Ata84

Skoda Fabia MK2 2009 1.2 TSI Patrol, Manual transmission Engine code: BZG There are no automatic light setting. It has to be switched manually From few months ago, I see that day lights are not running anymore and I have to swich to parking lights or nigh lights for main headlights to work. I have checked a few fuse that I know and they are all fine. I also took out the 484 relay and could not see any visible cracks or issue with it. Previously I used to have issue with the wires that go from the driver side door that they break and cause certain issues (one of them for some reason was headlight issue but in that case it was just driver side light and it would not work at all) but those were fixed. Any idea what could be the cause. Or should I just go ahead and change the relay?

So I got new battery but same issue persists. And now I think whatever was failing has completely failed as I could not get the battery sign to turn off even after reving. There is no clutch, just pully So either its regulator now or alternator control wires? How can I rule out wire with multimeter or do I have to do visual inspection under car?

So I guess getting a new battery wont help in this case. I guess the only way to check brush is to take the alternator out?

`How to check if the clutch is fitted. And is there any video or pictures or thread on where these control wires are?

I am having what seems like battery/alternator issues in my Skoda Fabia 1.2 Patrol 2008 and I am trying to get to bottom to issue before starting to replace parts. The problem stared a month ago where sometimes I get a blink of red battery sign on dashboard after I start the car. I didnt thought much but then I started getting this battery sign for longer time once I start the car. I thought maybe something is draining the battery. This being skoda means that some parts always have electricity even when car is completely stopped (the lighter outlet for example). My first thought was glove box as I always thought that light is always on for some reason. I put camera in and saw that even when I close, the bulb is still on. I just removed the bulb and kept on. But I would still get the battery sign after starting. I went on vacation and my friend started car once and said there was no sign. I came back after 3 weeks and started the car after some freezing temperatures and it started without issues. Still got the battery sign. I kept driving as the battery sign would go away after a while and I kept thinking its because the battery is discharged and the light goes away once its charged enough (seems like I was wrong). What I did observe at that point was then when I did cold starts, there was no light. But if I then stop (like I go to market and park the car for some minutes) and then start again, I get the battery sign. So a few days ago when I got similar behaviour I thought the battery would eventually charge but as I was driving I saw electrical systems slowly fail. First I got ABS sign, then I got handbrake warning, then power steering died and then a few more signs before eventually the car died completely. I was able to park it for the day. Next day I got a multimeter and went with my friend to jump start. I could see that battery was showing something like 11.4V. So we connected hist car and was able to charge. Then we were able to get the car running. The battery sign again showed up again . When running, I checked with multimeter and it was showing 12.6V or something so battery wasnt being charged by alternator. I asked my friend to rev up a little and he reved to 4k-5K RPM for few seconds and then I could see the voltage jump to around 14.4V and the battery sign gone. We were then able to get the car back home. I kept the car running for a while and when I checked the voltage again while running it was showing around 13.8 or 13.9V. Now after that what I have been observing. When I do cold start, I get battery sign but if I rev up enging, it goes away and I could see the battery being charged. When I do a small stop or when I start the car again when the engine is warm, I cannot get the battery to charge no matter how much I rev. Once it start charging and I drive a little, the next day, before starting when I check my battery it shows around 12.8V which seems like battery health is ok. Once the alternator engages, I can drive for hour and it keeps working fine. What I have done so far, is: Check alternator fuse on battery which seems to be fine Clean battery connector While running shake battery connectors and alternator connector (what I think it is) and see if battery sign goes away - it does not I can see that alternator is always spinning throuhg belt even when I have battery sign. Not sure if there could be slip or if its slow but looks fine. As I mentioned, once the alternator start charging, I dont see battery sign again until I stop. So I am not sure where to start looking for issue now. I read a few threads here and some of them suggest some wires under the car but the link to those pages have no pictures or the pictures were taken down so now sure what to look for. Any help here would be good before I start spending.

I didnt checked the wiring personally but thought the mechanic would have. Anyways, the mechanic troubleshooted the issue. So he got thinking when I told him "If I start the car and the brake padel is not pressed, then I get the ESP light on and it does not go away until I restart the car." He took out both back light casing and checked the bulbs. Some time ago I had installed LED brake lights after changing them multiple times getting frustrated. Turns out, they were the ones causing this issue. He replaced them with halogen and the problem went away, never came now. I was really surprise how can LED cause this warning. The LEDs were perfectly fine. Does anyone know if LEDs work on my type of car? and which one to use because I really dont want to change too often.

