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Zaid

Finding my way
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Everything posted by Zaid

  1. @Breezy_Pete oh okay, thank you so much for your guidance. This car has become super annoying suddenly.
  2. Hey @Breezy_Pete, as suggested by you I ignored the control module error and went ahead and fixed the wiring for the outside temperature sensor and the problem still persists. I was reading somewhere that the compressor needs to be calibrated or that an adaption must be selected after a compressor change to tune the ECU and compressor. Will I have to do this? Can that be the problem? How do I proceed from here? please help. Thanks
  3. Hey @Breezy_Pete, sorry for the messy images. I don’t seem to find the text file of the scan, however I can go ahead and type the data that is in those images for ease of access for everyone. Before cooling stops coolant fan stage 1 ON coolant fan stage 2 OFF compressor load 85% comprossor shut off 0.0 refrigerant pressure G65 12.6 bar After cooling stops coolant fan stage 1 ON coolant fan stage 2 OFF compressor load 0% comprossor shut off 12.0 refrigerant pressure G65 7.4 bar Can the outside temperature sensor wiring cut off be the reason for EcU to give the shutdown signal to compressor? what else will I have to check to pin point the error if this doesn’t work(I ask because this error was not there earlier but the problem of AC still persisted. I suspect this to be a new error arising out of rat bites from when my car was parked at the technician) please help me @Breezy_Pete,thank. I am very grateful
  4. Hey @Breezy_Pete, I got my kkl cable and I got an opportunity to test the shut down code on my car as suggested by you. Turns out I’m getting shut down code 12. Both the stage fans are being switched on as well. How do i proceed with diagnosis from here. Please help me. I also noticed that the outside temperature sensor that comes in the left part of the bumper has been cut off die to rat bite (I’m going to fix it - can that be an issue as well), Also when the car is being driven I’m getting an internal control module error. I’ve attached the images of the scan. The other errors like high pressure sensor error, etc were cleared upon clearing the codes however the internal control module error continues to pop up even after clearing after driving the car a bit. - https://www.transfernow.net/dl/20241017cnoRMwgo
  5. The fans are spinning at low and high speed. Atleast thats what it looks. Immediately switching off and igniting the car again starts the AC cooling. If the car was heating- the AC wouldn’t start almost immediately after it was switched off and switched on, right?
  6. Okay so now there is another update. I have changed the expansion valve, condenser, and compressor since this system was contaminated. But unfortunately, the ac still shuts cooling after 45 minutes. This is super annoying, no electrical fault reported in scan, ac system completely flushed and replaced. Ugh!
  7. Actually the 00898 error popped up today on the official authorised dealership scanner. I have attached a pic of the scan. I thought you noticed it. Sorry
  8. Yes I’m aware of the systems of replacing the left component with a pressurised system and the right thing needs to be replaced with removing the refrigerant and charging it again. The temperature of the surrounding was 28-29 degrees centigrade. Could it be a wiring issue or the power switch to the compressor malfunction. When i search for the error 00898, it shows videos of the switch.
  9. I mean i changed the high pressure valve. Sorry my bad. The high pressure switch is what I was told. I’ll attach a pic of things i changed. Have a look. yes you are right the second photo of the manifold was immediately clicked as soon as the cooling stopped(you couldn’t feel the car getting warm yet, it will take some time) if i waited further in sure the compressor wouldn’t start again and the gauge reading would change.
  10. Hey @Breezy_Pete, it will still take a week for my generic kkl cable vag com to arrive from china. meanwhile I took my car to the authorised dealership to run some test and this is the test that came out, i have attached it with this post. i have also attached the before cooling goes off and after cooling goes off low and high pressure on the manifold. Have a look. Thanks
  11. I’ve ordered a kkl cable which will take 7 days to arrive. Turns out it is not very easily available in India. I will look for local shops as well tomorrow. Just curious if this device will work too - https://amzn.in/d/a5LgFbW - looked interesting. Let me know. Thanks
  12. Okay ill get back to to you with what it says. Thanks Ps -just curious what is a better problem, if they compressor does shut off or nah? Thanks
