InSaNeCaT

How secure would anyone that's used wiperblades.co.uk say they were? It's just that I noticed the checkout.php page that requires full billing name and address etc is not encrypted and I was gonna order a set off them....

I'm gonna sing the praises of the FK452s again... still in awe of the grip/traction/feedback of these tyres on my remapped TFSi. What's more, with about 6-7k 'spirited' miles on them they have about 5-6mm of tread left. I'm usually lucky on previous cars/tyres to get 10k before replacing the fronts, so considering the grip levels I'm amazed how well these are lasting. My mate with a 6MPS got them after my recommendation and reckons they are better than the Potenza RE050s he had from factory (but then I had Potenza S-03s before them and they get pwned too imho). Although with his heavier 2.3T and 260bhp I reckon his fronts are wearing faster than mine :P I'm tempted to try Vreds but unless I got a real bargain on them I can't see past the FK452s atm

nvm.

I got mine through Adrian Flux last year when I modded the car. I believe it's like for like replacements on not just the car but any mods you have, and while I think it's ridiculus that factory fit options should be treated as 'mods' at least they should be covered properly by a modified specialist insurer. Also of note for me was that my modified quote (remap and filter) was cheaper through Adrian Flux than the standard quote from directline who I was with previously.

P6000 = Teh SuX0r That would go a long way to explaining your problems described above. Wouldn't put P6000s on the driven wheels of a car with more than 100bhp and half decent torque never mind a 2.0PD that is 'enhanced' :eek:

I've always felt a slight juddery feel in 1st-2nd range with the vRS. No rattle or anything... just a slight judder as it takes up drive. Was never sure if it was summat to do with just hitting turbo spool rpms then dropping back out when going up a gear.... don't like to rev too high in 1st on 'normal' driving so as to keep it in the 'zone' and stop it dropping back out of turbo-on rpms, so maybe this is cause? :confused: Done it since I got the car with 9k miles, now at ~29k.... hasn't got any worse. I think (hope) it's just the way they are made/designed. It often makes me wonder if it's my driving skills that suck but then I just remember how silky smooth my CTR was and know it must be the car and not me... well I hope so at any rate. I find it isn't quite as pronounced with the ESP/traction control off which is my modus operandi anyways

Falken FK452s. I've got them all round now and it's the first time I've got the exact same tyre twice on a car. (Had P Zero Neros, Michies, Potenzas and other so called top names previously). These tyres are way beyond their modest pricing - I just hope they stay that way. My mate with a 6MPS swapped from Potenzas all round to FK452s on my advice and says they stomp all over the RE050s he had. My mate with a CTR had the goodyears, then Toyo T1-Rs, and I finally persuaded him to try the FK452s... he can't wait til his final pair of T1-Rs wear down so he can get FK452s all round I just hope they don't discontinue or over inflate (no pun intended ) the prices of these bad boys so I can get them for ever and ever

*ouch*

I've got a K&N replacement filter fitted. I noticed better throttle response and slightly better pull from mid to high revs. It was a more pronounced improvement than when I fitted a K&N into my old Civic Type-R. I'm guessing because it's Turbo vs. NA. Some don't trust the oil based filters but I've had no issues in ~15k miles since fitted and I know the guy who owns the car parts shop I got it from... he reckons they are better than the foam based filters and sells about 10 K&N for every 1 Pipercross. I get mine at trade price so I'm just going to get a new one every 20k rather than risk cleaning and re-oiling which I reckon could be the cause of probs as I wouldnt trust myself to get the amount of oil just right. (yes I know that's not very eco-friendly of me but it's cheaper than fixing my car)

Not sure about the bit you have mentioned but my brackets for the engine cover mounts on the front facing side went a bit loose. The bolt is a b*****d to get into to tighten, but that stopped my engine bay rattle.

