TadyTheFish

Hey sorry for bumping in... is this the same pinout as for 5E0 035 874 A?

Hey man do you have the pinout for the number 8 connector?

Defenetly not the head gasket. Even if it was It can't drip on the exhause haders. I can see the top of the headers are oily. These engines have the head in 3 parts. On the cylinder you have the head it self and on the head you have the camshaft module and on top of that you have the valve cover that includes the PCV valve. I tought that maybe there is a leak between the head and the camshaft module, but i glued an aluminium L profile to the module so if it leaks between the head and the module I would still smell the oil, but if it leaks between the module and valve cover it would stop and the oil would accumulate in the L profile. And I do have oil acummulating there, so it must be the valve cover wich is new

Hello So another oil problem with my MK3 VRS TDI. A year and a half ago I completely rebuilt my engine. I had the typical oil consumption problem. My rings were shot. I have replaced everything there is to replace while doing the rings. The engine worked great and I made 40k+ km. but after 20k I noticed that the engine is oily so I blamed it on the PCV valve. This was not addressed at the time so I bought a new one. Before replacement I noticed from time to time a burning oil smell. I saw that some oil dripped down on the exhaust pipe so I quickly bought a new cover, gasket, bolts,... I took off the old one, cleaned everything and put the new one one, I applied some sealant because I wanted to be on the safe side. When assembling I tightened the first pair of injectors to spec (7Nm +270°) , when tightening to angle I ripped the threads from the head when I came to 180° (shocked, what the hell). So I disassembled everything, drilled the thread out and inserted a heli-coil, cleaned everything reapplied the seal and assembled everything back together but this time I didn't want to push my luck so I tightened the bolts 7Nm+180° (It seems to b e holding). Test drive was OK but after 50km I smelled the burning oil again so I took a look and the back of the cover is leaking again and the 1 cylinder exhaust header is oily. I'm out of ideas on what is happening. New cover and new gasket is leaking more than before. So I did some MacGyver **** and glued an aluminum L profile the whole length from the 1 cylinder to the 4th, so if any oil leaks from the cover it gets rerouted to the gearbox section. After 10km of test drive I took a look and the whole length it is oily and no burning oil smell so it is definitely coming from the head cover. Any of you out there with a similar problem. For me it is interesting that the oil is only leaking on the backside, the front is bone dry. The leak is more or less always (even from before the change and before my rebuild always the corner (or a little to the right) of the 1 cylinder Thanks

Well in march i did the service on my Octavia... She has done 4500km since then and the oil droped for about 2mm so my work was a success 😁

Thank you!

Hmmm maybe something worh checking out but I doubt it since this is an low pressure system. I takes the exhaust after DPF and routes it before the turbo I made a new thread about this since i basically highjacked this one 🙈 maybe throw some ideas there 😁 and thank you for your help! https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511732-mk3-vrs-tdi-starting-problem/

Hello I just finished rebuilding my engine because of high oil consumption. I changed - piston rings - con bearings - conrod bolts - head gasket + bolts - head seal - valve seals - crank seals - module bolts - oil pump belt - glow plugs - injector copper seals and rubber o-ring - all filters - new oil And other bits an pieces I reinstalled the engine and bleed the fuel lines with VCDS and without the glowplugs I cranked the engine a few times so it would pickup oil and refill the block and head Then I inserted the glowplugs and to my surprise it didn't start. I measured the compression and it was about 12-14 bar on all cylinders. I called my friend who is a mechanic (i'm an elecronics guy and a DIYer) and he told me that this is normal and I need to run the engine for the rings to set. Then the compression will rise. After alot of thinkering I left the car over night on a charger and the next morning it fired right up and ir ran for a few minutes. Then I gave it some gas to about 1500 rpm, when I let go of the pedal the rpms start to fluctuate at idle and it dies. I could not restart it. I cranked it for quite a while and no sputtering nothing I pulled out the injectors and they fire when cranking. I again bleed the lines and nothing. I again left it over night on a charger and the next day it fired right up and again it died. When it runs it runs normally. Today i'm leaving it without the charger to see what will happen tomorow. Does anyone have any advice on what to check The only measurment I currently know is that the fuel pressure fluctiates between 380 and 440 bar when cranking and that the compression was 12-14 bar now after two runnings its at 16bar The friend told me he had something similar on a ford. His porblem turned out to be the oil pump regulator. It was giving too much pressure and the tappets expanded too much and they kept the valves open. I cant test the pressure until I make a fitting on the pressure switch The next thing I can think of is the crank position ring. I needed to change it with the seal i didn't have the special tool so I marked down everything and I am certian it is in the right position. I screwed it on with three bolts so its flat with the flywheel surface (i am planing to check the signal with a scope). One of the members here suggested the EGR system? Thank you

Today I didn't do anything. I had no time. But I stopped by and tried to start the car. It fired right up.. After a few minutes of idling it just started to run funny (no noises) and just died. I couldn't start it back up so I'm leaving it overnight and check again tomorow. A friend of mine suggested that maybe the oil pressure regulator is stuck and delivering too much pressure and the tappets too expand too much?

