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spurf

Finding my way
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  1. Just bumping up my post as people are still requesting updates here. I updated mine using the files from the above website and it went very smoothly. There are a bunch of YouTube videos that will guide you through the update process too.
  2. Can confirm this update is borked as I had the exact same failure at 2% on my Kodiaq I went further and tried to force the update through the service menu which ended up losing all the maps. I recovered using the VW maps.
  3. Worth reading all the posts to get your head around th process
  4. I found this site that has the firmwares available for download https://www.digital-eliteboard.com/threads/skoda-columbus-aio-mib2-5-mhi2_er_skg13_p4526_1-mib2-mhi2_er_skg11_k3343_1-carplay-android-auto-ifs-root-el-patch.493556/ You need to register and the site is in German but chrome can translate it for you. You can download from mega or mibsolution.on (login details are guest/guest) Enjoy 👍
  5. Hi. Looking for the latest firmware for my 2019 Kodiaq. Thanks!
  6. Success! Ws able to flash the VW ROW 2024 using the System Information method. I had a look using the SWDL method but I wasn't able to unselect any of the options. Clicking on the green ticks didn''t change their status.
  7. Thanks @Tell \Wife is out with the car today but will have a crack tonight 👍
  8. I have been struggling to update my 2019 Kodiaq (Australia) with the maps downloaded from the Skoda portal HIGH12_P353_ROW_202345 I tried to manually update using the menu in System Information like I've done previously, but it would fail with an Error at 2% and the reboot. I then tried to update using the hidden Service menu and this time it got up to around 40% on the Thailand update and then failed and reset. This time it got stuck in a loop trying to apply the update which I managed to stop by holding the power button until it rebooted. Unfortunately now I have no maps and neither method will install the maps. Any ideas on what I can do next or am I stuck going back to the dealer?
  9. I was noticing that there was a weird sound as I was closing the right rear door on my bear the other day. Protector looked to be retracting OK but looked like it was just catching between the door and the frame before completing its retraction. Had a fiddle and the protector came off in my hand. On inspection found what looks like black gasket goop has been used to bodgy a repair! The bit that slides onto the door mechanism has a crack down the centre and is missing one of the two teeth at the end. It also looks like someone attempted to weld the crack back together with a soldering iron 🙄 I then remember that I took it to the panel beaters a few months ago to have a ding fixed near the door and that they mentioned they would have to remove the handle to blend the paint. After my initial annoyance from realising what they did I decided it was probably going to be a fight not worth happening and figured I would just order a replacement given they aren't too expensive. Unfortunately it's pretty difficult to source in Australia so instead I managed to repair the broken part despite the previous mangled attempts by the panel beaters. The attachment only has to resist the small amount of spring tension that holds it against the door when activated so doesn't need exotic materials. I rejoined the main crack with superglue and then fashioned the missing tooth by making a mould with some Blu Tac from the protector from the other side. Just make sure you make the mould from the corresponding missing tooth and spray it with some isopropyl alcohol so it doesn't stick to the Blu Tac when you remove it. I then poured some epoxy glue in it and let it set then superglued it back onto the protector. I used superglue as it sets quickly and has decent tensile strength albeit poor sheer strength but shouldn't be an issue for where the forces are at play here. 20220214_132509.heic 20220214_132545.heic 20220214_192236.heic
  10. Sorry to revive an old thread, but this just happened to my 2019 Kodiaq. I pulled fuse 17 for the instrument cluster to see if it was blown and it wasn't. Discovered incidentally you can't even start the car without this fuse! After replacing the fuse the screen came back on and noticed the trip counter was reset to 0. I'm guessing that there was a glitch in the VC that pulling the fuse forced it to reboot. Is there an easier way to reboot the VC without having to pull the fuse? With the infotainment system you can reboot it by holding the power button. Thanks
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