Everything posted by Mh96
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Haldex Pump
Being the tight fisted Yorkshire lad I am I tried just replacing the pump at first. Issue remained mate. Had to send the controller off for repair. Spoke with the bloke at HaldexRepair (AutoFaultFinder) and he said it’s a bug in the software on the controller. I’ll probably butcher this summary, but once it’s detected out of normal bounds response from the pump it needs to be ‘reset’ basically. He opens it, flashes it and then reseals it better than it was from factory to avoid water ingress (another common fault with the controller being under the car). Can’t fault the bloke. Cost me £324 all in for new pump, controller repair and return postage. If you’re getting under the car to fit a new pump the controller is an extra couple bolts from memory, 30 second jobby. I removed the controller, taped up the plugs with electrical tape, and drove the car while waiting for him to fix it. ESC light flashed on first start-up after removing it but went away after driving it 100m down the road. Any other questions give us a shout and I’ll try help fella - know it’s frustrating when you’ve only just bought the car, I had the exact same experience
- Haldex Pump
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Haldex Pump
Alright, here we go… 2.0 TDI 170 4x4, 64 plate Yeti is throwing an intermittent C111204 code (Haldex clutch pump) - was tipped off by spinning front wheels a bit if I stomp it and the roads anything other than bone dry. Had another 4x4 Yeti before this (written off in a police RTC) and a 4x4 octy vRS (sold) before that and both had the rear wheels kick in before my fronts started spinning. Tried to run a pump relearn, it refused to even start so I drained it, removed the pump and cleaned it up. Was only serviced back in Feb of this year so really wasn’t much at all on it. Plugged it up to 12v on the bench and it came to life? Refilled with new fluid, new O-rings and plugged it all back in. Successfully ran a relearn and then gave it some acceleration with the handbrake slightly engaged (while it was still in the air) and the back wheels fought the handbrake and span. Had 36h of lovely AWD goodness, felt like a different car, and then pulling out of a junction Sunday morning the front wheels went, traction control kicked in and I’ve checked and the code is back. Working theory in my head is that I resuscitated a dying pump by plugging it directly into power, squeezed what life it had left and then it’s died. Then again, could also just be chatting out my arse! Any ideas folks? Bit thrown off by the pump springing back to life after servicing it as I was expecting it to be dead. Thinking replace the pump and see where we end up, but figured it was worth asking thoughts before I fork out
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Front Grill VRS emblem
Now I reread what you said, if you mean the black back panel - I didn’t bother taking that off. I removed the badge from the back panel on the car, did the same with the new part and stuck the new badge to the old back panel, if that makes sense?? Basically, didn’t wanna risk snapping owt off the grill
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Front Grill VRS emblem
Haha feel that, think I ended up wrapping it around a couple biro pens by the end. Just used 3m double sided like I did with the bonnet/boot. A little fiddly cutting pieces to size but never came off again to be fair to it
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Front Grill VRS emblem
Hair dryer did the trick, then just worked along the back of it with dental floss
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Kopacek / SuperSkoda
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Kopacek / SuperSkoda
Dangerous game isn’t it. Cars in for service today so has already done enough damage to the wallet, was easy to limit myself to the one buy haha
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Kopacek / SuperSkoda
You beauty, had found their .com site but didn’t realise they’d have .ie and .co.uk sites. For anyone in the market in the future: https://www.maxtondesign.co.uk/body-kits/skoda/skoda-octavia/skoda-octavia-mk3.5-vrs/GRILL-SKODA-OCTAVIA-MK3-FL-MAXTON-DESIGN Ended up ordering boot lights from Kopacek and getting stung with a delivery fee, but enough people raved about em on here I felt like I had to haha
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Kopacek / SuperSkoda
Since the change in their shipping policy, post-brexit back in April of last year, has anyone used like a postal proxy service based in Northern Ireland to get around their larger weight/size order limit? They said it’d be ballpark €80 for shipping to the UK. Some muppets reversed into my parked car and want to replace the cracked grill with a honeycomb style one listed on Kopacek, but because it’s 3.5kg in its packaging they won’t ship it to the UK.
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Front Grill VRS emblem
Part number for the front vRS badge I ordered for my facelift is 5E0 853 736 C 9B9, hope that helps. Regarding folks questions on splitting it from back plate, see pictures. 4 ‘pins’ that align it on the plate, then Skoda’s crazy adhesive.
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Badge and Emblem replacement (Guide)
Yeah I think I might have to apply that logic and bite the bullet haha. The photo looks sweet. Have to get heat-resistant spray for the tips or just normal?
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Badge and Emblem replacement (Guide)
Aye it’s mega isn’t it. Priced up two colour matched emblems, rear vRS and rear 4x4 lettering and it comes to like £120. The Yorkshireman in me says no chance, but I keep staring at the bloody chrome haha You chuffed with em? They aged well?
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Badge and Emblem replacement (Guide)
Did wonder what they’d be like. Managed to color match the blue reasonably well myself respraying OEM but can’t get the black right. Might give it another go some time but think I’ll probably just bite the bullet and pay through the nose at Kopacek eventually.
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Badge and Emblem replacement (Guide)
Am still so blagged they’ve prised it off, absolute madness. It’s worth a gamble for how cheap they are on eBay, but my fear is that the non-OEM could well just be one single moulded piece of plastic - bit of a lottery really unless someone on here has bought one
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Badge and Emblem replacement (Guide)
Wait I’m being thick - your back piece and ring are still attached you can see by the square holes. Long day haha
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Badge and Emblem replacement (Guide)
How weird - so there was no backing-piece?? Suppose that removes the need to paint match it haha. I reckon you get rid of the ring and replace it with a full badge aye. If my little experiment goes well I’ll shout you like Halfway down the first page of this thread you can see the three individual pieces I was on about:
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Badge and Emblem replacement (Guide)
I’ve got two OEM badges on order from local dealership and race blue/black magic paint, primer and lacquer to pick up Friday. Gonna make my own that will hopefully look exactly like yours. So from my research it seems you can split them into three (backplate, centre and ring), do what you’re doing and then and glue them back together. This is apparently what the sellers on SuperSkoda do. Gonna be soaking all the badges/lettering for a week in bleach to strip the chrome before I start, but I’ll post pics once I make progress.
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Badge and Emblem replacement (Guide)
Some sad ******s out there, didn’t even realise people were out to nick Skoda badges. The only 3-pinned black badges I found outside of SuperSkoda are here fella. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-FIT-FOR-Skoda-Set-90-90mm-Front-Rear-Hood-Trunk-Emblem-Badge-Gloss-Black-/313108443964?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Shipped from China and can’t testify to their quality like, but significantly cheaper than €45 a pop
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Badge and Emblem replacement (Guide)
I’m picking up chrome badging from my local dealer this week, bleaching off the chrome and spraying my own. Will drop a line once done. Also yeah, front and back badges both three pin (which is why I won’t buy those cheaper eBay color-matched badges).
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Badge and Emblem replacement (Guide)
Also looking to pull this off, but can only find body color-matched emblems for the front (2-pin) and not rear. Any ideas? Anyone bought from Kopacek (SuperSkoda) since Brexit? Read some grim reviews online so hesitant to buy all the badging I’ll need