crazytony

Found the breather pipe on top of the rocker cover if that's the only one. A struggle to get off the pipe as the plastic collar baked to something resembling bakelite. Is it necessary to remove and clean the pan-shaped item that's fixed through the top of the cover ?

Thanks for those thoughts. I was clued up about the oil pick-up strainer, but not about the engine breather system - what does that consist of and where to look ? A mechanic neighbour mentionned the importance of the colour of the oil warning light but i just couldn't remember the colour as i've only seen it once as had the car just a couple of weeks. When i repaired the sump plug thread i topped up to Max on the dipstick so it's probably taken a few local trips to get down to a warning light coming on. I've only just found out that the plastic dip-stick tube/guide could well be a bodge using a length of white plumbing tube (i see they are always orange), which would mean that unless the bodger got the length of the white tubing dead right, all readings of the oil level on the dipstick could be wrong. New dipstick tube on the way ! Just hoping that the bodger hasn't superglued or fixed the white plastic tube to the lower metal part with any kind of adhesive...

Thanks for that, i will look at the Wynns. Yes to the thinking behind putting the sealant on the inside of the bolts - i think the leaks i've got are from exactly those places so someone moght have put it on the outside of the bolts in the past. Just found this amazingly detailed guide, with a staged tightening of all the bolts - https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.9_l/96_kw_(tdi)_engine_mechanics/engine_lubrication/removing_and_installing_oil_pan/ Is the Wynns a silicone based one, and does it dry (too) fast ? In that guide it mentions having only 5 minutes to get the pan fully on - too rushed for me!

Hi all. Involved i trying to bring a 2002 Octavia 1.9TDI Auto back from years of neglect by previous owner/s. First job on noticing a very high level of oil on the dipstick, investigate drain and replace with quality oil etc...first negative: silicone all over the sump drain plug never a good sign...the plug almost fell out when i started to turn it, so bad was the damage to the thread in the pan. I tapped the thread out 1mm and fitted new matching plug, no problem. But the oil warning light came on while driving next day, so uderneath again, the sump pan was smeared with fresh oil misting. Cleaned up the whole area and drove far enough to get up to temperature, and on getting under again, a clear dribble of oil coming from around one of the sump fixing bolts. Checked all bolts and they were pretty tight, already tightened i guessed. So new sump acquired, and as i've never fitted a sump without a gasket before, i'd appreciate any advice about which type of sealant to use for this job - there are of course hundreds out there. I'd prefer one that doesn't go off too fast as i like to have a relaxed approach to jobs! Finally, is it better to run the bead of sealant along the outside of the bolt holes, or along a line inside the holes ? I've seen both specified. Any other tips on this job would me much appreciated. Thanks.