Ryanjev

Fitted an alternator that I picked up from a breakers yard, and problem solved! No more traction control light and lumpy idle Thank you again.

Would spade connectors do? I’ll definitely try that, at least then I’ll have a definite answer that the issue is on the ECU side if it doesn’t end up being successful.

Thank you, I’ll definitely try a new voltage regulator then. Am I right in saying that if the DFM wire was broken, then I’d have 0 volts right?

The voltage regulator also has clear signs of damage to the casing, so the connector is held in place with a cable tie currently

The whole alternator was replaced around 12 months ago with a second hand one. I don’t have any issues with charging/power randomly dropping either, and the issue was there before the alternator replacement. Voltage shows 14.40v at battery terminals with engine running, and 12.70v with engine off I believe. I replaced the battery with a new yuasa one last year. Alternator plug shows 12v exactly on DMF & 11.80v on the blue wire***

Hello there, I’ve had this issue on my fabia vrs for a while now. After doing quite some extensive research, everything points to the DFM wire that runs from the alternator to the ECU. I’ve cut back this wire fairly close to the alternator plug, and as far as I could go under the battery tray obviously getting rid of the problematic connector. I’m getting 12.5v on both pins when disconnected from alternator with ignition on (common to get similar voltage at both pins on a diesel), and have also got a battery light on the dashboard with ignition on. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)

Hello! This is my first post so hopefully it’s in the correct forum I’ve recently purchased a Mk1 Fabia Vrs which has been sitting for 1-2 Months outside my home. It’s a project car and awaiting new parts. A problem which has developed is a eml fault code P0236, which is Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance. I’ve had an oem plug/connector re-wired in, as the wires had damage to them (previous owner done a poor job connecting a new plug. I’ve had it professionally done with solder & headshrinks. The sensor itself is fairly clean, it’s a 4 bar. I’ve purchased a new one (same part number) which is a genuine bosch sensor. Gave that a go, and still no luck. Once I clear the code, and start the car it will boost. As soon as I turn it off and try again, the light is back on and no boost. Can anyone please give me some advice? The problem has come to surface after it’s been sitting for a while. I presume there would’ve been some warning signs if there was any turbo issues (1756) & the car’s not been driven to develop any boost leaks (someone please correct me if I’m wrong. One more question, will the new sensor have to be mapped in? It’s the exact same part number. I’ve heard some say yes and some say no. Thanks!