Vstorm

Hey JR finally got car running again was the ecu. It would run for 1st startup but not restart once key off anyway the guys who did the ecu where really helpful they programmed with different software and now it starts first time. I only have one fault now fault code 008825 P2279 leak in air intake system mil on at 2036rpm . It smoked a bit under load then went into limp and a high pitch screaming whistling noise high pitch. I cleared codes drove it gently no issue or noise . I would like to test the pcb valve what is the best way to determine illuminate it as I can’t see any leaks on the air inlet side. Im thinking pull pipe off air inlet let it vent and block hole in air inlet drive it up road if fault not there refit it if fault comes back pcb faulty what do you think 🤔 👍 Any advice greatly received I’m hoping if I get that fixed car will finally run properly

Jr you are right car has been a nightmare to try and fix . Fitted new glow plug harness today still getting same fault codes glow plug 1-3-4 open circuit had new plugs loom and timer 😩🤪😜 I think it’s going to drive me mad one weird thing it did while cranking and testing today first few times I cranked no camshaft speed showing on vCDS tried again then I had 105 for camshaft sensor I replaced that with a new Febi one I am wondering if I should have fitted an oe one . I assume ecu needs cam and crank sensor signals to know when to trigger the injectors. The car originally ran well started first turn of key gradually got more difficult to start changed out parts vCDS indicated at fault camshaft sensor , glow plugs , glow plug timer relay, for open circuit on glow plug faults but that one has stayed even after fitting a new loom all the way to the big multi connector under the headlight. I have stripped all the wiring back to the battery continuity checked all wires no breaks chaffs or rubs can be seen.. I have sent the ecu back today I think I’m going to fit that and an ie cam sensor then I’m out if that dosnt fix it . If anyone wants it I’ll be selling as spares or repairs someone more clever than me can probably fix it it’s a nice car to good to break really and had had a load of new parts genuine egr valve, maf sensor cam sensor glow plugs glow plug timer relay and more. I’ll post my outcome after fitting ecu . Thanks

Morning JR I sent my ecu as he wanted to clone the data from it onto the one he was supplying.like you at same time he did egr and dpf delete and remap and transferred the original security code. I will update later with camshaft and engine speed as shown on vCDS.. We determined ecu as swapped with another known hood ecu not coded to my car. It ran for about 5 seconds then stopped because the immobilizer kicks in . but I believe this is a known way to check. I think I am going to send ecu back for him to check he says he can. Thanks simon

Morning JR I sent my ecu as he wanted to clone the data from it onto the one he was supplying.like you at same time he did egr and dpf delete and remap and transferred the original security code. I will update later with camshaft and engine speed as shown on vCDS.. We determined ecu as swapped with another known hood ecu not coded to my car. It ran for about 5 seconds then stopped because the immobilizer kicks in . but I believe this is a known way to check. I think I am going to send ecu back for him to check he says he can. Thanks simon

Thanks for the reply JR. I have monitored the cranking speed and checked camshaft speed and engine speed are both visible battery is 100 % I had heard of the injectors not firing if engine speed is low. no keys changed . the car ran fine then gradually got worse at starting . Changed camshaft sensor, maf sensor glow plugs glow plug timer relay,pretty much everything 😂 I have changed the ecu it was coded from my original car started 1st time I left it running for 20 mins thought great sorted. switched it off to clear codes tried to start it won’t start that’s where I am am up to now. is there any signals the ecu needs to receive to make the injectors fire I assume it needs camshaft and crank sensor signals they appear to be working on vCDS any others or anything else I should be testing . thanks again 😁

Hi everyone, after some help please still struggling with my Skoda. I tacked the fault down I think . the injectors are not pulsing . I have tested all wiring back to ecu and as far as I can tell it’s all good. I have the 5 pin injector harness where the screw on connector goes. I have 2.5 volts on the brown centre wire at the plug, then the same at each of the brown wires on the injector plugs. I put a noid light in one of the injectors plugs and got some one to crank it it pulsed for a few seconds . I thought happy days then did the rest no pulse went back to the one that did no pulse. Also viewed injectors in Vcds values are 0.0 when cranking no change I’m thinking ecu as I think that is what controls the injectors as they go straight to the ecu as far as I can tell. car starts momentarily on easy start then stops once easy start is used up. which is why I think it’s fuel. finally not sure if this relevant to the not starting . The only fault vCDS is logging after cranking is I have glow plug 1-3-4 open circuit I have replaced plugs still faulty pitting glow plug harness in tomorrow.there are no other faults coming up in the control unit .🤷‍♀️ Any thoughts suggestions would be greatly appreciated 👍

Hi All I’m getting these fault codes and car cranks but won’t start will start momentarily with easy start. can anyone point me in right direction to diagnose. I’ve tested all the injection and glow plug loom back to fuse box and to ecu for chaffed rubs continuity tested and wiggle all good ?🤷‍♂️ I can’t upload the images of the Vcds screen shot it says file size exceeded ? but the codes are 005732 PO1664 control circuit for PD injectors electrical malfunction mil on other fault stored once In J533 gateway 01314 engine control module 004 no signal/ Communication - Intermittent can anyone help please thanks Ps forgot to say it 2010 2.0tdi BMM engine type

