Big-b

Having real problems with this dealership and especially the lack of communication from the service dept. Number 1: had a service done recently and was told the car had a broken front spring that needed replacing and what the cost was. Fair enough gave the go ahead. Now bearing in mind the car had been there since 8:30am. I’m sitting waiting for a call to say it was ready. NOTHING!! Times ticking on so eventually I phone them to be told cars ready. So then an ensuing mad dash before they close at 17:30!!! Number 2: I booked the car in again for a warranty check on a wheel bearing, which I was pretty sure about and told them on booking in. Again dropped off at 8:30am. No phone calls, NOTHING! Phoned at 14:00 for an update. Told car was going through a health check. We’ll phone you. NOTHING!! Phoned again at 15:30. Still diagnosing the noise. 😡 We’ll phone you. 🤷🏻‍♂️ NOTHING!! So eventually phoned at 17:10. We’ve diagnosed a faulty wheel bearing, yeah that’ll be the one I told you about at 8:30am. We need to get Skoda UK to ok the repair, problem is they closed at 17:00. 🤦🏻 and we need to order a wheel bearing in for the repair. So another mad dash to collect the car. Nobody on the service desk had to the get the keys from a sales guy. Will I go back? Still waiting for a phone call on whether it’ll be repaired under warranty. Wonder what the outcome of that will be? I’ll post an update here if the unlikely happens.

Not a chance on my car. Pad carrier is tight to the disc. Maybe on other vrs models??

On mine carrier defo had to come off. So replacing stretch bolts on a critical component, ie braking system, was a no brainer. As it would be where else required like the hub bolts!

Having just had the joyous experience of changing the rear discs on the Octavia 3 vrs I thought it may be helpful to others to share some pointers on this job. I have years of experience working on my own vehicles, on the drive, and as competent diyer always like to in advance of tackling any job, especially now in the era of the interweb, do my research as to what’s involved and whether this can tackled at home. So, having watched various videos and read the posts on forums I decided to do this myself. I was concerned about the carrier bolts but with the correct xzn m14 bit and the right technique, pinched from a video, these were removed without too much drama. Now the burning question as to whether replace these stretch bolts or reuse as I had seen various theories banded about on the forums. Each to their own on this but I decided to replace as recommended by the Skoda workshop manual and torque to 90nm + 90 degrees. My theory being that Skoda aren’t recommending this just to be a pita it’s a safety issue and just good practice to follow their direction after all they’ve spend millions developing these cars I haven’t. I read on one post that a Skoda technician said they just tighten these bolts up good and tight! Wow, glad to see the hundreds of pounds spent on labour charges was money well spent on guess work. I’d be giving that garage a body swerve as they fail to follow Skodas recommendations! Heres a personal experience of incorrectly replaced/torqued bolts. Previous car was a mk2 vrs limited edition. It was in a Skoda garage for a new strut. The next day as my wife pulled into the drive she heard a clonk from the front of the car then came into the house with a sheared bolt in her hand explained what happened and asked if this is important. Too right it is and on inspection turned out to be strut to hub bolt! Phone call made to garage resulted in a pickup truck within the hour and car returned same day with many apologies. I quizzed the service manager on this bolt, which I had since read should be replaced, and was told it “looked alright” so was reused. It may have been over torqued or was due to fail but after pondering all of this I dread to think what may have happened if this bolt had pinged off while hammering down the motorway and nobody knew!! Another garage to avoid. I also read on one forum that a guy boasted about never using a torque wrench but just does all his bolts up good and tight. Note: avoid being on the road when this guys out in his car! Bolts have a varying range of torque settings to make sure they are not over stressed or are tight enough. Guess work and “good and tight” just won’t do when your wheels fall off. So whats the moral of the story? Especially on critical components of a vehicle. -Research the job in hand. -Buy a torque wrench. -Replace bolts that are recommended to be replaced. -Research the specified torque settings. -Sleep well, safe in the knowledge of a job done correctly.

Hi all, First time poster but wanted to share some info on fuel filters on the Octavia 3 model. So done some research on this and thought it might be helpful to others. So the original fuel filter housing (5Q0127401A stamped on lid) on my car came out the factory with a Mann filter fitted (pu8006) that filter was changed to pu8021 and recently again to pu8028, which is a longer filter. I opted for a vw/Audi original with part no. 5Q127177. Shorter and longer filters work perfectly well but now most seem to be the longer ones. The Mann filter,out my car, also had part no 5Q127177B on the bottom side. On the fitment of the filter removed lid, carefully lifted out old filter and allowed to drain, siphoned out diesel from housing and dried off, filled about 3/4 full with fresh diesel, dropped new filter in slowly allowing to soak up fuel, carefully topped up through slots in top of filter until fuel could be seen in centre hole, refitted lid tightening in a star pattern to 5nm. Car fired right up as quick as YouTube video when guy uses vcds and running sweet as a nut. Hopefully this is helpful in finding and fitting the right filter. 😉