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I had the same thing with my 2017 vRS. I replaced speakers and sound deadened the door as part of an ICE install. But I think the main cause of the buzzing was the door card vibrating against the door itself. I put some neoprene tape on the door all the way around where the door card sits. It's been a while but I do remember struggling with the amibent plugs, I think they just pull out, but can't remeber if there is a retainer of some kind. Find a box or something roughly the same height as the bottom of the door card. That way you can sit it on there and work through the open window to see better whats going on.

Can't advise on the rough running, but as far as I am aware the temp gauge will pretty much always read 90 unless the engine is far out of range. My Mk3 vRS reads 90 from around 70ish degrees. My engine typically runs slightly over 100, but the guage always says 90. I have read it is a 'feature' to stop people fussing over the fact that an engines temperature is never constant and will vary depending on conditions.

Hi all, DSP is in and running nicely! So I'll answer my own question just in case it helps somebody else out. With the the system set to "Sound_System_external_BOOSTER" the frequency response is ruler flat all the way up to 16kHz where there is a slight roll-off. So I can confidently say that if you're installing a DSP, this is how you want your head unit setup. All the best James

Hi everyone, I'm upgrading the audio system in my Octavia vRS MY17. Already replaced door speakers (BLAM 165LSQ in front, BLAM 165RS in rear) and installed sound deadening. The sound is already greatly improved from stock. I'm currently running power and signal cables through the car ready for DSP and amps. I have been playing with OBDeleven and the various options for speaker output (module 5F, byte 11). In stock configuration the rear speakers have high and low frequencies filtered and only produce mid. If I enabled '..internal_individual' I can turn on Skoda Surround which seems to give a full range signal to all 4 speakers. If I enable '..external_BAP' I get a full range signal on the fronts only at moderate volume, but no volume control. I haven't played with the others yet. What do you guys think would be the best setting to get a good signal to the DSP, as clean and unprocessed as possible? Many thanks James

Hi everyone, The audio in my Ocatvia III vRS FL is just not doing it for me, so I'm planning an upgrade. It is currently running the stock Amundsen. The plan is BLAM 165LSQ in the front doors, and possibly BLAM 165ES in the rear doors. I'll be adding plenty of sound deadening and addressing the buzzes and rattles that seem to have been included from the factory. In a few months when money allows I will throw an Amp into the mix, probably the MATCH M 5.4DSP. I will also run additional power from the battery at this point. If I'm happy with the sound once the new speakers and Amp are in, then obviously I'll leave it there. Not against the idea of a small (10") sub in the boot if required though. I want to try and achieve a 'hi-fi' sound, not wake the dead. I don't plan on running new cables to the speakers, just using existing. Can you see this as a problem considering I'm not looking to push hundreds of watts? Also, anything else I should consider? Thanks James

Also interested in the cost of having this done to my '17 vRS

Hi everyone, I picked up a 2017 Octy vRS a few days ago (to replace my poor old 2006 vRS that was written off when someone pulled out on me 😪). So far loving it, and starting to not be so upset about losing my old vRS. However today I had a 'component protection active' notice. It went away after switching ignition on and off a couple of times. Is this something that is a firmware issue? Current system information: 5Q0035874C H41 0456 ...also, what is 'Shield'? mine is 2016-44 (build 309) Thanks

Obviously its better if a build up of gunk is not there at all, but does it actually hurt performance? My last Octy was a 2.0TFSI and had 175k on it (before she was unfortunately written off after someone pulled out across me) and it ran perfectly. It occasionally had the twitchy tickover which I hear is common on VAG petrol engines, but it never felt down on power. In fact my new (to me) 2017 vRS 230 doesn't really feel any punchier than my old vRS. Just curious what damage can occur the carbon build up, and if its something I should be worried about with my new Octy.