Adox

Thanks, varoom. I'll look for a VIN decoder online.

I have a 2009 Mk2 1.4 TDi estate. Is there any way of finding out if this has a dual-mass flywheel (without taking the engine apart!)? Thanks

I had to undo the tape binding the loom because the break was exactly on the edge of the tape. After soldering in a repair wire, I taped it all up again. Quite tricky because there isn't much room to work, there's little or no spare length on the loom and the wiring has that horrible hard insulation. Had to use a Stanley knife to remove the insulation instead of wire strippers. Good luck. It's worth the effort just to have everything working properly

Thanks for the reply and for the link to the previous forum thread. Very helpful and lots of options

No electric windows in the back and a note in the service history that a garage had charged to 'Disable rear door lock'. It seems that they unplugged it for some reason.

Well I got the rear door stripped and found that the lock had been intentionally disabled - by unplugging it. I plugged it back in and tried it, expecting a fuse to blow or something, but it seems fine. So now I have full remote central locking, for the time being at least. Also got the boot linings off and replaced the clips for the cover, so now that works as it should. If only I could get rid of the occasional rattle on idle, the car would be perfect.

Break in the weather and I managed to solder in a length of wire in situ, so didn't have to strip the door trim or take the door off. Will do for now. Best bit is that it has fixed the front door problem. Now all (except the 'disabled' rear door) lock and unlock with the fob. Again, thanks for your help PS. Can you think of any reason the previous owner's garage disabled the rear door lock? Shorting and blowing fuses?

I have a 2009 diesel estate. After about 20 minutes driving, I get a pain in my lower back and hip. Only seems to happen when driving this car. Seat looks OK, but perhaps has collapsed inside (previous owner was quite large). Are there any straight swap options for this seat? Thanks

Yes, I did force the orange clip back. Seemed to be lots of locking and locking as I did so, presumably the connector making a breaking contact as I wobbled it. No other obvious breaks. The purple/yellow wire has broken right next to the cloth tape binding the loom so soldering in a repair in situ would be nearly impossible. Is the best plan to take off the door card and take the whole loom out to repair it? Need the car in a minute, so have put everything back for now, but will take photos when I get back to it. Thanks for all your help. I feel I'm on track now. Then there is the 'disabled' rear door lock.... Oh, and the rear shelf locking clips ... Oh, and the clutch thrust bearing/input shaft bearing that rattles sometimes on idle ....

Yes, my mistake, it's pin 2

Managed to get the boot a bit further back and found a broken wire, but it is purple with a yellow stripe and appears to go to pin 3 of the connector

I've got the boot off at the A pillar end and no obvious breaks in the wiring, although not exactly easy to get at the tangle of wires. What's the trick to release the boot at the door end? How do I release the plug at the A pillar end? It looks as if the orange clip should click down from vertical , but seems stiff and don't want to break it

OK. So with a slight pause in the rain, I tried opening and closing the window with the key in the door lock. Worked like a dream. So what does that point the problem towards? (Too wet to expose the wiring yet)

I'll check the wiring loom (when its stopped raining). I presume its behind the massive flexible trunking near the hinges

Thanks for such a quick response, Breezy Pete. Yes, the car does have electric windows. I'll try what you recommend once the rain stops (its chucking it down). I'd be interested to know your thinking behind this manoeuvre. Shorting, cracked wire loom? Thanks again Sorry, I replied before reading your second message.