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lacking power until 3krpm
There’s no obvious signs of a boost leak, no oil weeping from pipes and For how slow it goes id expect some black smoke 😂 it’s doing my head in now 😐
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lacking power until 3krpm
So on the n75 the top line goes to the air box, one below goes to the turbo actuator and the one at the bottom has a T piece which joins the vacuum reservoir to the servo line. This problem existed before I fitted the n75 anyway so I sort of ruled that out 😂
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lacking power until 3krpm
That’s what I was thinking… I’ve examined all the vac lines, and since fitting the new n75 valve there is no need for the egr and asv vac lines
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lacking power until 3krpm
alright lads need some advice on my fabia i have been experiencing a lack of power in 1st and 2nd gears. it is not completely gutless, however drives nowhere near as hard as it used to. Sometimes it will be slow up until 3k and then suddenly theres a noticable kick in power until i run out of revs. Really weird issue as i know that the gear i am in shouldnt affect the turbo in anyway at all really. some stuff ive tried is: check for fault codes - all ok cleaned maf sensor + checked wiring all ok check map sensor wiring all ok replaced o ring on turbo coupler eradicated all boost leaks confirmed vaccum present at turbo actuator (only through feel as i cant access vcds) checked for stiffness in actuator rod - moves freely no tough spots replaced vac box for n75 simplification it is worth mentioning theres an audible hissing while on boost which i have narrowed down to the egr blanking plate. I cant get it to seal for the life of me, its the darkside kit and ive used exhaust paste and a new gasket to try and create a good seal, but nothing seems to work... im wondering the the plate itself may be bent or warped. would this even cause such dramatic loss in power anyway? any advice greatly appreciated cheers
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shallow sump question
this got a bit toxic didnt it haha. anyway i fitted the shallow sump and it ended up taking about 4.4-4.5 litres before reading max on the dipstick. which im guessing is because the sump was completely dry, compared to a normal oil change when theres always a tiny bit left over. I know that the amount of oil i put in is accurate as i used a pump with an electronic gauge. ive had no problems so far so im happy with that, hopefully this can help someone in the future👍
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shallow sump question
so stick to putting 4.3l of oil as i normally would? and the dipstick will read the same? cheers mate
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shallow sump question
im going to be fitting a shallow sump to my fabia soon and i am wondering if a shallow sump requires less oil than the standard one? in my head this seems like a stupid question but id imagine that i can stick to using the dipstick as normal. even though the darkside shallow sump may hold less oil so long as the dipstick reads on the max line it should be ok right? cheers
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Underboost in low gears
It’s more a simplification. My understanding is the original vac box is basically an n75 valve anyway, but once you delete the egr you have no need for 2 of the vac lines. So you can clean up the engine bay a bit, and some say it controls boost better I think.
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Underboost in low gears
Afternoon everyone, im currently puzzled at an issue I’ve got with my mk1 fabia vrs ASZ. It has a front mount intercooler with egr delete and the n75 valve conversion done to it, and I’m finding that there is a significant lack in power in 1st and 2nd gear, and also it sounds like a noisy exhaust leak at low revs (so after changing gear or pulling away). Once in 3rd and beyond it pulls lovely, which is why I’m so confused. It doesn’t seem to smoke at all either. any suggestions are greatly appreciated, cheers!
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Front mount question
i want to buy the darkside hard pipe kit for my fabia as it includes the new turbo coupler, i am just curious as to whether it will fit on the seatsport cooler, cheers
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timing belt grinding after replacement.
turned out to be a faulty tensioner. i found in a group on facebook there had been reports of some recent gates belt tensioners whining and seizing, so i replaced everything with genuine bits and it sorted it right out. turns out i did fit it right in the end haha. thanks for your help anyway lads
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timing belt grinding after replacement.
The belt went on easy enough without locking it back. I think it’s to do with the order you put it on the pulleys. Also I forgot to say I’m an actually an apprentice and it’s the first cambelt I’ve ever done so apologies if my understanding isn’t quite good enough 😂 I’ve got a video here if the noise maybe that can help narrow it down. Cheers IMG_0351.MOV
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timing belt grinding after replacement.
I didnt turn the tensioner anti clockwise at any point, but yes there was spring tension on it while I was turning it after fitting the belt. I don’t understand what locking it in the most slack position would even achieve though?
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timing belt grinding after replacement.
Nope I fitted a different tensioner than that, looks like the one in this pic. Worth mentioning I fitted a water pump with a metal impeller not the plastic one.
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timing belt grinding after replacement.
ive had a look at that link and it says that they got rid of hydraulic tensioners mid 2002, my car is a 2005. also my timing tool kit didnt include t10008. am i still meant to turn the tensioner anti clockwise before turning it clockwise to set the tension on the belt?
higgins57
Finding my way
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