VXturncoat

Hello I have an '07 petrol vRS with 55k - hasn't put a foot, wheel, whatever wrong in all the time I've had her from new. This week, she's behaving strangley on idle. 5 times out of 6, she will slowly increase revs up to about 2000, then drop down to about 6-700, repeating every 10-20 seconds or so. Doesnt' make a difference how long she's been running - she'll did it after stopping at the lights after a quick sprint all the way up the A/M23 last night. Engine temp stays firmly in the middle and recently topped up the oil. Throttle response also feels a little off, maybe 1/2 a second or so. Any thoughts, all you technical geniuses (geniae?). Hoping this is something I can clean and not a garage job just before Christmas! Thanks! Anthony

Hello Hoping someone a bit more "mechanically sympathetic" might be able to answer this for me... I had an accident about a month ago. The "third party" (apparently my insurer would prefer I didn't refer to them as "the numpty") pulled out of a side road and straight into my front nearside wheel, damaging the wheel arch and throwing the tracking out significantly. The insurer repaired the wheel and tracking straight away However yesterday my Octy vRS failed it's MOT due to a cracked cv joint gaiter - same wheel. The other gaiter was fine. RSA are "quibbling" over whether the crack is likely to be due to the accident or not - the MOT inspector wouldn't be drawn on the cause of the damage, but another mechanic seemed to think, off the record, that it would be due to the prang. Any ideas? Worth fighting with RSA? Do "cracks" appear in these boots as a matter of wear and tear anyway? Thanks in advance Ant

So in my post here I explained that I was going to have to fork over £1500 for the a clutch after it went in the snow last week. I want to p-ex the car next year for a superb so didn't want to go down the non-standard option. Now the clutch and DMF are replaced, I've been told the car won't go into 3rd or 4th and that the syncros (?) are out on the gearbox - either £2k for new gearbox fitted, or £800 for labour and then necessary parts to repair the gearbox. Can anyone sense-check these prices?

Hauptman, thanks for the advise. the car's only done 26k so don't know what the best thing to do is - haven't had the full quote yet, so depends if the DMF is a large part of the cost. Obviously getting lots of recommendations for the SMF, but does this have an impact on the higher performance vRS - what is the downside to the solid flywheel (i.e. why did VW go with the DMF in this car?) Thanks for the advise Ant

I have a 3 year old octy 2 vrs - typically just out of warranty so not covered there. It hasn't put a foot wrong in the three years I've had it - it's only been to the garage for it's services and I haven't even needed a new tyre. 26k on the clock. The clutch has been fine - haven't even noticed any movement in it at all - it's still smooth with no judder or smell in normal operation. I'm not a clutch-rider either. Last tuesday I got caught on a steep hill in a queue of traffic in the snow - obviously creeping up the hill in 2nd or third trying not to spin up the wheels. I was just in the process of pulling off the hill when my clutch complete seized - couldn't get it into gear at all with the engine running. Clutch pedal felt fine - wasn't on the floor or anything and still had good spring in it. It's finally gone into the garage today, and they have quoted me £1500 for a new clutch - they are claiming that the DMF needs replacing along with both pressure plates, and obviously the friction plates as well. They've sent me some photos. The friction plates are shredded (as expected) - I was expecting to replace them, but they are also saying the pressure plates and DMF needs replacing - I can see there is some darkening on the metal on the pressure and DMF plates, but I don't know if you'd expect that in normal operation anyway. Could someone with a bit of know-how tell me if a) 1500 is reasonable for all this, including 5 hours labour (they seemed to get it apart pretty quickly) and do the flywheels and pressure plates really need replacing. They are also saying that the pressure spring in the last photo can't be refitted - but I had good pressure on the pedal - is that the spring that provides that pressure and if so is it likely I need that replacing? Here's the photos: They are saying the darkened metal towards the centre of the pressure plate means that it's damaged due to heat - I would have thought 'heat' would be expected around a friction clutch?

ah, so it doesn't use the small media connector at all for aux in? Will give that a go at the w/e.

for anyone searching and stumbling across this, the answer is that the B units (later firmware) do support RSE out - you can either do some custom wiring or there are adapters sold by a couple of sits - search google for RNS510 RSE. Older A units (the one I bought is one of these) need to be firmware upgraded before this works, but not everyone is sure whether the upgrade works on skoda units. vwnavi has a couple of threads about this.

Hello Purchased myself an RNS 510 - all fitted and looks luv-er-ly! Nav, HDD, DVD & SD, all work fine, and it's updated the maxidot display so that as well as the clock I get a little compass bearing the whole time. Two issues - one's the usual rubbish CD changer quality issue so I'll swap the pins over this weekend (although i did have an MFD2 with Aux in already so wasn't expecting.this issue!) The issue I don't know how to solve is that the Aux in is available in the RNS menu, so it looks like it's coded ok, but I don't get any sound through it - it's the Jumbo-box aux in. I think this is down to the media adapter (not part of the quadlock) that the MFD2 was using looks like it's not a complete fit for the socket on the back of the MFD3. It fits, but doesn't lock and looks like there might be a larger one, so guessing the pins don't match. Does anyone know where I can get the new adapter / or what the PN is, and then how to update the wiring? Also, is there any other coding that might need doing for the swap? I'm hoping to fit the OEM bluetooth I've bought in a week or two, so will be needing to do some anyway! Thanks! Anthony

whoops - not the only one asking: http://briskoda.net/octavia-ii/will-steering-wheel-fitt/140044/

I wondered about getting a MFSW to go with my RNS 510 and BT when I get them fitted. Does anyone know if this: www.skodateile.cz would be a straight swap for my existing O2 VRs steering wheel. It's the one and only think I miss from my VX signum (apart from the celery holders in the roof if you've seen the top gear episode!) Ant

Hi All - long while since I joined / last posted. I'm getting an RNS 510, and just wondered if anyone either had experimented with putting rear screens attached to the RNS 510, or knew if it was possible? If so, does the handbrake switch affect DVD playback for the rear screens, or just the head unit? Ta Ant

yeah, I'm having the same problem with mine, can;t actually open the bonnet at the moment but haven;t had a chance to buzz skoda about it yet. Sounds like a common problem...

Hi All Had a play with the new Octy over the weekend and I was a bit confused regarding the Aux input in the jumbo box. Plugged my MP3 player and sweitched over to the Aux option on the MFD2. I found that the Aux 'channel' doesn't work, but the AV channel does work - which as it's an audio only source, I was expecting the aux socket to be connected to the aux in. Does this imply that if I get one of the deitz 1215 adapters to give me video or DVD input, i'll lose my aux in socket? I did see earlier threads asking how the factory fit MFD2's were connected to Aux in, so I don't know if this will answer any questions?

Aye it is! Just have to wade through the obligatory skoda jokes at work now...

...as vRS on drive! Finally it's here! Picked it up this morning and is perfect (apart from one quick trip back to the dealership when I realised there was no navi CD inside!). Got the diamondbright coating which I have to say makes the car look fantastic as well. Will take some pics when I have to sleep or run out of petrol!