I got a Maxi Cosi Tobi Maxi-Cosi Tobi - Black Reflection Fitted using seatbelt and it's a really nice tight fit in my vRS. Also got the big rubber seat protector thingy (neatseat) in mothercare which helps grip the child seat into place as well as protect car seat Highly recommend... it's got decent side protection, nice headrest which stops head rolling about when asleep in it. Seems very comfortable... my wee boy (just over 1.5yrs) slept in it most of the way from glasgow to nairn on our summer holiday with no complaints when awake.

2.0FSI Sport Official 0-60 was 8.9s iirc, so a bit under 2s slower to 60 than a vRS (on paper at least).

I'll go for this option then Cheers

Just got a call about this from my dealer today? Either they're as 'on the ball' as ever, or the economic downturn has taken longer to affect them before they've had to call in older update work to keep them busy lol. They referred to it as a "recall" too :confused: Just to try and scare you into bringing it in so they get paid perhaps? Anyhoo... is there any more detail on what this is and how important it is? *touch wood* car hasn't gone into limp mode yet or failed to start (if these are issues it resolves?) and let's just say I don't want to have to travel 140 miles to Star Performance and back to get my car back to 'normal' Should I bother booking in for this update? Oh and one more question... if a remap flashes your ecu program (completely rewrites it?), and then getting an ECU flash at dealers wipes your remap... would getting the remap flash back on not just overwrite the standard (updated) stock flash anyway? I think Jim at Star said my GIAC flash had the latest VAG ecu version on it anyway so I'm thinking I don't need to book in but some reassurance would be nice from anyone who knows more about this stuff than me (which would be most of you lol)

I'm on my 3rd skoda atm and havent as yet been directly affected by a similar issue, but reading stuff like this makes me not want to buy another skoda just out of principle. Get your act together Skoda!

I'd stick with the Falkens... I can't believe the grip and traction they provide, wet or dry. Even with the regular downpours we get up here in Scotland resulting in loads of water on the roads they haven't given me a moments doubt yet. Even in snow and icy conditions last winter they pleasantly surprised me :-)

Even worse than laguna above... my first, last and only french car, also a renault (Y reg megane), needed new pads and discs at the 18'500 mile service. Warped or some such nonsense was the reason they gave. Before the renault I had my dad's hand-me-down nissan sunny which was my 1st car (H reg) which was still on orignal discs and 2nd set of pads at 70k miles when I got rid of it. Not a thing went wrong with the Nissan in all those years (low mileage admittedly). My Civic Type-R needed new front pads only at it's 1st service (12.5k miles). :eek: I've not kept any of my other cars long enough to need a service never mind new pads etc , but my Octy II vRS which is just over two years old and belonged to me for just over one year has done almost 27k miles (had 9k when I got it), just had 2nd service and is still on original pads and discs as far as I know... and it looks like they'll last til at least the 3rd at current rate of wear. It's been remapped for most of the time I've owned it and it's not driven slowly I tried to fight with the renault garage as I thought new pads and discs at 18.5k was shocking.... but I got nowhere with them . And that was just the tip of the iceberg of things going wrong/falling off that french P.O.S. But I wish you luck with your skoda dealership...

Having had a 2.0FSI Sport for nearly a year before getting the vRS I thought I'd add my tuppence worth. The Sport is surprisingly quick. You need to work it *hard* and use the revs but if driven properly it can go. However it will not keep up with a standard vRS in any gear above 2k rpm, never mind once the turbo is properly spooled up at higher revs. Immediately before the Octy Sport I had a Fabia vRS, which *felt* quicker than the Sport, but in reality wasn't as quick, or as sure footed, but that's another story.... In the real world some memorable moments when I had the sport include being able to push a Jag XK8 and a MeganeSport through the twisties (more down to the driver than the car though I suspect ) and the look on the MeganeSport's face was priceless as he gained some on me in the straights but I reeled him in through every bend... he prolly consoled himself that "those Octavia vRS's are quite quick" not realising it was "just a sport" lol. So even in a straight there's not more than a couple to a few car lengths between an Octy Sport and say a vRS/MeganeSport/Type-R etc but they are defo not as quick. The suspension is, as far as I know, exactly the same. When I got my vRS I actually was dissapointed in the suspension/handling after having the 'lesser' sport for a year, but I'm pleased to report that it was due to poor camber etc. settings, and a 4 wheel laser alignment and setup fixed that, making it handle amazingly just as my sport had. One thing I remember noting when I had the sport was that my speeds on several bends on my daily work commute were faster than when I had my CTR, such was the confidence it instilled. To sum up the Sport was a fantastic car with amazing handling, but it just lacked a bit of grunt - it is virtually a vRS without the Turbo and bodykit. I thought I'd be able to live with it and save some money but in the end I just had to trade it in for a petrol vRS and lose way more money than if I'd just got the vRS in the first place We live and learn...