Hi, I have failed yearly check on my Skoda Fabia becuase of ESP warning light coming on dashboard. A year or so ago I was driving on street road where there was part of the road that was dug up due to some construction work. They had put a big metal plate on top of the whole for cars to pass through but there seemed to be some part on the right side that was not completely covered. While driving over it, at very slow speed ofcource, the right front wheel of the car fell in that hole and something under the car hit the surface. There was as loud bang and after that two things happened: 1. The central locking system went crazy. The car was locking and unlocking every second. This went on for few minutes and then the frequency dropped. Later that day, the problem went away completely and never really came back. 2. The ESP light came on. The light went off when I stopped and started the car but it would come back on at different times, almost randomly. Later I found out that it mostly comes on when I make a full right turn. I had the car checked and the mechanic ran code check. The error code I got was 00526. We changed the brake light switch but the problem was still there. Later, we changed the ABS sensor on right wheel as well but still the issue is still there. Although after this, the frequency of getting the ESP light while driving was lower then before. After checking more I found two things 1. If I start the car while pressing the brake padel, I dont get the ESP light on. However later during driving it may come on due to some turn or for example I have seen it turn on when I drive over a puddle of water. 2. If I start the car and the brake padel is not pressed, then I get the ESP light on and it does not go away until I restart the car. I have seen that this happens all the time. Even after changing brake light switch as error code suggest and ABS sensor, I am getting this ESP issue. I would like to know if someone here has seens the issue or know what else could be wrong. The mechanic says that the next thing to change could be the theeth on wheel but I am not sure why they could cause this intermittent issue. Any ideas?

I was really hopping I can remove some side panel on the handle to access the buttons. There are few videos on youtube that do that but my handle looks different

Hi all, So the cruise control buttons on my Skoda Fabia works but the speed down rocker button dont work all the time. I can press the rocker button up to speed up, but if I have to speed down it dont work all the time. However, if I move the control to high beam position - pushing it towards dash board, then the button works. It seems like some wire issue or something is broken inside the handle control. I am not sure how to check or how to open the control to fix any wiring issue that there might be. Anyone know the way to check the wires without opening the whole steering - I really want to avoid that. Or if someone knows there is some other issue here?

It was just oil and oil filter change and spark plug change. Nothing else. Air filter seems clean but not changed, I have however ordered a new one just to change it as well. Dont know about MAF or what it is, will check around. Battery was change some 4-5 months ago, so its very new. I think the gear changes have been a little jerky lately. The clutch has always engaged at a certain point mostly, so it doesnt have a long range when I start depressing it but it felt like a little down on power or maybe I am a little paranoid with this new problem I have. I have scan tool, but the workshop guy said he ran the scan and could not find any issue. There is no warning light on dash board. The only other thing I can think of are the coils but checking online I dont see any symptom's related to that.

These seems to be by NGK. Checking around here in forums, people dont seem to like them. But there was also an option from Bosch which seems like OEM for Skoda for sparks?

Hi all, My first post here so I hope I can explain my issue in good way A month ago I did service for my skoda fabia mk2 1.2 tsi. The service place told me its time to change spark plugs as well at 180k km. Luckily I had bought spark plugs from autodoc so I told them I will bring my own. Before changing spark plugs I had misfire issues when really pulling. Usually 1-2 misfires but everything else was fine. After service that problem is gone. I bought bosh spark plugs with 0.9 mm electrode gap. After 1 day of service I felt that the car was vibrating when idling. Now its not uneven idle of sort, but its like wave of vibration that goes through the car. If I stand outside or open bonet to hear, all looks fine. This only happens when engine is hot. When its cold, all look ok. The biggest difference I see is when I am at very low rev and dont balance the clutch with power ie power is a little low or when car is standing and i turn steering. Its like engine stutter alot and then gets better. If i keep moving steering left and right, its stutter every now and then but there is no clear pattern. Its like normal idle, then stutter a sec, then normal. Also I dont feel car has same power at low revs when I dont balance power with clutch. It dont stop but stutter alot. However I dont see issue at higher speed. Its runs like it did before. Now I am not able to get hold of original spark plus specifications so if someone know where to get it then maybe I try to change spark plugs again. Stoll I dont know ifits spark plug related. The garage did some visual inspection from outside and looked for codes but nothing . No engine light as well. I dont find much difference in fuel consumption after service however. Was expecting it to be a little better.