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Rebuild Engine - Bad stuttering/hiccups when accelerating and very hard to rev past 3000 RPM.
Definitely didn’t mean to disassemble the pump itself, quite a complicated bit of tech there, what I meant is would I see anything when taking it of the engine - but from what I’ve researched that’s not the case. That being said, they don’t cost all that much, so I will just replace it along with the in-tank pump. Thanks for the help and I will keep posted.
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Rebuild Engine - Bad stuttering/hiccups when accelerating and very hard to rev past 3000 RPM.
Worth a check anyway I suppose That's definitely a valid point! Is there any way to test this? Would it be visible on disassembly? Everything controlled with vacuum seems to operate correctly, the turbo was also providing the correct pressure according to VCDS.
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Rebuild Engine - Bad stuttering/hiccups when accelerating and very hard to rev past 3000 RPM.
Update: Not fixed yet but we have a first diagnosis. I’ve visited a bloke that has access to VCDS and some spare time and we went for a longer drive to see live data and what the sensors were saying. Checked all the values that could be relevant - including EGR readings and some other less obvious things. While everything was correct, there we’re really no values standing out too much, the only thing that was out of place (which we noticed on the graph) was the amount of fuel flowing to the engine/injectors. (Sorry for a poor description I’m not a technician and only know the basics). This means that the first suspect is the in-tank fuel pump. I will be replacing it this week and let you know the outcome 🙂
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Rebuild Engine - Bad stuttering/hiccups when accelerating and very hard to rev past 3000 RPM.
Makes sense. Around 200 miles.
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Rebuild Engine - Bad stuttering/hiccups when accelerating and very hard to rev past 3000 RPM.
Just following the shop's recommendation, not a fan of that either lol You're saying I should take it to a motorway and give it full gas for some miles even if it's stuttering like hell and see if that fixes the issue?
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Rebuild Engine - Bad stuttering/hiccups when accelerating and very hard to rev past 3000 RPM.
I've had a rebuilt engine fitted into my 2008 Octavia 2 vRS, it's a 170hp BMN engine. During the break-in period I drove it very lightly (never exceeded 2000 RPM) and it drove great, but problems begun after starting to push it a bit further. When driving in any gear other than 1st and 2nd and accelerating past 2-2,5k RPM the car stutters (sort of rocks back and forth) and then after a few seconds or re-applying the throttle accelerates further, but struggles to move past 3000 RPM (I have not managed to get it past 3,1k RPM). First though was to check the fuel filter - so I did that and checked and replaced as a precaution, also added some injector cleaner additive, but that seemed to do noting and the issue remained the same. No warning lights on dashboard, no smoke or anything that could be obviously noticed. Scanned fro faults as well and there was nothing logged, so any help would be greatly appreciated!
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2008 Octavia 2 2.0 TDI RS - No response to throttle on low RPM, Pulls good on high RPM and when engine is warm.
2008 Octavia 2 2.0 TDI RS Common Rail Engine with a DPF and EGR. When pulling away the car has absolutely no power, up to about 1800 rpm it does not respond to the throttle at all, then it's mostly fine but also sometimes hiccups on rpm's from 2000 to 3000. Any idea for a diagnosis?
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2008 Octavia 2 2.0 TDI RS - Starts and instantly stalls, oil pressure light comes on.
Confirmed with the second key, it's not a fault of the immobiliser also checked, yes there is a separate light for it. I know it lights up during start up normally, but in this particular model the oil pressure light never lit up with the ignition on before, or after stalling and definitely not with an obnoxious sound like demonstrated.
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2008 Octavia 2 2.0 TDI RS - Starts and instantly stalls, oil pressure light comes on.
It's Skoda Octavia 2 Combi RS 2.0 TDI 170HP Common Rail Engine with a DPF, would you like anything else as far as details go? Wouldn't that make the immobiliser light illuminate? Also why would low oil pressure come on? Anyhow I'm going to try my spare key in a second and let you know the results.
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2008 Octavia 2 2.0 TDI RS - Starts and instantly stalls, oil pressure light comes on.
Pretty much described my issue in the tittle, here's a video to help you understand. https://imgur.com/a/BeM6k0z
actuallyitschris
Finding my way
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