One fault that says Databus error. I searched google and it should say there is an error on another module. I have error lamps for ABS and ESP. These should clear once I drive the car, VCDS can't clear them 🤷‍♂️. I eill rescan the whole system and record the waveforms

I would also like too get a wiring diagram for a MK3 VRS 2014 DSG please

Oh and I measured the fuel pressure during cranking it jumps around 380-440 bar

So here is an update. On friday evening we gave up and put the battery on the charger and we let it be. This morning my friemt went to his garage and gave it a go. He cranked it over and the car started and ran for 30 seconds then he shut it off. In the evening I came over and we started it again this time we left it running for about 3 min then I gave it some gas and it climbed to 1500. When I let go of the gas it idled but the RPM started to fluctuate and then I tapped the gas once more it died and it refuses to start. So thinking there could be some air left in the system we uncrewd the injector fittings and I used VCDS to start the low pressure fuel pump. Fuel came out from the nuts and then we cranked it with the nuts undone. We tightened the nuts and gave it a go. Some help from the starting spray and it started again. And it idled for 30 seconds and died again. Now we could not start it back up. Even after bleeding the system again and running the pump for 3 minutes. We rechecked the compression and it went up to 16 bar on all cylinders. Now we don't know what to check or do 🤷‍♂️

Mine does not have the VVT... Just a blanking plate.. But it shpuld bi something simmilar. At least i can see if the timing is ok I can check of the crank sensor wheel and timing belt

Here is something I can try.. To see if the phase is correct.. The signals should be similar CLICK

I will investigate ofcourse.. No i don't think that it could be off by 180 degrees.. I will first do a leak test and remove the cam cover to see where I'm at. I'm just scared sh*tless that there is an issue with the rings because I didn't gap them. I'm 100% certiain that they are inserted correctly and in the right order

No I dont have the tools. I locked the cam and pump with 6mm pins. The crank was set with the AC pulley on. The pulley has a marking that aligns with the marking on the plastic cover. Its marked OT i think and if I put a screw driver in the injector hole it seems like TDC

On thin engine you don't have an exhaus and intake cam but a mix.. One came has 4 intake and 4 exhaust lobes. One cam is driven with the belt and on the other side you have two gears that drive the other cam. The cams can't be taoen out but you rather change the whole module. I didn't dismantle the gears so cam to cam timing has to be correct..

Injector seals are new.. I even took out the injectors and tested if they spray right hillbily stlye 🙈 My friend only did the head, even the tappets and rollers were numbered so they are not mixed up, the cam module was fitted by me

Ok TDC of compression stike.. I presume that this is when the CAM sprocket is 180 degrees out of the locking position? If talking about the first cylinder😁

Maybe I can use the fitting for the compression test. It screws in the glow plug... Any advice on how to do that? I assume fit a gauge an a valve to shut off the air supply? What about the position of the tested cylinder bottom dead center I presume? Never done that but I am quite handy

I have spaced them 120degrees appart.. Oiled everything and put them in the way they were. I assembled the head without the camshafts and rotated the crank 90 degrees so all pistons are in line. Then I assembled the camshaft module. Then I carfully put the crank, cam and pump on the marks and assembled the belt. Then I handturned the engine 3 or 4 rotations carfully paying attetntion for piston-valve contact... Everything went smooth. I don't know how is the head. My frient rebuilt it. Removed the valves, changed the seals, and reseated the cleaned valves 🤷‍♂️

It was assembled yesterday.. No luck today.. Checked the riming again ad it is good 🤷‍♂️ a friend also pointed out the tappets. He suggested to take them out and squezze them. I don't know. The only mistake that I made is that I didn't check the gap on the new rings. A friend works at the autopart shop an he checked tje order and they should fit

Whell... No compression.. 13bar,14bar,12.5 bar, 13bar. Tripple checked the timing and it is spot on

Well the engine is in but it does not start🤦‍♂️ when starting it wants to start at first then it just cranks. Any advice? I first need to check the compression. The second idea is the timing. The cam an crank and pump are spot on the factory marks any my markings so the only thing that remains a mistery if the sender wheel that I changed with the seal under the flywheel. I did check that the hole is vertical when 1st cylinder is at TDC Is there a way to check this via VCDS? I didn't have the special tools for mounting the sender wheel but I did mark down the old one and new one and refitted and the hole aligns to the mark on the housing when at TDC If the compression is good the easyest way would be to trace the signals from cam an crank and compare with a working engine?