Gazawee

Back after giving up for 1.5 years or so. Took it to another mechanic a tyre fitter recommended. Go a call to say they checked it on the diagnostic and it needs to have a sensor changed. They went on to say if that doesn't fix it, it will be the wiring. They didn't fill me with much confidence and I'm reluctant to have the change the sensor again given I had it done before to not avail. Annoyingly the car no longer has an MOT so legally getting to anywhere is going to be an expensive problem itself. Pointless getting it tested with all the dash brake lights coming on!

Is their a particular test or program I can ask them about? By the way, is there a sure-fire way of confirming if an injector is defective?

Is this reading of live data that most garages can do or does it require special equipment?

It's a 2l auto For the engine codes, I suppose id need to pay a mechanic to run the software? Are you able to recommend a good mechanic in the Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Surrey or West London area?

Not holding a straight line.

Hello, ABS action on braking (sensors changed - now told it's likely to do with very poor tracking) Start-up and cut-out issues: Need to rev the accelerator when turning the key to start up and cut's out in low revs. (progressively gotten worse) Gears often don't change up or respond while in auto mode - works fine in manual mode BACKGROUND: Car: LK auto octavia estate 2007 Mileage 76000 miles Owned this car for 7 years and in that time it's been a dream. Love the car to bits and was lucky enough to buy it from an older chap who regularly serviced but hardly used it. The only issue I started to have that has progressively gotten worse is laboured start-ups and frequent cut-outs at low revs (more so in reverse). I almost always have to rev on the accelerator as I turn the key otherwise it mostly won't start. It makes a judder, clunk, spluttering sound as I turn the key. As I say, this has mostly gotten worse with time to now do as described above. I have asked mechanics to take a look but they always seem to just shrug their shoulders and because it wasn't as profound as it is now, I just didn't bother. Anyway, perhaps a year back, I had a blowout on the motorway, I had to drive with the tyre flat and on the rim in places for a mile or more to get off the motorway (smart motorways' don't have a hard shoulder anymore) Not long after that, I started to get the low tyre pressure light come on. Every few weeks i'd top up the tyres and and reset that. I'd change the tyres several times but the tyre (s) would always lose pressure within a matter of weeks. Changing the tyre several tyres didn't resolve this. I then started to get the traction control , ABS, handbrake and low tyre pressure lights. Took it to a mechanic who changed the ABS sensors but the lights would come back. I then went to a decent tyre place where they checked and repaired a couple of vales that were leaking air. After that the mentioned lights mostly stayed off but would flash up now and then. Not long after that I started getting the ABS breaking action. At my witts end I took the car to another mechanic who first said it was the sensor. Upon some advice in this forum, I asked the mechanic to check the wiring to the sensor. He said the sensor and wiring were fine and changed some other part (wish I knew what it was but it cost my over £150and didn't resolve this issue). I then serviced the car with the same mechanic and now long after I started having gearing issues. In auto mode the gear would not change up and the speed would not increase as I pushed the pedal harder. Changing manually worked fine but not in auto. Anyway the last thing the mechanic said was that he now thinks the ABS braking issue is to do with the car badly needing tracking as it veers to one side and the cut-out/start-up issue is the injectors which are expensive! I don't want to just keep on pumping money out for things that probably just didn't need changing. I'd really really appreciate some advice. A mate suggested a swp around the wheels to help figure out if the issue is the wheel and also use some injector cleaner to see if it helps with the start-up/cut out problems (I ordered some Liqui Molly). Was also told to check if the gearbox needs oil changing or a filter changed to be the cause of the gearing issue? I'm also contemplating changing the wheels but they seem hard to find. Are there any tests a mechanic can do to rule out injector issues?

Apparently my tracking is way off and reckons it could be the culprit?

Just dropped it to a mechanic for some ABS issues I've been having. Thing is, the gearing seemed to change okay when I switched it to manual?

In my ownership no servicing specifically for the gearbox. I've had the vehicle for 7 years in which time I've put 40k on the clock. We're now at around 73k

I need to go out and drive it again to understand exactly what is happening but today for the first time, it felt like the gears were slow to change or wouldn't change at all. Even when I would slam down on the accelerator. In manual mode the gears would change but It just wasn't clear to me what was going on. It could be that either the revs didn't increase no matter how I pushed down on the peddle, or the speed would not increase as it had reached the max speed for the gear it was slow to change up from. Literally the speed wouldn't increase after a given point. Struggling to explain as I honestly need to wrap my head around what was taking place. Does any of what I said sound plausible to anyone? Of it does, any ideas of the likely issue?

