Naedhult

Thank you both of you for replying. I apologize for not answering earlier. I lost a bit of motivation when my problems became harder than I hoped and the weather was raining and cold. Since last time I have bought a compression tester! I got: Cylinder 1: 12,6 bar Cylinder 2: 13,1 bar Cylinder 3: 13,2 bar I have looked at the flexible pipe and it is probably still the original but I do not see any black soot and I started the engine, put a stick with a rag in the rear muffler, and put on dishwasher liquid with a brush on and around the flexible pipe but did not got an bubbles. Since previoce attempts to fix the missfires I had a extra first lambda sensor and intake manifold pressure sensor so I changed these again and fitted new spark plugs. I also filled the fuel tank with 50% E85 (ethanol-fuel) and drove to the car inspection. Got CO2500 0,5 (max allowed 0,2). Problem nr. 1 Last weekend I removed the screws for the heat shield for the catalytic converter and found 2 cracks on the exhaust manifold. I think this is my problem. I had a tube of fire proof compound for fireplaces/chimneys and put on the cracks and did a new exhaust test today but got the same resault as last time. Maybe the sealing did not work (I know it is a cheat "repair") or there can be more cracks on the underneth. Solution: Buy a new catalytc converter Problem nr. 2 Battery gets drained during weekend if not disconnected. Thank you Pete! ECU relay sounds like a good guess. I have not done anything yet, must get it passed inspection first. Solution: Investigate Problem nr. 3 Since last time I have also got ABS and ESC light which i must fix to pass inspection. Last winter I got ABS+ESC as soon as it was a little bit slippery outside. Last half year maybe once a week but now it is only off a few meters after i start driving the car. The fuse on the battery looks ok, I guess start with bearing and then ABS sensor? I have fault code rear right. Solution: New wheel bearing and/or ABS sensor Problem nr. 4 The car has been leaking glycol somewhere around the lower radiator hose conection to the radiator for 2 year but it is leaking more and more. Now I fill every third week. use to be less during summer. Solution: Replace radiator and lower radiator hose (bought new parts two years ago but has not replaced them yet) Problem nr. 5 Is not a problem with the car but maybe the biggest problem for me. My right HIP hurts of driving at 80km/h (50Miles/h) 90km (56miles) each day. Have not had any problem with previous cars but with this one it is something that does not fit me. Maybe the short seat/lack support for the thighs which I have improved by adding some bits of wood under the front edge of the seat frame. I am thinging maybe the gas pedal is a little bit to stiff? Solution: Try to make the pedal easier to operate / Install cruise control. Do VAG need to do somehting if I try to fit aftermarket cruie control? Some days I feel like i want to scrap it and buy somehting newer. I get 10000 SEK (727 GBP) from the goverment if I scrap and buy an second hand electric car which had suited my driving well for most journes. But on other days it feels like the car is way too good to be scrapped. Gear box is good, clutch i good. engine is probably still good, rust is ok and it is a very practical car. My tow bar rusted away last year but I fitted a second hand tow bar 5 moths ago.

Hello again. My previouce problem with the car missfiring after have been parked hot summer days is not solved but now I have got more problems. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/507467-p0420-missfire-12-htp/ The car is a Skoda Fabia 1.2 HTP (BME) 64hp 2007 with 383000km/238000 miles. When the car is turned of the thottle body is buzzing for a couple of seconds every second minut. Last Monday when the car had been parked all weekend the battery was drained when I tried to get to work. If I disconnect the contact to the throttle body it is quiet. This week I had an MOT-inspection. Everything was fine except for the CO-level at 2500 rpm. Maximum allowed level is 0,2 and at first the test said 0,4 and the MOT-technician said it use to drop after a little while but it only went higher and higher. We stopped testing at CO 0,8. At idle the emissions was good: CO 0,1 (max allowed 0,3) HC 0 (max allowed 200) Lambda 1,01 (0,97-1,03) I have a new fault code, P2096 (post Catalyst fuel trim system bank 1 too lean). Do I need to replace the throttle body or does anyone got another idea what is wrong with my little car?

Hello again. I have removed and inspect the hose but can not find any cracks or damages. It has been warm and sunny here. The car does not run well after being parked in the sun and the engine still has not got up the running temperature. If I erase the P0420-code it lights again after 100km, But last week I erase the code and was then driving with a trailer all week, total 500km (300 miles) half the time loaded with approximately 800kg (1800 pounds) and I never got the warning light. Even if it was a warm and sunny week and the car was misfiring when I left the hot car park. When I got all my free roof tiles home and started to run without extra weight and trailer the warning light came back again. What can it be that makes the car runs better when the motor must work harder? Catalysator? Thermostat? I do not own any compression tester.

I crawled underneath and the filter is marked 4 bars. I started the car and started bending the hoses in different positions and hoped to hear the motor misfiring but nothing. Could not see any damages to the hoses and the car was running good today, I guess it is the hose on attached photo which is the brake servo vacuum pipe? It will be 10 degrees warmer in the end of this week. I will check again when the temperature is raising against 20 Celsius.

Interesting! I will check tomorrow!

Hello again. 15000km/9300 miles later I still have the same problem. It runs well when it is cold outside. When we had a couple of days with minus degrees the engine warning lights was not lit. If it has been parked in the sun a warm day it misfires a lot. It does not like hot weather and now summer and MOT inspection is coming. I have code P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1. I have tried with a second hand pre-cat lambda sensor and a new engine coolant temperature sensor and a new contact for the temperature sensor because I had a small damage to the cables but it has not made any difference to the misfiring. Any suggestions? What is next step? Catalytic converter? But why is it running OK when cold outside?

Hello Sepulchrave, I changed the pre-cat lambda last year when I got high lambda-value at the inspection. The car started to missfire with the new aftermarket lambda and I changed back to the old one and car was running well again. Replaced the broken end silencer on the exhaust pipe and the lambda-value was ok. Trodo checked the lambda sensor against my VIN-number and it was correct but did not work. Shall i try with a new aftermarket sensor or is it safer to take one from the scrap yard? I can se engine coolant temperatur with my OBD-scanner. I can borrow one IR-thermometer at work and check if it seem accurate.

Hello. I have a Skoda Fabia 1.2 HTP (BME) 64hp 2007 with 331500km/206000 miles. Half year ago I got the engine light and faut code P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1. It runs quite well, a little bit missfiring at normal driving but nothing a normal driver should notice. But if is has been standing in the sun (for example when I am at work) it misfires a lot when I try to get up to speed. My normal driving is 80km/h / 50mph roads to work 90km/55miles /day. If I drive it harder it goes better, with a longer trip with trailer the engine light turned of. The car past the inspection this summer but the CO-level was on the limit and they had to rev the engine high for a while to get the emission at OK level. I have fit new spark plugs, ignition coils and changed oil+filter without improvement. Any suggestions what can be the problem?