume I can use the wiring on the current door. Is the screw that holds the door strap to the body XZN m8 ? Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated.....