Darealspoon

I should probably have been a bit clearer. I had new tyres put on the front as they were down to 2mm. At the same time all 4 wheels were checked balanced and 4-point laser aligned. Wouldn't that detect sawtoothing of the rears? Just seems a bit strange that the new wheel bearing made the noise mostly go away except on downhills.

I had the front tyres changed, balanced and laser aligned... Would that not have picked up any issue with wheel/tyres?

It's really hard to describe a noise! Anyway, our skoda superb greenline 3 had a rythmic noise which sounded like it was coming from front right. It sped up and down along with the cars speed, if that makes sense. First thing I had checked was tyres, tracking and balancing... All good. Next took it to our local indy vag specialists. They reckoned it was the wheel bearing so changed it for us, which wasn't exactly cheap... But I don't doubt them when they said it needed doing. We've been going there years and we have a good relationship with them. Now, admittedly the noise is nowhere near as bad/loud and now only seems audible when going downhill... Buut its still there! I'm just wondering whether I should direct them to anything specifically? I'm pretty sure it's not a CV joint, I know what that sounds like, and this noise is more low thuddy than a true knock.

In terms of removing the old unit, the first part of this video shows the process. Just 2 torx screws. Careful removing the cables... Mine were in quite tight and took a bit of teasing to uncouple without damage. For the replacement unit, I messaged one of the Ebay sellers that had a few units for sale, albeit of the wrong part number. I asked if they could keep an eye out for the correct one for me, ending in K not B, sure enough a few weeks later I got a message. £35 delivered, it's in and working perfectly. Good luck 👍

Ah magic, worth the difference in price to risk a 2nd hand unit then and hope the rocker switch is in a better state. Thanks so much for your help Jay 👍

Great! And that bit doesnt require any soldering, that was just for your Led swap?

This is a pic of the K, mine, has that additional yellow wire linking up the middle sensor. Here's the B version with just the red cable going from either side. No other difference I can see, visually, same connectors etc. Are you saying that potentially either will work? I can just take the 3rd sensor from my 'K' one, yellow wires included and it'll plug and play into the 'B' version. If so, great. I assumed maybe the wrong one would cause some sort of error, issue somewhere.

Thanks, sadly I don't solder at all (maybe time to learn) so I was looking to swap the whole unit. Annoyingly, there's several on ebay for between £30-£40, but they are all part number 3T0 947 105-B... Mine is 3T0 947 105-K From what I've worked out, the difference between the k and the b is a third sensor. No K's available anywhere other than Skoda-parts for £150. Still better than local skoda main dealer, £250 😕

Just to update - I've had some moderate success with this, in the sense I know exactly what the problem is now (i think) I dropped the unit down, and if I play with that rocker switch just so, pressure in exactly the right place - the lights work exactly as they should, but you can hear and see it fizzing and sparking across the contact. The metal part the switch contact slides along has a gouge/groove worn in it. So I'm guessing when it's sat in the middle position, it's sort of in mid air rather than contacting the metal. Without the surgically precisoned pressure, it doesn't work at all. I'm going to have a brief chat with an autospark and see if basically he can fix it less than the price of a new unit (£150). All the 2nd hand ones I'm seeing are pretty grotty condition wise. Hope this helps anyone else with similar

Thank you, thats really useful. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get the unit down to have a good look and check for damage. I've see on skodaparts you can buy the whole thing for new £150... Does seem alot but I'd probably go that route (or a scrap one), I'm happy with mechanical diy and parts swapping but electronics/soldering I'm not that familiar with.

Sorry for the double post, but do you know if disconnecting this unit is going to mess up the alarm in anyway? I know it has the motion sensors on it.

Yep, I've tried the former to no avail. Switch works at either extreme... Ie to turn both lights on or off, but not at the central position for coming on with the door. Will have it down when I get chance and follow the process you've suggested and report back 👍

So I picked up our 2015 superb greenline 3 (mk2 face-lift) last night. All good bar one thing, unfortunately there's an issue with the interior lights that I hadn't picked up when viewing it during the day (doh!) The interior ceiling lights don't come on when either opening the doors, unlocking or removing ignition key. They work manually on the individual buttons no problem. Ours is the version with the 3-way rocker switch between the 2 domed lights. Central position being 'door' setting. The doorcard lights, footwell lights, boot and puddle lights all work as expected. So do the 2 pinhole LED's on the ceiling, which I presume are to illuminate the gearstick at night or something? I've seen a few other similar discussions so I've briefly checked the passenger carpet for damp, all good. However, I think this was more an issue on the mark 3's? Can't imagine fuse as the lights are working individually. So what else can I check, look at myself??

That's good to hear gammy, thanks

Thanks for the info. We live quite rurally so even the daily school run is a 45 minute round trip where it gets up to a decent temperature. We also do regular longer motorway journeys. Our last octy was getting 50mpg mostly, that'd creep up to 55+ on longer runs. Hopefully the superb will be at least equivalent or better. Both me and the missus drive pretty reasonably, especially been as the kids are usually in the back. I think they all have dpfs now, no? I wouldn't mess around removing/blanking one in this car tbh. Would consider a remap for improved economy... though on a car with that high mileage, don't know?