So the door magically unlocked itself, but it now doesn't lock and the window still doesn't work. Are there any quick and easy tests I can make to diagnose what the issue might be?

Something I can check myself? Do I need to take off the mud guard

I'm not sure but since he replaced the sensors I suppose it said sensor issue.

Sorry, Wheel bearings Exactly

2007 Octavia L&K Estate Auto Traction control, tyre pressure, ABS lights and flashing red handbrake light come on after driving driving for 20min. I've had the sensors changed and computer codes reset and that didn't resolve it as they came back on. Then I fixed 2 leaky tyre valves and the lights are mostly off but still flash on fairly regularly. I also get the ABS braking action often even though I'm not on slippery ground. Mechanic reckoned my barring needed changing so do that but the ABS braking action and lights still flash up. I'm at my wits end and really can't afford to keep spending money on stuff that doesn't fix the issue nor need changing. I wonder if this might be from damage done to the wheel or drive train somehow when I was forced to co to use driving my car to safety for a couple of miles on a motorway after a blowout (happened few months the earlier)

2007 Octavia L&K Estate I can't open the read nearside door and the window also seems to have stopped working at the same time. All other doors and windows work fine. Any ideas? Since it's the door and the window, is it likely to be pinched wiring ? Really frustrating esperance I can't even get the door open to take a look. Please help

lol will do If it adds anything to this, the problem has existed since shortly after I bought the car but it has gotten progressively worse. Now it can cut out even in low revs when rolling forward or backwards.

Is that something I can see and check without having specialist tools and having to take out engine parts? Best left to a mechanic? Just want to be better informed when handing over to a mechanic if it isn't something I can check or sort myself.

No not as far as I recall

i think I know of an alternator specialist, I'll take it to them to check also

i think I know of an alternator specialist, I'll take it to them to check also

Cheers, It would be really annoying if the battery was an issue because I replaced it just 2 years ago. Start-up has been laboured for a while and it cuts out a bit too frequently in low revs (while reversing or moving forward) which is why we replaced the battery (which had been quite old). Battery never resolved the issue and for some strange reason, mechanics never seem that interested when we raise the issue (worried it might be a problem beyond economical repair else they'd say) But okay, VAG scan is a good shout and I hope they have such a machine.

Hello all, Hope someone might shed some light. Around about a month ago a bunch of lights just started to appear on my dash (ABS, ESP, Tyre Pressure) and just this week, the flashing red handbrake icon would come on 30min into my journey. So I have had a problem with a couple of wheels losing tyre pressure for quite some time, but all I do is top them up every once in a while. The tyres have been changed several times but they still loose air. I've raised this with successive tyre fitters but none have done anything about it to understand why it is is happening. I took the car to a trusty mechanic who said there was a dodgy sensor and he also said one of the calipers was binding. He replaced the sensors and caliper but the lights came back. Now going back several months ago I did have a blow out on one of those NOT 'so smart motorways' and had to keep driving on the rim for around 1 mile. I wonder if that screwed something up. Anyway, id love to understand what to do about it because I don't feel at all comfortable using the car with brake system warning lights displayed. PS, my Googling about also brought up something about ABS reluctor ring being the culprit for some others who had similar issues to minbe! Please help

Yeah that too. Had to change my fob battery but since I did, the all windows down or up command don't work. I followed those weird instructions to get it working again but nothing

I have a 2007 L&K Mk2 Octavia estate and my lock/unlock button besides the handbrake has become really unreliable. I say that because it does actually work on occasion but I haven't worked out if its a solution on repeated pressing or if it depends on how much pressure is applied. I suspect the adjacent light socket has something to domwith it as they went titts up around the same time. One thing I should say is that somehow a pen got wedged into the lighter socket with some other bits of debre...when we pulled the pen out the pen was very hot. Electrics are something I know nothing about but I wonder if that pen screwed things up somehow because the socket and central locking button are very close to each other. Would love some guidance?