maxhill1996

Following up on the above, needed a small amount of coolant top up after the wor, but othewise has been holding steady! Great shout @3rdoctavia !

Hey I suggested this to the garage when I dropped it off and they said they found some evidence of residue and leakage, so hoping we've got it! Excellent shout!!

Yeah, suspect it was ongoing before the matrix clogged, but may have caused it and now leakage is somewhere else. Could be so many things, head gasket, egr cooler, water pump. Nothing fun, or likely cheap! 😅

Thanks for the reply Stuart! Yes it was actually a clogged heater matrix that started all this, lost heating on one side etc... got that replaced and then noticed the coolant loss (although probably ongoing before. But still slowly falling since getting that sorted a month ago!

Fab, thanks for checking! That's not too sad actually, obviously will have gone up, but still was expecting a lot more. Use a fantastic local pop and son indie garage who we've a good relation with so hopefully won't be horrendous as expecting a timing belt change soon anyway. Got a 2.0 diesel 4x4 so also have the under cover I think and liable to leak, so hopefully this helps troubleshoot! Clutch may be on the way out, due a timing belt change soon and with this on top seeming a likely good chunk of cash was starting to weigh up keeping her or not. 😅 Hopefully will get lucky and kill two birds with the one stone. Cheers

Ah ok! Having a mystery leak myself and local suggested either head gasket or egr cooler, so was hoping it was an easier fix. Monitoring atm, but will mention this too! May i ask roughly how much it set you back for the repairs please?

Hey Did this solve your issue? May be having a similar problem

Clamps at the bulkhead would be a great idea to limit carnage! Thinking engine bay or cabin side? (Can't remember if the metal piping that connects onto the matrix goes the whole way to bulkhead or not...). What was your plan for flushing? The bodge it hose it through after a quick blast of heaters on to get system fully open? Or use diagnostics? Same again for refill? This is the bit that's giving me hold up 😫

Hi all, Started having an issue with my Mk3.5 Octy estate a couple of weeks ago. Drivers side air vents blows cold air, whilst passenger side still blows hot air as normal. (The missus noticed whilst driving me home after a few beers and after adamantly disagreeing in my inebriated state, i miserably discovered she was right the morning after commuting in as Scotland got it's recent 1oC spat haha!) After having a flick through a few posts on here and reddit, my guess would be a buggered heater matrix/core that's got clogged up (currently have a silikat stamped coolant reservoir, which i think is the double walled one, rather than the bag). So far, have tried/checked: Resetting air vent controllers multiple times - no joy Whether it's a teabag/double walled silica setup reservoir - believe it to be the double walled The inlet & outlet pipes to the heater matrix, both are very warm/hot to the touch, with no obvious difference in temperature between them. So i guess my questions are: Is there anything else i should check/try/investigate to try and trouble shoot the issue? Am i right in assuming it would be best to change heater matrix & coolant reservoir & get the system flushed if taking to a garage? Has anyone had this done (semi-)recently at a garage and could give an idea of price? (ideally at a local place, we have a fairly sensible guy round the corner) I've scoped out attempting to replace the heater matrix myself. Given the value of a garage doing it to be up near a grand in previous posts and that the part is actually relatively cheap, with fairly easy access (that i've already managed), I was wondering how bad it is to do yourself? From video guides my biggest concern is draining/refilling the system. The actual matrix part change i think i could manage without any great issue, but don't have the diagnostic tool to command the system to open up valves etc... to properly refill the coolant afterwards. Nor a vacuum filler, but a pal with a compressor reckons its easy enough to get a cheap conversion kit to diy one apparently... So, is it possible to: Do the change without fully draining and replacing coolant, either plugging the pipes quickly or just carefully catching lost coolant and refilling that which is lost after or Easily refill the coolant once the system is fully drained and matrix changed, without a diagnostics tool (and ideally other kit) It's not a major pressing issue currently as still getting enough hot air to eventually warm the car up, just a ballache and might as well get it fixed in winter as it'll probably fully go eventually. Away for the holidays so can't chat to our local garage right now. If it's not a bad price I'd happily just leave to them, but know it is likely not going to be a cheap one... (They are very reasonable and sound, usually taking the 'if it don't need it' we won't do it' approach. Half hoping if i spoke to them and brought it in with a new matrix, access to the matrix via the glovebox already sorted, I might get a decent price. But ofc know that wishful and probably dumb/cheeky thinking!) Thanks in advance! ~Max :)

Hi all, After a rather inconvenient sunday night blowout the other day (and not the fun kind!), im wanting to put a spare in my '17 plate octavia estate which didnt come with one when i bought it. As i travel to random places sometimes quite off the beaten track for kayaking, and I've got the room for it, im of the opinion that a full size spare is defo the way to go. I know this gives a bit more leeway when travelling back than a space saver and can take proper weight (often heavily laden on paddling trips!), so figured why not just buck up the extra few quid for a second hand matching alloy with tyre that i can then just treat as a fifth addition to the existing set and use interchangeably (taking the pressure off for the return journey and sorting out the bum tyre). Does anyone know whether a 17 trius alloy with tyre will fit in the spare tyre well/ has done it before i go jacking her up, pulling it off and shoving it in to try? Also worth mentioning I ahve the variable boot floor, so would need it fitting pretty much flush under the bottom floor of the two. (Pic included of type of alloy currently fitted) Know the standard skoda steelie spare is 16 inch. Also whilst here... anyone got any recommendations of where to get a relatively compact jack kit that'll fit in nicely, as well as the central bolt to hold the spare in place? Cheers! Max