I’ve tried some easy start cars starts but stops as soon as easy start is used up. So im guessing it’s a fuel issue which is why I was asking about the above another little anomaly I’ve notice. i removed thecrekay 100 inventive fuse box engine cranks glow plug light didn’t function steering wheel light and dpf light don’t come on . whenni put relay back in and they’re ignition on and crank dpf lightcsteeribg light and glow plug light blinking but is dosnt start 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ Help 😂

Hi all can anyone tell me what thecrelay in the engine fuse box does says 100 on it . dies it have anything to do with injector power supply ? Mid so any guidance on how to test or by pass it . im running out of ideas might be time to send it to the big breakers yard in the sky ☹️😞

I took ecu out and took back off no water damage ? also ecu tests as oknon Vcds until code drops in thanks

Thanks for the heads up I’ll check out the convience module where is that located ? mine is the 2,0tdi BMM engine. ill put the fully charged battery back on and see what happens I’ll report back 👍 thanks

Hi JR and MIc, thanks for your reply. i notes the engine appeared to be turning fast however when I connected battery charger this morning the amperage was a bit low. in the meantime while the battery is charging I decided to to check the injector loom . I removed rocker cover ping all the wires to the terminals on the round twist connector on the side of the head I also wiggled the wiring continuity still good. I also did ohms resistance all wires show 1ohm . did same on injector terminals continuity on all injectors 1o resistance: ( not sure if injectors should make a circuit when closed) or is circuit broken when the switch opens ? i then checked the twist plug that attaches to the side of the cylinder head and pinged all wires back to the ecu and wiggled loom all good 🤷‍♂️ I’m losing the will to fix it it’s fighting me 😂😂 mom going to reconnect the twist plug no make sure continuity is going through the plug if it is I’ll build it all back up and see what happens I’m out of ideas now. Maybe ecu ? But Vcds shows test results for ecu no faults most of the time until it logged the P1663 . i also don’t understand why dpf light and steering wheel light are on but not showing any fault codes for these in Vcds. Any more thoughts anyone? Thanks I’ll keep the post updated 👍

Hi All, im still having lots of trouble with the Bmm engine 2010 Skoda scout. its has new camshaft sensor, new mass airflow sensor new glow plugs new glow plug timer relay. Was running ok but kept going into limp mode and had poor starting excess cranking . Codes on Vcds open circuit glowplugs 1,2,3,4 this get stored intermittent in fault memory. camshaft sensor intermittent sometimes implausible . At this point the car is still running.so I decided to check the wiring to see if I could sort out the remaining 2 faults (glowplugs and camshaft sensor). i tested new camshaft sensor with a scope working as it should . I stripped back loom to look for chaffs along side of gearbox near starter I pinged out all wiring to the plug behind near side headlamp and shook wiring continuity stayed tested wires for glow plug rail and camshaft wires. Next I tested opposite side of plug pinged out camshaft wires at the ecu shaking wiring still all good . next I tested wires to glow plug relay all pinged out good shaking loom.pinged out the two thin wires from glow plug timer to ecu all good . removed ecu took cover off to check for water damage all good no corrosion board looks good. Now this is when I start to lose it 🤷‍♂️🤣 i re assembled everything put ignition on cleared fault codes tried to start would not cough or try to start cranking no sign of life checked fault codes in ecu no faults stored , tried it a few times 3-4 still not starting still no fault codes ( I noticed steering wheel warning lamp and dpf light on. tried again this time had stored 005731 control circuit for pd injectors P1663 shirt to plus mil on. i squirted in s bit of easy start it started but died suspect injectors not working. Any help please 🙏🤷‍♂️😂 im nearly at my wits end I might be selling it as spares or repairs at this rate it’s to nice a car to break it needs fixing 😂 Any testing / further ways to diagnose advice greatly apppreciated . please note I didn’t check the injector loom when I stripped the loom as I wasn’t having any problems with it. injector loom ? Thanks in advance 👍

JR does the torsion value effect the cam sensor ie if it’s not within range cam sensor gets signal at wrong time. also is there a way I can test it on the plug that’s connected to the sensor to try to isolate if it’s the loom on the car it plugs into or the sensor ? Thanks for your reply torson value is 1.0 btdc at the moment car runs nice just difficult to start excess cranking then store camshaft sensor implausible signal intermittent.

Hi All thought I had it nailed maf egr fault previous found fuse 29 missing which power the maf tested yesterday all was good apart from poor starting and camshaft sensor fault stored . fitted new sensor today still getting same fault excessive cranking to start and same camshaft sensor fault. amyone got any ideas ? 🤷‍♂️ Fyi the torsion value timing is 1.5 btdc should I aim for 0 ? It’s bmm engine in Vcds it say the range st tickover is 4.0 btdc to 2.0 atdc . Wouldvthe torson value effect the camshaft sensor implausible signal intermittent? Thanks 🙏