  13. Okay i can connect the kkl cable to the free version of vcds. And then run a scan before the compressor cutting off and after it cuts off, if the compressor says shut off it is wiring problem it it doesn’t says **** off it is compressor problem. Am i right? Sorry for explaining it in a noob way. Thanks
  14. Thanks @Breezy_Pete, do you think i can set up vcds and study it on my own? Can i fix this on my own? I don’t have much knowledge regarding low pressure and high pressure and gas, etc. I’m not getting a technician good enough to do this. Please help. Thanks
  15. Thank you so much JR for your post, my car has a wall controlled compressor and not a clutch controlled compressor. i dont know how to set up the vcds myself and my technician in India has a tablet with which he scans my car. my car has a climate control module that states no errors found. However i couldnt find the AC control module. if you suspect a clogged expansion valve, how do we explain power cutting off to compressor and bulb going off (bulb connected to compressor wire to test power)? Please help. Thanks
  16. I own a 2008 Skoda Fabia, and recently I've been experiencing an issue with the AC. It cools fine for about 30 minutes, but then the cooling stops, although the fan keeps blowing air. To get it working again, I have to turn the car off and on. I visited a local AC technician who thought the issue was with the compressor wall, the high-pressure switch, and the water pump (since he noticed the engine was running hot). I replaced all of these parts, but the problem persisted. While replacing the compressor wall, I noticed a black oil-like substance leaking from the compressor. However, the technician assured me that if the compressor or condenser were the problem, the cooling wouldn't work at all, not even for the first 30 minutes. We also tried removing and reinserting the same evap sensor below the steering wheel and noticed that the pipes were getting frozen when removed and the ice melted when inserted. I then took the car to a different technician, who tested the power supply to the compressor by attaching a light bulb to the compressor wire. After about 30 minutes, the light went out, indicating the power was being cut off. When the car was restarted, the light and the AC came back on. He was certain that the issue was electrical, not with the compressor or the AC system itself, since the cooling would restart once the power was restored. We scanned the car, and the only error that came up was related to the drive battery voltage ("implausible signal"), which the technician said wasn’t related to the AC issue. He ran tests on various car modules, and while checking, the wipers activated randomly, and the AC started cooling again, only to stop after 30 minutes as usual. Despite the tests, no significant errors appeared, except for the battery voltage issue. The technician now believes the problem lies with the Body Control Module (BCM) and suggests it needs replacing. I'm unsure if this is the real issue, especially since I initially thought the black oil in the compressor indicated a fault with the compressor or condenser. Could it be the BCM, or is there another potential cause? I’d appreciate any advice. Please help. Thanks
  17. Okay so 2 years back when i posted this question, i went ahead and changed the compressor wall(in some models clutch) without reading the answers here and the problem was resolved. Now 2 years later, this problem has started again and changing the compressor wall didn’t help too. We tried sensor swapping, no improvement. ac shut downs after 45 minutes or so, but first 45 minutes nice cooling. Technician says nothing wrong with fans as well. The ecu doesn’t show any errors. The temperature of the car was 145 degrees and we found out that the water pump bearing was faulty so changed that, still no luck. Please help
  18. My 2008 Petrol skoda fabia does not cool after 35-40 minutes. The Ac blows out air but it's not cool. Last year I had changed the compressor and condenser and the problem started since then. Earlier my mechanic had connected a relay switch as a temporary solution to this problem connecting the compressor directly to the power without the ecm claiming the ecm was at fault. Ac worked but i was not happy with the connection as it worked only on setting 2 and fan didn't work. So i made him reverse it. I have now changed ECM and Fuel pump but the AC problem continues to happen. To start the AC again I'll have to switch off the vehicle for a while and then start only for it to work for a few more minutes. Please help. First 30 minutes the cooling is really cold. Scanning shows no error. Is the compressor faulty. Is it the evap sensor?

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