DiazFabia

What's your issue specifically? Mpg? I honestly think it's been sorted since I changed the injectors as it's stopped behaving a lot better. Asked my mate with his pretty economical 330d how many city miles he gets off a tenner and he said 30. Mine is currently getting 35 on short trips which works out to about 30-35mpg. But my computer still says 19-20mpg. Used to display the same mpg with 25 miles to the tank before I changed things. Think the computer is a bit confused but the car seems alright. My injectors have no misfires anymore so you're may be the injector loom or something else injector related.

Yes it could but is it possible for it to be running lean when on idle as well? Isn't that what a high IQ means usually. I believe that was around 40°C or so but I'll have to check again next time I put the vcds on

I also thought it could be running cold. Maybe the CTS had gone bad. But the temperature on vcds more or less matches with the gauge. Takes a while but gets up to 80s eventually. Not bang on 90 but close enough to not be an issue I believe

By spot on, I doesn't mean zero. It's pretty close to zero but moves around when revved last time I checked. I thought timing was the problem but had timing checked professionally and through vcds and both seem to show no issue.

Yes the mechanic had it running for an hour whilst lifted from the front to check for coolant leak a few weeks ago but it didn't leak as the radiator only leaked whilst off. But he didn't notice anything else leaking either, no fuel or oil.

Where was your leak exactly? From the pipes connecting to the fuel filter? I had the filter changed today by mechanic with a service hoping it'd fix the issue maybe but no success.

I'd assume it'd be a fuel leak too but haven't noticed any leaks below the car besides coolant leaking from the radiator leak but I'm replacing the radiator next. For that much fuel to be leaking I'd surely have noticed it, or at least my mechanic who's been trying to find out the issue too. Feels like the car is just injecting way too much fuel. It has black smoke from the rear when I put full power down and smells of diesel but during normal driving it seems fine. Wouldn't even notice it has an issue until I'm back filling up again.

For over a year now I've had terrible mpg. Changed many things over time (some which needed it and other changes that weren't as necessary). But the same issue is still there, bad mileage. Got A Fabia vrs pd130 BLT engine with 1756 Hybrid turbo and had it mapped but removed the map when I blew my cams. Changed the cams for uprated cams but still bad mpg. Before someone says it's a timing issue, the timing is spot on as checked by vcds and also had the timing belt and water pump replaced a week ago. Since then had the boost leaks all sorted, fmic works fine, 4 injectors replaced as the values were all over, now idles smoothly but still **** mpg. Had it tested for vacuum leaks and nothing there either. Currently got it standard with no map but even with no map it's got bad mileage. I get 35 miles off a TENNER. It always seems to have a start-up issue too. Sometimes with it getting up to 600 revs, then dropping and then climbing up to 900 revs or so. Does this randomly, sometimes it'll start perfect, other times it'll do this, sometimes it will even sound like it's misfiring halfway up. I keep the key turned over for an extra 2-3 seconds while this happens. It fires up right away, just doesn't catch onto 900 revs for a few seconds. Anyone got any idea what that is? Genuinely can't figure this car out for the life of me. Vcds shows the map sensor has 0 on specified but shows numbers for the actual maf figures. Is that normal since it's a BLT? Vcds also shows the IQ is very high at 9 on idle. Any help?

Alright so fixed the Injector readings. All within spec now by changing the 3 Injectors that were faulty. Smoother at idle but still starts up funny with it hunting for revs (requires me holding the key over longer until it catches 900rpm) and still has mpg issues. The mpg is still half what it should be. So clueless rn. Got a tiny boost leak but I'll be replacing that one pipe soon and the fmic shouldn't have any leaks at all. Had vacuum leak tested and shows no leak. Going to do a service and hopefully that does something but I'm doubtful.

Does that test work on BLT engines? I heard removing the MAF only affects the ASZ models. But I'm definitely seeing if there is a vacuum leak since most signs point that way. Would vacuum issues cause injector problems too or would that be a whole separate problem? Glow plug relay has been there messing about intermittently so that's not a major concern right now 😂

I understand that but I still doubt it's causing these specific issues since its been happening since before camshaft change and cambelt adjustment. PDs are usually fine as long as they within tolerance. Gonna get onto checking vacuum lines, MAF and wiring because of the other fault codes.

Got my own vcds lite and scanned the car. It came up with these fault codes. Also the Injector figures aren't as bad, but injector 1 and 4 are still way out. Torsion is at about - 1.7 so I guess that's not causing the problems.

I'll be sure to check if it's not right on vcds asap

Camshaft was changed recently but its been the same as before just less knocking 😂 mpg isn't any different. So doubt it's related. Haven't changed the cambelt but assuming it's adjusted fine.

Injector wiring harness is definitely a thought as all 4 injectors can't be this off whilst still being driveable surely. When I changed the misfiring one it made no difference at all besides moving the misfire. So wiring could definitely be a cause. How much is the labour for the wiring harness to be replaced?

Checked and it was on exactly 0

Mpg is down to around 20 on urban driving and the car has slight misfires but normal enough to drive without issue. Misfire went from Injector 3 to 4 after changing injector 3. Injector deviation readings are also very weird. Can't seem to figure out exactly what's wrong as all 4 injectors seem to be off?

Torsion/synchro angle is on 0 so doubt that is the issue. Misfire has gone from injector 3 to 4 after replacing injector 3.

No but I told my current mechanic to do so before changing injectors, yet he didn't. So that's definitely next to check.

I'm assuming the mechanic did so when he changed it. These Injector readings and the mpg issues have been around since before the cam got knackered fully. The misfires are very minor until I changed cylinder 3 so I'm not even sure if it's bad injectors.

The Injector values are - 3.01, - 3.01, 2.99, 2.99. The values should be as close to 0 as possible. This explains why my mpg has halved in recent months but does not explain what is wrong with the car. Injector 3 read a misfire but it was changed and even worse after, so if that original injector wasn't the issue, what is? Anyone had any experience with this issue? Recently had camshaft replaced with an uprated camshaft kit as the original camshaft was knackered.

I think it's most likely the map as I bought the turbo and ecu off the same person and I found out theirs is asz not blt engined. So different fuel injectors which are mapped differently which is probably causing my issue. Thanks everyone 👍🏽

The standard intake may be a little restrictive. It's running about 238 bhp and plenty torque so it may make a difference. Just need to find a cheap one off Facebook. Thing is, the throttle response is slow when parked and revving off the clutch, but fast when pressing the clutch. Then when actually driving, the response is slow when pressing the clutch to downshift.

Well I could rev match it well before this hybrid turbo upgrade but now ti doesn't rev as fast when downshifting. But I'm definitely open to buying a pd160 intake to improve things so could be a good idea.

It'll ignite right away, but if I don't hold on for a good 2 seconds extra, it'll die. But I've noticed this happens only once it's warmed up. It'll start up, albeit slowly, but without it dying. Definitely need to get this checked out. Got my mind boggled.