2thin2swim

Can you PM me? Not sure if I can reply, as I've not got enough content, apparently. Let's give it a go.

I don't want to drag any names across the dirt. I'm sure lots of other customers with other faults have driven away happy. I'm just a bit sore having been taken down a route which I never agreed to follow through on - I just wanted to explore other potential issues BEFORE swapping injectors. Do you have VCDS, @daveo138 ? I'm Hope Valley way. I'm keen to swap the injectors and do the coding myself. I've got icarsoft CR pro, which apparently can do the recoding. I'm gonna have a look tmrw. But not sure if that system can also prime the fuel pumps back up.

Do you still have the VCDS @Andymod ? (Sorry, I can't DM as I haven't got enough content submitted to qualify for messaging!) I've got a Skoda 3T TDI which will soon need some new injectors coding in. We've just been conned out of a grand by a VAG Specialist who was obsessed with it being the ECU. But the misfire on cylinder three persists...

I do, but I've already tried the repair. So it's a bunch of awkward connectors, made at different legths, all crammed into the door jamb boot. It's horrible, but I definitely put all of the right wires in the right plug pins. I even made a diagram and tick list, then triple checked. It is probably my most shameful repair attempt and I'm highly unsatisfied with the result. 😔

And 3T2 rhd?

Interesting. You'd imagine that pre 09.2009 loom parts would be more abundant and lower cost? And I guess that's why I seem to be able to buy one from Slovakia. It's still €179 though!

And 3T2 rhd?

It's great to find out I'm wrong and not insane. Thanks!

Defo 3T2...

From my OBDII reader...

Loom number is 3t2971120CC (but another thread on here suggests that the 'CE' suffix is the updated part number to get)

Ooooh. Which dealer offers that price? I tend to find dealers only offers door plates, boot guards and service items... Thanks for everyone's help so far, btw. Lovely bunch!

Well, yes. But I'm saying it's got power and works. I just thinks it's locked. Maybe that's the wire mix up in the loom. Sod it, I'm buying a new loom. Any UK suppliers for less than £170?

The airbag light is now on. OSF window now operates up and down, but not 'single touch' up or down.

Ok, someone please put me out of my misery... 2010 Superb 3T door loom failed at 120k mi. Got the repair kit from the internet. Installed (what a faff). Did I install it correctly? Maybe - maybe not, but... Things that seem ok: OK1) Multimeters reads 12v coming from the red/brown loom wires to the black controller box behind the panel (sat above the driver's winder mech). OK2) The driver's window winds down using the driver's door console*. OK3) Both the main and the tweeter speakers work (I'd go mad if these didn't work and just scrap the car...) OK4) The airbag light doesn't come on, so I presume the side impact senior is happy. OK5) All underside door courtesy lights work when doors open (Driver's door shows 12v when the door latch is open, then when I operate the latch to a close position, it reads 8v) OK6) No fault codes on the MFD or the OBDII reader OK7) The door security led flashes, constantly. Locked or unlocked, IGN on/off. OK8) all fuses in the driver's side panel seem good. Things that are not ok: NOK1) Both O/S doors do not lock NOK2) Whilst the O/S/F window operates using the O/S/F door console, none of the other console features work, including any other windows, the rear window parent lock or mirror adjust, heat or fold-in functions. The windows and mirrors also do not open/close when long pressing the key fob open/close buttons. The OSR console also doesn't operate its own window. BUT, both NS door consoles can operate their own windows. NOK3) The car thinks both O/S doors are permanently closed, as evidenced by the lack of interior lights when entering and the MFD image. I can drive with the driver's door open and it doesn't bing at me. NOK4) The driver's door unlock button in the tweeter doesn't work. The auto-lock (Johannesburg-mode) clicks and locks the doors and boot (and presumably fuel flap) when I set off and drive over ~10-15 kph. If I drop beneath that speed and accelerate again over 10-15, those doors try to lock themselves again. This is constant when pulsing speed in traffic. I presume it thinks the drivers door is closed, but because it doesn't know if it's really locked, it trust to lock all of them all the time when setting off. Which is strange, because the driver door securoty led constantly flashes as if it is locked/alarm armed. The NSF tweeter door lock button locks the NS, boot and fuel flap ok. * In desperation and inspite of it being a 'D' and not a 'C' model, I've just tried installing a salvaged OSF door control module. Ok, I admit I bought the wrong one from as it was from different VAG model, but I gave it a go. Before I plugged this in, both O/S windows couldn't be activated by either OS console. When I plugged this 'D' model in, using the driver's door console, I pressed the NSF window down and the bloody OFS window went down and had 12v. I was happy to see the OSF motor still works and assumed that it was due to the wrong console being installed. So I reinstalled the original module and now the OSF console/window has sprung back into to life! Can anyone please save my sanity?