bobcr

Hi I have a couple of problems with my Roomster 2006 petrol Starting The car has always started first turn even though it’s left idle for months at a time but recently it’s developed a starting problem always from cold where it starts but then dies immediately and will need quite a few tries before it eventually runs then it will run and start perfectly until the next cold start. No warnings or anything untoward appears on the dash Windows All the electric windows have stopped working, the lights on the switch are on but absolutely nothing when you try any switch. They started by not working intermittently but now don’t work at all. Any suggestions are more than welcome on what to try

Hi can anyone tell me the description for this part with rubber bush on my 2006 Roomster please? Its on the right front side

I haven't used my 2006 Roomster since a garage had the engine out for repairs six months ago but I have just noticed the windscreen washers are not working and no sound from the pump. I have checked and changed various fuses mentioned on posts as its unclear from the fusebox diagram which fuse is responsible for the washers (left hand drive petrol car). I wonder if the garage have disturbed a wire or connector during the engine out work so if anyone can advise where to find any likely culprits that would be great. Advice on what else to check would be greatly appreciated.

Its not had the gasket done yet

Ac hasn’t worked since we got the car, light comes on when you press the ac button, I can hear what I think is the compressor kicking in when the ac is switched on but no cold air at all. Heater doesnt blow hot and when I feel rubber the pipes going in to the matrix tye feed is hot and the return is cold. The car was in the garage for diagnosing the blown head gasket and I asked him to look at these two items also. Genuine old school mechanic highly recommended by a friend.

I have had prices for replacing the ac compressor and heater matrix on my Roomster 1.2 petrol 2006 left hand drive. Both are high so interested to find out what’s involved in doing both myself. Any advice much appreciated

Mystery solved its a blown head gasket

Got the new pcv valve and although all over the net and youtube it says the pcv is a one way valve and you should be able to blow through it only one way I can blow both ways through the new one same as the old one, cost 40 euros which I thought was a bit steep but fitted it anyway to see how it goes

Bit of an update I had some confusing symptoms recently,rough idling when cold, random misfires , epc light, check engine light, limp mode on hard acceleration and excessive oil consumption so removed the pcv valve today and found I can blow through it from both ends. I believe it’s only a one way valve so guessing the membrane is toast and this may be the cause of some or all of the problems and contributing to the emissions failure Going to order a new valve tomorrow.

Yes the plugs they supplied come up when I search for suitable plugs for my model I didn’t gap check as I read online the plugs come ready set to the correct gap and I dont have a set of feeler gauges available here

Changed plugs in my 1.2 2006 roomster petrol today I noticed the ngk plugs given to me by the parts shop are different to the ones that were on already just wondering which is right or maybe both are ok originals were zfr5p-g new ones are zfr6t-11g epc light came on not long after fitting the new plugs not sure if that’s connected not had a chance to read any codes yet any advice appreciated

Very useful info

It doesn’t say any % failure just gives the figures in my original post maybe I will make the changes you suggest and then get a local garage to check the emissions before taking it back to the testing station Central Portugal

It doesn’t say any % failure just gives the figures in my original post maybe I will make the changes you suggest and then get a local garage to check the emissions before taking it back to the testing station

My 06 Roomster petrol failed emissions part of the inspection test today in Portugal I have to take it back within 30 days for retest but wanted to know if anyone has advice on how to reduce the emissions values . The car had been stood for a few months as I don't live here all the time and was tested successfully only 2000km ago . I drove it hard for half an hour on the way to the test station and kept it running while waiting for the test. the fail certificate is in Portuguese but I can see one test is taken while revving 0.2% and the other is taken at idle 0.3% then a line about Lambda value outside +or- 0.03 or not in accordance with engine specifications any advice is welcome on how I can reduce the numbers.

So will I need a particular type of obd2 to usb cable to make this work with that pin or will any cable be ok with the correct ends ?

I was advised that the vcds lite software on my laptop and an ftdi cable would do the job so going to try that

Thanks all advice appreciated I will check that

Big delay responding here because the car is in Portugal so I only get over occasionally. Four wasps nests in the door pillars to get past but I don't think thats causing my heater/a/c problem, stung four times getting them out ! I just scanned the codes with a cheap vw/skoda obd scanner and got the following codes Engine 16687, 16955 SRS 00532 ABS 01314 A/T shows 1 code there but linking error when scanned so cant see the code number None of these seem to refer to the hvac module so do I need to scan this another way ? cheers

Thanks that's very helpful

It says on rosstech lite is for pre 2006 vg cars will it work 2006 on mine is 2006

I will try that thanks is the cable usb for laptop to obd2 connection?

I have been trying to scan fault codes on 06 Roomster 1.0 with cheap vw obd scanner but not getting everything stored I think. is there some download software or some other way to do this better?

Big delay responding here because the car is in Portugal so I only get over occasionally. Four wasps nests in the door pillars to get past but I don't think thats causing my heater/a/c problem, stung four times getting them out ! I just scanned the codes with a cheap vw/skoda obd scanner and got the following codes Engine 16687, 16955 SRS 00532 ABS 01314 A/T shows 1 code there but linking error when scanned so cant see the code number None of these seem to refer to the hvac module so do I need to scan this another way ? cheers

It has a knob that you turn hot to cold, nothing changes just stays the same outside air temperature whatever setting with or without ac light on