I took a note of the settings from there last year when I got mine done due to twitchy handling and excessive wear on inner edges of rear tyres. When I got my before and after print outs it showed that the skoda dealer who I explictly asked to check this before I got the car were either imcompetent or liars as they were well out from the recommended settings before, and the after settings matched up to the ones listed above It transformed the handling and tyre wear now even

From what you said your computer was telling you, it sounds like you are on variable servicing and that it was indeed going to want serviced at 12k miles which sounds about average for the TFSI. My first one was required at about 12.5k-13k and is currently indicating next one needed in 800 miles with 26.2k now covered. It is defo down to the way the car is driven, how long between services which can be anything from about 10-20k or up to 2 years. This actually suits me perfectly as it's matching up to roughly how many miles I do a year so basically getting serviced every year for me. Going for my 2nd service on Saturday and as the car just turned 2 in June it's good timing for the 2 year brake fluid etc at the same time which I think it's needing as felt brakes a bit funny a couple times lately... So my advice would be to get your 1st service done in about 500 miles and get the variable trip computer reset again at this time.

Bridgestones typically have a very stiff sidewall. I only had a pair of them on my vRS in 225/45R17 form, spending time on both the front and rear wheels in their lifetime, and now that I have replaced them to have Falkens all round the difference (read improvement) in ride comfort is very noticeable. No more harsh crashing over bumps and potholes so maybe worth considering a change in tyres as mentioned eariler....

Just got another pair of FK452s fitted. After rotating my first pair to the rear for a while. So got them all round now, scrubbed in, and *VERY* happy The Bridgestone Potenza S-03s (one of B'stone's top-o-the-line models) I also had were light years ahead of the OEM Dunlops that were on it, but the FK452s best the Potenza S-03s in every department imho. I'd go as far as saying they are the best tyre I've had on a car yet, and I've gone through a few in my time

Now this sounds like a really good idea..... but what are the odds the dealer will just pass the car's MOT rather than acknowledge a list of faults that will cost them ~£600 that they will still have to fix under warranty? Or are they in so much trouble for doing this and getting caught that they wouldn't risk it?

Before remap I found peak power clearly came in last couple thousand rpm up to redline. Post remap dollops of torque from about 3-3.5k til 4.5k, then peak power til about 6.2k rpm. Since remap I've also noticed at about half way between 6 and 6.5k rpm I sometimes get a drop off that sorta feels like hitting the limiter, but I'm not.... maybe the DV? But defo wouldnt imagine power dropping away as early as you have mentioned :confused:

I'm also thinking about going for the EBC Red stuff, when my 1st set of OEM pads get replaced at the next service. Are these doofers definately a bit better than the OEM pads, and are the OEM discs not going to dissolve under them? Also, is it normally just a pair of fronts that you would replace first, and leave the OEMs on the rear, or is it advised to replace the pads all round to the same make? Next, are replacement, road legal brake pads considered a mod, if the rest of the brake setup remains the same and you just replace like for 'like' (as it's just a set of consumeables) when one set wears out? Oh yeah, and how much would a set of OEM skoda pads costs vs. redstuff? Sorry for hijacking thread with some more questions