goentillsundown

Okay, I will have a look. I'm usually an electrician, so a bit of soldering isn't an issue for me, just don't want to be going in blind. I'll look up that erWin Skoda, since it may just be the best bet to figure out exactly what I have shorted and done without a big unbuild. My car is the basic of basic and has manual windows and mirrors etc, only central locking as a comfort (well that and A/C, but that is neither here nor there). The key barrel won't engage with the armiture that turns the paddle, as it looks to have shorn off. It is not of the design that are serviceable though, so I would have to replace the whole unit and have a key that only opens the DS door, which is also a bit dumb, unless I replace the other side and ignition, which also goes in the ****-it bucket.

This is the only unit that I can see sitting under the drivers side, as said earlier, the CL relay sounds like it is sitting in up and to the right of the accelerator pedal, quite inaccessible unless I dismantel the whole dash, which I really hope I don't have to do. Even if I can just have it all back to how it originally functioned, and then when I have some spare money, buy a manual with all the drawings. To see what I have actually tapped into on a wiring schematic would show where I've gone wrong.

That was what I was also under the impression of, but this model seems to have the relays not in that position. When the CL is activated, the relay click sound is coming from behind the central portion of the dash, requiring me to remove most of the dash to access. I did disassemble above the pedals, as the information I had at the time made me look there, but it only has the main relays, and then 4-5 relays incorporated into the voltage control board (black box) that clips in above the clutch (LH driver side). I can post a picture of it disassembled if necessary

That is the link, I figured it was the best information I could find, although I think my main issue is I might have confused the computer or broken something. The picture is of the wiring. If anyone knows that it is wrong, or has a wiring diagram for this models locking system that would put me in a better direction, that would be great. I thought about attaching the remote locking directly to the relay outputs in the dash, but after taking the drivers side apart, I realised the central locking relay is not actually with the rest of them. I'm new to European cars, as I've only ever owned japanese vehicles, (a nissan diesel and toyota petrol, both out of the early 90's). They tended to have very simple systems and easily accessed, so I'm sorry if I come across as a complete idiot. Bl/red to Wh Bl/red to Y Bl/purple to Y/Black Upon looking at it and trying the remote after locking it with the key, it is apparent that that is incorrect wiring anyway, as the Bl/red positive signal disappears when locked with the key. I tried disconnecting everything and seeing if it would all go back to normal (although I am aware that the remote box is plain NO clean contacts anyway) and nothing changed. Still the passenger side will lock, then unlock from pressing the drivers door lock in, and also the passenger door won't central lock the car from the inside anymore either. In case anyone wants to say my splice joins look ****, I am aware of that too - corona makes it hard to pop to the shop to get things these days.

I would have also thought that, but the lock still works perfectly from the key from outside. Really odd and no information to be found on google about only one lock doing it only from internal. On another note, the little red LED on the drivers side started working after not functioning before I played around with it. I don't really want to take the door panel off and look at the wiring/lock in the door, as this is the cheap pop riveted door panel version.

So I recently purchased a skoda fabia mk I (2007 6Y1). The drivers door lock has a non serviceable lock and is broken (can buy a new one one day), so I figured a remote locking system would be fine, with the passengers keylock as a back up. I looked through this forum to someone that had installed one of these units before with a wiring picture of how it goes on the unit. So far so good. Figured I could access the passenger door wiring easier, so I disconnected the door in the bellow and trial and errored the four pin plug, shorting the blue/red on the blue/red- and blue/purple minus. Figured that since it cycled the locking on the car, it was all good. Plugged it all back together.... Now the passenger door won't stay locked, it locks, then immediately unlocks with the internal locking. External locking with the key still functions like it should, and the door light also goes out when the door is shut. I've got no idea. Tried disconnecting the battery for a few hours to kill everything, didn't stop it from happening. Can do some pictures if someone needs to see it to pick up what I'm putting down.