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Balaji2701

Finding my way
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  1. The fault code P1248 got fixed after setting the Injection Pump Timing with the help of VCDS. I bought a 50 ml syringe at the pharmacy and checked the solenoids N75, N18, EGR valve and Wastewater/Turbo Actuator. N18 was stuck. I opened it and cleaned with carb cleaner. It works fine now. EGR valve open on applying vacuum using the syringe. N75 is also good. Turbo Actuator doesn't hold vacuum. Turbo is recently serviced. Replaced the actuator and it solved the low boost and Engine Stalling
  2. My sincere thanks to all who have shared your valuable inputs. The issue got fixed today. The connector which is on the 3 blade fuse box, on top battery, had melted. So there is no power supply to the fans. I have by passed the connector and added a fuse. Now everything is working as normal.
  3. The fans didn't work when I connected 1-2 or 2-3 of the radiator fan switch connector. There is 12 VDC at the radiator fan switch connector (thermostat switch). I checked both fans by applying voltage directly from the battery and they both work. There is no power supply at the connectors of both fans. Could it be ECM issue or wiring issues or something else?
  4. Compressor is good and there is refrigerant I.e. no leakages.
  5. The fans stopped working after a fews days. It worked earlier, after fixing the issue with wires connecting to the Ambient temperature sensor. The outside temperature is not display on the instrument cluster. It shows____°C. I checked the connector of ambient temperature sensor. It shows 4 VDC. The sensor's resistance is 786 ohms. I have a, spare Fan control unit. Swapping the FCU doesn't help. Fuses are fine. What should I check next?
  6. I took the car to an Electrician, he checked the Fan Control Module with his spare part. Fans didn't work. He changed the Ambient sensor with a spare one and it didn't solve. He checked the wiring completely and found that the ambient temperature sensor wire was cut off. He joined the wires and the fans started to work. AC refrigerant was less. He filled the refrigerant and everything works fine. There was no need to change the Fan Control Module, Fans and Thermostat switch.
  7. Hi KenONeil and Breezy_Pete. Thanks a lot for your guidance. It's my oversight. Please excuse me. I had checked the F18 connector without switching ON the ignition. Hence, I had mentioned that slow speed didn't work. Today, I started the engine and tested it and both fans are operating at low and high speed, when I connect 1-2 and 2-3 respectively in the 3 pin plug of temperature switch. Fuse 16 (10 A) for Airconditioner and water pump is fine. I noticed a weird thing that both fans run, when the fuse 16 is removed. It runs even when the key is not inserted. When fuse 16 is inserted back, the fans stop. Please post your suggestions.
  8. Yes, I have checked the fuses. I have also tried to replace with a spare one that I have. Fans are new ones. I have replaced the Fan Control Module. The contacts are unaffected by the spillage. I have also replaced the temperature switch.
  9. Thank you so much for the information. Could you please guide me in locating the resistor (s)?
  10. Hi, I have a Skoda Octavia Rider Classic 1.9 TDI 2005 model. The car was idle for a week and when I started found that the AC is not working. I had filled distilled water in excess in the battery and the acid had spilled below the battery compartment. So far, I have checked the fuses. I have replaced both fans, battery, Fan control relay and the Temperature/Thermostat switch. When I insert the fuse, both fan starts to run for a few seconds and it stops. It happens whenever I pull out the fuse and reinsert it. When the power is supplied, the fan starts and stops. I checked the F18 3 pin connector which is hooked up to the Temperature switch. 1-2 doesn't work and the 2-3 works i.e. Low speed doesn't work and the high speed alone works. I have not checked whether the radiator fan switches when the coolant temperature raises when the AC is OFF. Please post your views.
  11. EGR cleaned, Airflow sensor cleaned. I did decarbonizing using hydrogen liquid and gas recently. Nozzles were serviced. RPM is normal. It show 600 because the needle rests below zero rpm. The latest scan result shoes P1248 error. I have attached the scan result images. The fuel supply is erratic, the graph is evident. When accelerating, fuel consumption decreases (as per scan tool readings) and when deceleration, it increases. At idle injection quantity is 3.4 to 4.8 mg but suddenly shoots up to 22 mg. No air bubble in fuel line. When I advance timing, car starts in one crank but later it takes 3-4 cranks. Car jerks while releasing accelerator. Both at slow speed and high speed fuel supply is intermittent and no response to acceleration at times. Timing is inconsistent. I suspect it to the problem with ALH Pump Pressure Valve. Please advise.
  12. I have checked the injectors and the connectors. It seems to be fine. There is 0 V on positive terminal and signal of crankshaft sensor. Ground shows 12 V. Is this due to faulty sensor or ECM?
  13. Hi MicMac, Thanks for your inputs. I have already replaced the vacuum hoses. I would do the remaining checks advised by you. Regards, Balaji

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